Disco 2 Td5 non start after deep water

Hello all.
A couple of weeks ago after a day's greenlaning. I took my TD5 15p D2 through a ford to wash some mud off. It was deeper than I expected and I went in a bit quicker than I normally would. She cut out on the way out of the other side and hasn't started since.
So far I have tried.

Fuel pressure check - Showing 4 bar+ on a gauge plumbed into the fuel temp sensor port.
Crank sensor. - replaced with new Lucas one. And replaced the CPS loom while I was at it because it looked a bit ropey.
Multiple fuel purge cycles before and after the pressure check.
Every plug on the engine harness has been removed and cleaned.
Every fuse and relay checked.
Started on easy start but cut out immediately.
Cranks OK and occasionally sounds like it is trying to fire but doesn't catch.
There was a small amount of water in the airbox but a teaspoon or 2 only. The filter was wet damp but the intercooler hoses were dry.

I have a nanocom and the only codes being logged while cranking are. Injector 1,2,3,4,5 Peak Charge Short. I.e same code on all injectors.

Help!! I am at my wits end.

I see from your intro so you have a snorkel, does it work OK? Seeing as how you mentioned water in the airbox and filter.

Have you checked the battery and does it start with a jump start?
It takes more voltage to both crank it and start it than it does to crank it, the ECU will refuse to let it start if it doesn't see enough batt power.
You don't seem to have physically checked for hydrolock.

Stanleysteamer said:

I see from your intro so you have a snorkel, does it work OK? Seeing as how you mentioned water in the airbox and filter.

Have you checked the battery and does it start with a jump start?
It takes more voltage to both crank it and start it than it does to crank it, the ECU will refuse to let it start if it doesn't see enough batt power.
You don't seem to have physically checked for hydrolock.

Click to expand...

Yeah the snorkel works well normally. Have never had water in there before. It was only a tiny bit. Small enough that I soaked it up with a travel sized tissue. That along with the intercooler pipes being dry and the fact that it ran on easy start made me assume that water hadn't got any further. I do realise assumption is the mother of all f ups though. How would you recommend a physical check for hydrolock damage?

I have had the battery on charge overnight between start attempts and have also tried it with a jump pack. On the day it cut out, we did also try a jump off of a D3.

I will see if I can find another battery and try it again tomorrow happy to try anything at this point. It's been 2 weeks of guess work so far.

KingSam said:

Yeah the snorkel works well normally. Have never had water in there before. It was only a tiny bit. Small enough that I soaked it up with a travel sized tissue. That along with the intercooler pipes being dry and the fact that it ran on easy start made me assume that water hadn't got any further. I do realise assumption is the mother of all f ups though. How would you recommend a physical check for hydrolock damage?

I have had the battery on charge overnight between start attempts and have also tried it with a jump pack. On the day it cut out, we did also try a jump off of a D3.

I will see if I can find another battery and try it again tomorrow happy to try anything at this point. It's been 2 weeks of guess work so far.

Click to expand...

Doesn't sound like the batt then TBH. I'm not good with electronix but doubtless @sierrafery will pop on and tell you what the code means. Hopefully.
I suppose the only test for hydrolock would be to try and turn the engine with a spanner on the end of the crank, but if you are managing to crank it over it looks as if you got away with that. Other than that, remove an injector or a glow plug and look inside, boroscope, rag on a stick, etc.
Have you taken the ECM out and opened it up to check for water ingress?
Best of luck mate!

Stanleysteamer said:

Doesn't sound like the batt then TBH. I'm not good with electronix but doubtless @sierrafery will pop on and tell you what the code means. Hopefully.
I suppose the only test for hydrolock would be to try and turn the engine with a spanner on the end of the crank, but if you are managing to crank it over it looks as if you got away with that. Other than that, remove an injector or a glow plug and look inside, boroscope, rag on a stick, etc.
Have you taken the ECM out and opened it up to check for water ingress?
Best of luck mate!

Click to expand...

I just hope it wasn't hydrolocked and I bent something trying to start it! I don't know what's stronger the rods or the starter?

I am off tomorrow so my plan is to spend the day working on it. Going to pull the rocker cover off and look for any signs of damage. And while I am there I will pull the injectors and stick a boroscope in. I brought the ecu in on the first night and left it stood on a sheet of kitchen towel connectors down, but no water came out. Haven't opened it up. Will try that tomorrow as well.

Thanks for the help!

KingSam said:

I just hope it wasn't hydrolocked and I bent something trying to start it! I don't know what's stronger the rods or the starter?

I am off tomorrow so my plan is to spend the day working on it. Going to pull the rocker cover off and look for any signs of damage. And while I am there I will pull the injectors and stick a boroscope in. I brought the ecu in on the first night and left it stood on a sheet of kitchen towel connectors down, but no water came out. Haven't opened it up. Will try that tomorrow as well.

Thanks for the help!

Click to expand...

Take further advice before opening up the ECU, it may well not need it.
I don't think you'll find much in the bores TBH. and if the con rods are bent you won't see it from inside, But if it didn't go "CLANG" I think hydrolock is not that likely.
The codes you read will tell someone, not me, more.
Have you tried googleing the codes for an answer?
I have and found this among other things.

Stanleysteamer said:

Take further advice before opening up the ECU, it may well not need it.
I don't think you'll find much in the bores TBH. and if the con rods are bent you won't see it from inside, But if it didn't go "CLANG" I think hydrolock is not that likely.
The codes you read will tell someone, not me, more.
Have you tried googleing the codes for an answer?
I have and found this among other things.

Td5 misfiring and cutting out problem finally solved!

Back in July my Disco Td5 started misfiring & cutting out, not in the classic oil in loom way, but rather massively. Nanocom would show a scramble of the following fault codes: FAULT 27-01 injector 1 peak charge long (CURRENT) FAULT 27-02 injector 2 peak charge long (CURRENT) FAULT 27-03...

www.landyzone.co.uk

Click to expand...

I did a bit of initial goggling, and it seems the codes I have can show up for a number of reasons. Hadn't seen that post though so I will give it a read in the morning.

Thanks again.

On the water in the air filter box. The D2's air box looks the same as my D1's so the causes could be the same.
So
The box has rubber "grommets" that mount it to the body and mine regularly somehow shake themselves out of them. thereby creating a small passage for water ingress
Then on my box in the left hand corner closest to the motor is a small hole - maybe 1 mm in diameter , that also lets a small amount of water in

Hope you get your start issue sorted though