Is it weird that for the most part I enjoy working on my land rovers?eagerness... that's what we like
Td5 losing puff or is it me?
- Thread starter 109inches
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Shimsteriom
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Nah, its a requirement
brian47
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davidsmith1307
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He'll insist on (and assist with) you fixing it before he remaps it and will tell you exactly what's wrong. Fixed + remapped might give you a bit of cardio trouble!
He checked mine, and found all OK (as I expected).
I will give him a call in the next few days. I've just done a 20 mile drive and decided to do it with the maf unplugged. I noticed very little difference, the pick up from low rpm was slightly better and it's ability to hold on hills was again a little better. I will be trying it on the troublesome hill that knocks 30mph off my approach speed on Sunday. So it could be a maf problem
davidsmith1307
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Buy genuine NOT a cheapy special as they are crap.
Try cleaning the one you have with brake cleaner.
Sadly this is the problem with any modern engine, they can be a real pita to diagnose even for the pros, well worth buying diagnostic kit for your car, may seem dear but will sell well when the car has gone to the scrappy.
Ps MAP is not manifold air pressure, its Manifold Absolute Pressure, there is also a temp sensor in there as well.
Ps MAP is not manifold air pressure, its Manifold Absolute Pressure, there is also a temp sensor in there as well.
it's a pain but at least it's still drivable it's if it was properly broken it would be a real pain
Had a similarish problem with someone elses D2 TD5, was fairly gutless and found the MAP sensor was faulty. But yes, I would also recommend that you get a boost gauge to see exactly whats going on, diagnosed so many issues with my own vehicles just by using a boost gauge.
Normal maximum pressure is 1.2barG. It may also be worth checking the turbo actuator and the wastegate modulator, both of which are easier to diagnose with a pressure gauge on the air inlet line.
Normal maximum pressure is 1.2barG. It may also be worth checking the turbo actuator and the wastegate modulator, both of which are easier to diagnose with a pressure gauge on the air inlet line.
I will just wrap this thread up as I believe I have gotten to the bottom of it.
I removed the wastegate modulator and by passed it this helped, silicone turbo hoses replaced a slight split in an old one.
The weirdest fix was not what would be expected. My engine always seemed to be making a lot of noise but not much movement and split gearbox and transfer box rubber gaiters under the centre console meant I was getting a lot of noise. Which always made the engine seem like it was working extremely hard. After replacing it the interior sound levels are a revelation and because it's so much quieter the power feels more effortless.
It's a bit of a weird conclusion. The other thing that helped was driving it more like a petrol car as the acceleration is adequate above 2000rpm so using the rev range helped a lot too. Mix in the powerful car I was daily driving before all made the disco feel extremely underpowered.
I removed the wastegate modulator and by passed it this helped, silicone turbo hoses replaced a slight split in an old one.
The weirdest fix was not what would be expected. My engine always seemed to be making a lot of noise but not much movement and split gearbox and transfer box rubber gaiters under the centre console meant I was getting a lot of noise. Which always made the engine seem like it was working extremely hard. After replacing it the interior sound levels are a revelation and because it's so much quieter the power feels more effortless.
It's a bit of a weird conclusion. The other thing that helped was driving it more like a petrol car as the acceleration is adequate above 2000rpm so using the rev range helped a lot too. Mix in the powerful car I was daily driving before all made the disco feel extremely underpowered.
Yeah these engines do need a bit more revving before gear changes, otherwise they drop into the rubbish zone and feel like slugs. Even worse with bigger tyres on
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