TD5 oil coming out through the coolant reservoir

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Filip

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Surbiton
Hello
I have problem with engine as in subject oil coming out by coolant reservoir disco was in garage and mechanic change oil cooler and water pump car doesn't smoke for any colour powerful and full of (almost) life no any wired sound
Many thanks Filip
 
Filip said:
Hello
I have problem with engine as in subject oil coming out by coolant reservoir disco was in garage and mechanic change oil cooler and water pump car doesn't smoke for any colour powerful and full of (almost) life no any wired sound
Many thanks Filip
Click to expand...
oil coolers are a common place to start ..just be sure its not a cheep oil cooler from the net that was installed ..I have purchased a few and sent them back ..as I lay the oil coolers on a flat surface they where warped meaning when pulling up the banjo bolts means the cooler will be under stress from the get go
 
Thanks this done now something another going wrong Cooling pipes when engine is running are very firm and when car I am checking when engine is cold I'm undoing coolant cap air is coming out and coolan coming to normal level
 
Sorry but there are such things as punctuation, fullstops and comers.

Possibly the head gasket has blown if you are getting pressure in the header tank
 
notenoughtime said:
Sorry but there are such things as punctuation, fullstops and comers.

Possibly the head gasket has blown if you are getting pressure in the header tank
Click to expand...
not every one speaks or types English just saying
he is just noticing that the coolant is still pressurised on a cold engine
unsure how this would be a head gasket issue


I think discodevon mentioned about the header cap
 

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sierrafery said:
See this https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td5-oil-cooler-repair-oil-in-coolant.201097/
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this is a good post mate but he was mainly talking about the orings being baked and how to pressure check


I have been down this road a few times ..I have purchased up to 3 oil coolers from the UK via china sent to Australia via fleebay ..when I lay them on a flat surface or using a straight edge across both oring surfaces there a noticeable warpage issue meaning the cooler its self may be ok but will it seal on the orings ...if it did seal on the orings then this means the cooler will be under stress when the bango fitting where pulled up

..I sent them back many times eventually it come to a stage where my car was off the road for some time and in pieces so I had some spare time and made my own ..this was a few year ago I have never had any issues ..apart from the rest of the vehicle dropping to bits


P6100125_zpsk6y0sslr.JPG
 
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sierrafery said:
IMO that's not a cooler anymore only a bypass
Click to expand...
Agreed....the copper pipe used there is way too short for the conduction of any meaningful heat exchange between the media passing through it and the media outside it.
The whole idea of the cooler design is to create turbulence in the fluid as it passes through it, that way the hot medium dissipates heat to the cooler which in turn conducts the absorbed heat into the coolant surrounding it. As stated, that length of pipe is just gonna serve as a bypass for the oil with little or no turbulence and minimal heat exchange. If you want to do away with the stock cooler design and if you can, you can route the oil from that connection you have made there through hoses to an air-cooled cooler you can mount in the front.....just an idea.
 
sierrafery said:
IMO that's not a cooler anymore only a bypass
Click to expand...
i totally agree but at this stage never had any issues
the reason I did it was that I purchased an oil cooler at a cost of 300 bucks from the net but it was defected and I had sent them back 3 times ..the vehicle was off the road for a couple months at this stage due to the time of postage on both ways

the landrover shop here in perth wanted over $900 + gst for the oil cooler and housing ..they will not sell the oil cooler separate
ps also to use the new housing supplied with the new oil cooler means you also have to purchase a new temp sensor at another cost
the old temp sensor does not fit the new housing as they have modified the hole and threads
some might say you don't have to use the new housing supplyed with the cooler ...but whats the point of purchasing the full kit when only half of its going to get used

my bypass with the copper pipe was ment to be a temp repair to pull me out of the **** until I was to source a oil cooler at a low price as the seller on ebay was having a bad batch issue and I certainly didn't want to pay LR prices at the time

the bypass trick does have its limits don't get wrong
been nearly 3 years since with no ill side affects in Australia climate . ps I also do not do any serious towing if I did I wouldn't of bypassed the cooler and if I did I would smaller pipe and make some sort of loops inside the housing
the copper pipe is still in place like I say its the rest of the vehicle that has issues and my d2 is not worth the money to get her back up to good condition up to now the engine is the only thing that is still good on my d2

so if I find away to bypass and save money on this old D2 I will
 
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ozzyboydeano said:
ps also to use the new housing supplied with the new oil cooler means you also have to purchase a new temp sensor at another cost
the old temp sensor does not fit the new housing as they have modified the hole and threads
Click to expand...
You mean pressure switch dont you? ... afaik there's no temp sensor in the td5's oil cooler
 
Ozzyboy, I really like your "solution"!
A practical way of keeping your vehicle on the road!
Landies may break but at least theres usually a way to get them going again.
mark
 
sierrafery said:
You mean pressure switch dont you? ... afaik there's no temp sensor in the td5's oil cooler
Click to expand...
yes my apologies the pressure switch (its been a while since I have worked in that area as my copper pipe trick is still holding up )
the old pressure switch will not screw into the new housing supplied with the new oil cooler
its just seems a shame that my local LR shop wont sell the oil cooler on its own but I guess they have the monopoly so if one needs a housing only need to purchase the kit and a game that I wont play
my bypass mode cost me few bucks in fittings from Bunnings and I used some old copper pipe from an old air con unit that I have laying around

I do agree its only a bandade fix and if I was doing some heavy towing I would bite the bullet and do the job correctly
but my d2 is just a bush basher and to and from work and once in a blue moon it will tow my 200kg jetski down to my local marina

my other spare car is a TD ford focus this also had oil cooler issues I by passed the oil cooler back in 2006 /2007 and the engine still goes to this day

how ever I have tried bypassing oil cooler on a road train and it works and also it doesn't work
the truck can pull 3 empty trailers all day long and monitoring the engine oil via the on-board computer oil does not reach over 105 degrees but soon as it gets loaded the first few hills the engine may derate on to high of oil temp up to 115 to 125 degrees c
 
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markomate2 said:
Ozzyboy, I really like your "solution"!
A practical way of keeping your vehicle on the road!
Landies may break but at least theres usually a way to get them going again.
mark
Click to expand...
the solution is only a bandade fix ..my D2 does get thrashed and hammered so the oil cooler is last of my issues
but these simple tricks do work ..its not a job that I would like to do on the side of the road ..but it can be done from parts supplied from a local hardware store
 
ifloochies said:
Agreed....the copper pipe used there is way too short for the conduction of any meaningful heat exchange between the media passing through it and the media outside it.
The whole idea of the cooler design is to create turbulence in the fluid as it passes through it, that way the hot medium dissipates heat to the cooler which in turn conducts the absorbed heat into the coolant surrounding it. As state, that length of pipe is just gonna serve as a bypass for the oil with little or no turbulence and minimal heat exchange. If you want to do away with the stock cooler design and if you can, you can route the oil from that connection you have made there through hoses to an air-cooled cooler you can mount in the front.....just an idea.
Click to expand...

I think your getting mixed up about turbulence
the original oil cooler is just a small radiator with cooling fins for more surface area contact... the amount of oil is supplied to the cooler is regulated via thermostat ..and if my memory is right its the same thermostat that controls the oil spinner ...the reason you don't hear the spinner wind down on a cold engine

the reason I used copper pipe...copper is a better conductor for this type of application
up to now no ill side affects even with the extra power from the LPG
as for mounting an external oil cooler it did think about it at he time ... but this means modifying the housing so the oil lines can pass through ....means more of a ball ache other wise why not add in a cooler from an oil gallery else where on the engine ?that is not regulated
 
Hello to all,
after having already changed 2 oil coolers on my Disco TD5 (20 years old), I was inspired by this article and tried to replicate the bypass shown in the figure but using brass fittings pipes with a diameter of 13 mm.
Mechanically everything fits perfectly, but once pipes have been reassembled, the oil warning light is always on.
What do you think it might depend on? ... the only difference would seem to be that in the figure, a smaller copper tube (10mm) was used. Could it be that due to the larger diameter used, the inlet oil pressure becomes too low? thanks for any suggestion
 
I ordered 2 O-rings part #ERR7098 which are green. I believe these go around the bolts that pull the cooler to the housing. Does anyone know the actual part number of the black O-rings that go inside the actual cooler that tend to flatten out over time? Thank you.
The parts diagram shows the part, but no number is listed. FCE37F18-B770-4A7E-A524-8DAAF3F69FC7.pngFCE37F18-B770-4A7E-A524-8DAAF3F69FC7.pngE5CB3BA3-B45A-46A3-ACAA-149827576B19.jpeg
 
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