Disco 2 Td5 immobiliser

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S

spurs

Active Member
Posts
249
Location
potters bar, herts
hi all,

Just a quick one. I'm about to buy a td5 disco. It has a immobiliser fault, but what I want to do it get the immobiliser deactivated. Does anyone know any where round Hertfordshire that can do that and what sort of price will it cost?

Best regards
Kyle
 
Hi Kyle,

What is the immobiliser fault? Make sure you have the EKA code as it may save you a lot of grief.

Turning off the immobiliser system is possible with diagnostics, ie nanocom, if the immobiliser is not activated.

Personally , I would fix the problem and have a fully functional vehicle.

Cheers
 
+1^^^ , an immobiliser missbehaviour is actually a BCU fault or receiver-fob communication issue but if it's BCU fault a tester might not help much in the worst scenario nor the EKA so be cautious with that
 
Hi thanks for the reply,

So the problem with it is, that even with a new battery in its pot luck if the fob will turn the immobiliser of......any ideas?

Kyle
 
OK,

does the little red light work every time on the fob when you press the button?

If you know someone with a nanocom they can check to see if car is receiving the signal from the fob. Plus they can code the car to accept a second hand fob to see if that works better.

But as this is the problem you have, do make sure you get the EKA code. If you have to get it from LR dealer then you normally need proof of ownership. Which you will not have if you are just buying it.

If it is not the RF receiver or the fob, then worse case scenario, it it could be the wiring to the BCU or the BCU itself. In which case you would be looking to change the BCU or repair the wiring if possible. Could be water contamination into the BCU.

Cheers
 
Further to this, I've had this "£$%^&*( issue this evening. I don't know how, but it's rectified itself, at least for now. This has happened twice in the last few months. There's a click-like sound from what sounds like behind the dash, and everything electrical dies stone dead. Hal;f an hour of swapping fob batteries, fuse checking, anything seems to have no effect, and all of a sudden, the goddamn thing comes back to life.

Does anyone make an aftermarket RELIABLE immobiliser to replace this POS from Land Rover, or is the only alternative to ensure reliability to deactivate the damn thing via nanocom?
 
RogerStenning said:
Further to this, I've had this "£$%^&*( issue this evening. I don't know how, but it's rectified itself, at least for now. This has happened twice in the last few months. There's a click-like sound from what sounds like behind the dash, and everything electrical dies stone dead. Hal;f an hour of swapping fob batteries, fuse checking, anything seems to have no effect, and all of a sudden, the goddamn thing comes back to life.

Does anyone make an aftermarket RELIABLE immobiliser to replace this POS from Land Rover, or is the only alternative to ensure reliability to deactivate the damn thing via nanocom?
Click to expand...

So you are replying to a 2 year old post?

Might be better if you post a new one with your particluar probs.

Cheers
 
See if I got you right on this: If I post a new thread, the thread police jump all over me for not researching. If I do what I just did, and DO that checking, and reply to a thread - however old - in the hope of some help, you jump on it.

Out of keen interest, have you anything helpful on this immobiliser issue?
 
RogerStenning said:
...There's a click-like sound from what sounds like behind the dash, and everything electrical dies stone dead.
Click to expand...
As you describe it this is not an immobiliser issue but rather some bad contact on the main feed somewhere.... are the battery clamps well tightened?... the immobiiser shoud bring on the red LED on the dash and disables the starter circuit it doesnt affect other electrics
 
Last edited:
sierrafery said:
As you describe it this is not an immobiliser issue but rather some bad contact on the main feed somewhere.... are the battery clamps well tightened?... the immobiiser shoud bring on the red LED on the dash and disables the starter circuit it doesnt affect other electrics
Click to expand...

a battery connection issue sounds most likely, as this *&^%$£" thing happens when the ignition goes from position II to position III;

From the user manual:
User-Manual said:
Position ‘0’
• Steering locked (if key is removed).
• Most lighting circuits are operational, including: sidelights, headlights and hazard warning lights.

Position ‘I’
• Steering unlocked.
• Clock, radio/cassette player and cigar lighter can now be operated.

Position ‘II’
• All instruments, warning lights and electrical circuits are operational.

Position ‘III’
• Starter motor operates.
Release the key immediately the engine starts (the key will automatically return to position ‘II’). Note that operation of position ‘I’ electrical functions will be interrupted during engine cranking.
Click to expand...

A bad earth, therefore, would be more likely to happen regularly. This fault has only happened twice, both in the last three or four months.

When the electrics went off the last two times, there were no, say again zero quantity, warning lights, this includes a complete lack/absence of red flashing alarm light. Again, this is pointing, as you say, to a battery connection issue.

I'll have a damn good shufti around the engine bay, and see if I can find the culprit.

Thanks for the help :)
 
Yup. It was the blasted battery. Tapering terminal posts, a prevbious owner who over-tightened the connector ring so that it couldn't get to the base of the terminal post, resulted in a loose terminal post ring connector, and presto, intermittent power failures. All sorted thanks to the RAC (OK, I lost my brains and had to call the RAC, too many things to do today before vanishing off to France tomorrow). He found the issue in five minutes flat, of course. D'oh. So, not the immobiliser, but a battery issue. All sorted now, anyhow. Thanks for the replies :)
 
Those stupid connector rings are a piece of sh1te aren't they? Totally sympathize. The old style worked fine, yet another case of a manufacturer finding something that isn't bust and then deciding to fix it. So you now need a hammer and a ring spanner to bash the damn thing down the post with, then you tighten it up on the top. And hope for the best. You may want to replace with old style, I will have to get around to it one day too!
 
As a follow-up, I traipsed all over Normandy over the last week (for the 75th Anniversary of D-Day), and didn't suffer a single electrical problem. Lesson learnt, and I'll be seeking to replace those damned tapering post connectors with parallel ones when I replace the battery.
 
RogerStenning said:
As a follow-up, I traipsed all over Normandy over the last week (for the 75th Anniversary of D-Day), and didn't suffer a single electrical problem. Lesson learnt, and I'll be seeking to replace those damned tapering post connectors with parallel ones when I replace the battery.
Click to expand...
So ironic when you think of the over-reliance of modern cars on blessed electrical power. Remember the days when if your fan belt went you could link the crank pulley to the water-pump pulley with a bit of old anything and drive home taking your sparks from what was left in the battery? Had to get from Chippenham to Bath once like that. Made it too. Good thing it was in daylight! Happy days!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
So ironic when you think of the over-reliance of modern cars on blessed electrical power. Remember the days when if your fan belt went you could link the crank pulley to the water-pump pulley with a bit of old anything and drive home taking your sparks from what was left in the battery? Had to get from Chippenham to Bath once like that. Made it too. Good thing it was in daylight! Happy days!
Click to expand...

LOL - COuldn't even do that when I had my first car in the early '80s - a 1.1L Mk1 Ford Fiesta ;)
 
Drove from south London to Tamworth in my old 300 with nothing at all for a fan belt. Found that the airflow thro the radiator was enough to spin the fan and keep it cool. Drove up the M1 on side lights as it was just getting dusk. Even started the next morning with no ill effects.
 
Nig43 said:
Drove from south London to Tamworth in my old 300 with nothing at all for a fan belt. Found that the airflow thro the radiator was enough to spin the fan and keep it cool. Drove up the M1 on side lights as it was just getting dusk. Even started the next morning with no ill effects.
Click to expand...

So no coolant pump or power steering?

Cheers
 
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