TD5 power loss

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Thank you very much for recommending the Foxwell I went for the NT520 giving that you had have great success with it and the NT530 didnt have as much backing.
 
No worries, IMO with up to date software 510/520/530 work all the same for LR, only the casing is different, a firend of mine received a "510 elite" yesterday and it works perfect, they are all versions of the same tool, i recommended the 520 cos it was the only one i tried myself and i saw probems revealed on d2boysclub about the 530 that's all, even if you open the function list for 530 you'll get a PDF for 510
 
Landrover6176 said:
Honestly I was it 2 minds I was reading up on everyone's thoughts and was really not sure haha
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Yeah, it's the first scanner I've ever bought, I knew nothing about them but like SF said it's a case of plug & play really, you have to enter you vehicle model/ eng. type/year from the drop down menus then your away just select what you want to look at engine, g/box, instrument cluster etc. I've cleared all the historic codes on my 04 FL1 & 01 D2 TD5 ( and gladly none have come back :)). I was swayed, a bit, by the fact it did other cars, as we have a Skoda & a Mitsubishi in the family should I need to diagnose anything on them. Hope you get your issue sorted soon.
 
Thank you Andy, I'm hoping to get it sorted soon, only had her 2 weeks and when its drives without the faults its absoulety superb then suddenly drops power .....could a miss-adjusted actuator cause this?

Sorry for my newbie questions.
 
It's ok lower gears higher revs ...but higher gears lowers revs when under load trying to climb slight gradients, hoping this week to get to the bottom of it.
 
I would say it feels like a limp mode effect fuel cut off and pedal to the floor doesn't work only way around it is go from 3rd to 2and build revs when it hits around 3000rpm ahead shoots forward like a bullet haha

It had a new fuel pump new FPR in 2015. So I was kind of comfortable that it wasnt that although that's not a solid ground to go by, fuel filter hasnt been done for couple years by the looks of it.
 
With live data you can see only if it's management or air charge issue, the fuel supply system is not covered by diagnostics ... you keep saying that the pump is only 5 years old, that has absolute ZERO relevance especially if you are not 100% certain that it is genuine. You have to check the pressure at leat with the multimeter method and if you know the filter is old simply replace it ASAP, anyway before starting to scan it.
 
sierrafery said:
... you keep saying that the pump is only 5 years old, that has absolute ZERO relevance especially if you are not 100% certain that it is genuine.
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Hence why I said it doesn't give solid ground to go by, I'm just trouble shooting, replacing a pump which cost £340 new less than 5 years ago would seem to me silly and a very poor manufacturer build, however I was warned prior to buying land rover :D

I come from older BMWs restorations so Land Rover is completely new to me and a learning curve which I am enjoying.

The intermittent part is strange, after getting rid of the EGR is drove so much better and believed I had solved it, drove it for 2 whole days hills and gradients without a problem, then it came back with massive disappointment.

Some said to unplug the MAF which made it worse, I have ordered a multimeter and the Foxwell so hopefully will assist me in some way fingers crossed if not then really will be stuck.

It's still in the garage and hopefully monday will find out more, I miss seeing it parked on my drive.
 
Landrover6176 said:
after getting rid of the EGR is drove so much better and believed I had solved it
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OK, did you check the air filter after EGR removal and cleaned the MAP sensor? if not do that first.

were the EGR solenoids unplugged after EGR removal? if not unplug them as well, on EU 3 modells power loss is quite commonly caused by clogged catalyst too... if that's the case the boost will not rise enough
 
The EGR kit came with Rubber bungs to block up the solenoid pipes, air filter is ok but dusty but nothing extravagant, my inlet manifold was surprisingly clean MAP sensor I took out and it was clean but I gave it a spray and put it back in.

I was thinking of removing the cat in the future I'm not sure if its clogged. Might be me but I definitely feel it's becoming more regular problem, it was happening more now I feel, trouble is I dont feel confident with the Garages diagnosis. Mainly as I havent got a throttle body actuator and the women on the phone said it was expensive so I'm assuming she must have got the part wrong which they recommend to change, shall find out Monday.

Not giving up on it.
 
Could it be a high pressure loss of boost? Possibly a split pipe or leaking jubilee clip? At low levels of boost the pressure is not enough to open the split and dump the pressure, but as soon as you give it the beans it spills all the air. When you get a scanner check the MAF and MAP readings under full throttle - a steep hill allows you to do this safely.
 
Si Click said:
Could it be a high pressure loss of boost? Possibly a split pipe or leaking jubilee clip? At low levels of boost the pressure is not enough to open the split and dump the pressure, but as soon as you give it the beans it spills all the air. When you get a scanner check the MAF and MAP readings under full throttle - a steep hill allows you to do this safely.
Click to expand...

Thank you will give them a check!
 
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