Would you happen to have the part numbers for the Drain and filler plugs too. I'm looking online for them but there seems to be so many different types
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TD5 Gear box oil HELP!
- Thread starter John03
- Start date
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Would you happen to have the part numbers for the Drain and filler plugs too. I'm looking online for them but there seems to be so many different types
Ok from the parts list and diagrams I found on line these are the parts I'm looking for :-
FRC6145 Drain plug with magnet Paddock spares
FTC4056 Drain Plug also listed but does not look like the type that has a washer fitted is that correct?
one of these should be the filler and one the drain but both listed on Paddock spares as drain?
Does anybody know of any other dealers that have express delivery ?
FRC6145 Drain plug with magnet Paddock spares
FTC4056 Drain Plug also listed but does not look like the type that has a washer fitted is that correct?
one of these should be the filler and one the drain but both listed on Paddock spares as drain?
Does anybody know of any other dealers that have express delivery ?
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Hi bud!
Sorry to hear of your troubles, I know how frustrating it can be, i.e. clutch not working properly etc.
Gearbox wise, James Martin is the expert. With mine, I changed the g/box oil and put mtf in, this at first seemed better, but during the winter it seemed gear changes were very stiff, and at the last service I put Morris oil in, atf dexron 2 in. My god, what a difference!! Lovely gear changes and seems quieter. My 90 has done over 120000 miles, so synchros are slightly worn, hence why I feel such a difference. I change g/box and t/box every 8 thousand miles. It should rumble on forever if I keep this up! I've got ep 90 for the tranny box this time, same as the diffs, as its way cheaper than 75w 90 that's recommended! With this many miles on I doubt it much matters what you bung in it, more that you change it often!
In regards to master and slave cylinders....i had the clutch decompress all the way to the floor, and was just able to engage/disengage gear the last 1/2" of travel. I bled the system, everything seemed fine, the master looked new! Until I realised it had been replaced by a britpart item that was just letting a tiny amount of air in. I renewed both slave and master for genuine and I haven't had an issue for two years or 20 thousand miles.....
I'd also recommend buying an "eazy-bleed" kit, takes all the hassle away from it. Hope this helps/reassures somewhat. Good luck mate!
Hi bud!
Sorry to hear of your troubles, I know how frustrating it can be, i.e. clutch not working properly etc.
Gearbox wise, James Martin is the expert. With mine, I changed the g/box oil and put mtf in, this at first seemed better, but during the winter it seemed gear changes were very stiff, and at the last service I put Morris oil in, atf dexron 2 in. My god, what a difference!! Lovely gear changes and seems quieter. My 90 has done over 120000 miles, so synchros are slightly worn, hence why I feel such a difference. I change g/box and t/box every 8 thousand miles. It should rumble on forever if I keep this up! I've got ep 90 for the tranny box this time, same as the diffs, as its way cheaper than 75w 90 that's recommended! With this many miles on I doubt it much matters what you bung in it, more that you change it often!
In regards to master and slave cylinders....i had the clutch decompress all the way to the floor, and was just able to engage/disengage gear the last 1/2" of travel. I bled the system, everything seemed fine, the master looked new! Until I realised it had been replaced by a britpart item that was just letting a tiny amount of air in. I renewed both slave and master for genuine and I haven't had an issue for two years or 20 thousand miles.....
I'd also recommend buying an "eazy-bleed" kit, takes all the hassle away from it. Hope this helps/reassures somewhat. Good luck mate!
Thanks for the reply as for the oil I seem to be getting different answers from all kinds of people after wasting money on the comma stuff I have now purchased Dextron 3 this has been recommended to me. As i could not find anybody who had stock of the 5ltr MTF.
As for the clutch, we have tried n tried to bleed the bloody thing with no joy. We even tried reverse bleeding and pressure bleeding still no joy. Although the clutch now does work pretty well (sometimes have to force it abit) we have decided to replace both the master and slave cylinders a job I'm not looking forward to doing but hey ho on wards n upwards as they say
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The clutch is difficult to bleed because the pipe goes up higher than the level of the master cylinder, so it needs a bit of a boost with pressure bleeder to get it completely clear in my experience. Replacing the master and slave cylinders isn't too bad, it's just fiddly because there is so little room to get spanners or sockets on the nuts. Plus at the slave cylinder end everything is spring loaded, so you need more than two hands to push the cylinder up against the bellhousing, and get the bolts started.
erm yeah we tried pressure bleeding still did not work sorry thought I mentioned that in my last post?
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- Location
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Beg your pardon - misread that. But the overall point is that the pipe goes up higher than the master cylinder so it's not going to be easy!
total understatement mate both my mate n me have sore legs from pumping the clutch too much and clutch oil soaked clothes, good news it we didint find any leaks but even with pressure bleeding both from the slave cylinder and the master cylinder we just cannot bleed the system, and before you ask we even took the bleed screw right out.
I'm actually dying to get the slave cylinder off so I can strip it down and see if there is anything wrong with the bleed end. it is engaging the clutch so it works just cant bleed the little bleeder lol
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wee update got the mtf94 and also brought new filler and drain plugs but despite what the parts department said they were both wrong, too big for my vehicle so old ones back in and staying in until next oil change. As for the clutch new master and slave cylinders fitted and system bleed and working.
The old slave seems to have no hole were the bleed nipple goes in will have a better look once I've cleaned it up but no air comes out it when I tried to blow through the other end. The Master cylinder did have some black oil in it and I also think there may have been some water in with the old clutch fluid not 100% sure but it only looked like a tiny bit.
Anyway gears and clutch all working great now, will update you on the old slave cylinder once I've cleaned it up, I've read stories about cheap after market copies having this problem and I think that is what has been fitted by a previous owner.
The old slave seems to have no hole were the bleed nipple goes in will have a better look once I've cleaned it up but no air comes out it when I tried to blow through the other end. The Master cylinder did have some black oil in it and I also think there may have been some water in with the old clutch fluid not 100% sure but it only looked like a tiny bit.
Anyway gears and clutch all working great now, will update you on the old slave cylinder once I've cleaned it up, I've read stories about cheap after market copies having this problem and I think that is what has been fitted by a previous owner.
