Td5 engine nock and oil level very high!

Five Pots · Jul 3, 2013

Shifty1962 said:
Did you recheck the injector clamp bolts after a few hundred miles? They can be prone to working loose as the copper injector washers settle.

If that's correct, we should ask Ratty to add it to his 'How to' on injector seals.

Shifty1962 · Jul 4, 2013

I've had it happen to me on one injector and seen two other cases on other engines. Using cheap non OEM washers seemed to be the underlying cause. Once the copper washer seal is compromised it can lead to excessive pressure from the cylinder compression causing the O ring to fail which then leaks fuel into the sump via the oil galleries in the head.

v8landyman · Jul 4, 2013

Is it good preventive maintenance to renew the injector seals, or are they better left alone if still original build items? I've never checked the clamp bolts on my 49,500 mile engine, is this also a good idea?

Buckhandle · Jul 4, 2013

www.discovery2.co.uk / TD5 Engine - Injector Seal Replacement

jaygti · Jul 4, 2013

Buckhandle said:
www.discovery2.co.uk / TD5 Engine - Injector Seal Replacement

Good link for future reference , thanks

Shifty1962 · Jul 4, 2013

v8landyman said:
Is it good preventive maintenance to renew the injector seals, or are they better left alone if still original build items? I've never checked the clamp bolts on my 49,500 mile engine, is this also a good idea?

Only renew injector seals if they are leaking. Leave well alone if they are not giving any trouble. Loose clamp bolts would have shown themselves long before now at that mileage. If you are worried take the cam carrier cover off and check them. You can also get a look at the cam lobes while the cover is off and you can inspect or change the injector loom at the same time but once again if you see no sign of oil in the loom connectors leave well alone. You may want to get a new cover gasket as they do go hard and can be a pain to reseal. Don't over tighten the cover bolts if you take it off as they easily strip the threads.

Five Pots · Jul 6, 2013

well, I've just pulled out my injectors and I can't see any sign of combustion gases blowing past the copper washers (on either side). Guess I'll put it back together for now and monitor the oil level closely.

jamesmartin · Jul 6, 2013

its the o rings that will guive diesel in oil if they leak

Five Pots · Jul 9, 2013

So, having re-done my injector seals, and covered about 200 miles, the sump is already filling up, so I guess its time for a new head.

Anyone heard of this guy on 'bay doing head repairs. Obviously far cheaper option to Turner Engineering, but might be worth a shot. LAND ROVER TD5 CYLINDER HEAD SPECIALIST REPAIR | eBay

johnlad · Jul 9, 2013

Five Pots said:
So, having re-done my injector seals, and covered about 200 miles, the sump is already filling up, so I guess its time for a new head.

Anyone heard of this guy on 'bay doing head repairs. Obviously far cheaper option to Turner Engineering, but might be worth a shot. LAND ROVER TD5 CYLINDER HEAD SPECIALIST REPAIR | eBay

i contacted him about welding my head but it was cracked on the exhaust side so they can't get at it to weld them,
but he was honest enough to tell me that and not take my money

Five Pots · Jul 9, 2013

Thanks for that, did you find the crack yourself with dye, or did he test it for you?

johnlad · Jul 9, 2013

Five Pots said:
Thanks for that, did you find the crack yourself with dye, or did he test it for you?

I had it pressure tested at a local machine shop, only £35,
if you need a new head try 1st choice spares, I got a good 2nd hand one of there site for £200+vat with 90 day warranty

Five Pots · Jul 9, 2013

Cheers for the advise. I'll get my head off at the weekend and get it tested. Was it a difficult job to replace the head ? (I've done plenty of heads, but never a TD5) Did you bother changing big end shells?

johnlad · Jul 9, 2013

head is pretty easy, fair amount of stuff to remove first, but its just nuts and bolts, haynes is pretty good to follow, I never changed any bearings, wouldnt think you can get at them from the head, use new head bolts and metal dowels and Elring gasket same thickness as your original one

Five Pots · Jul 9, 2013

johnlad said:
head is pretty easy, fair amount of stuff to remove first, but its just nuts and bolts, haynes is pretty good to follow, I never changed any bearings, wouldnt think you can get at them from the head, use new head bolts and metal dowels and Elring gasket same thickness as your original one

Great. I'd read the Haynes also and figured it wasn't too bad.

and yeah obviously access to bearings is from underneath. Was yours filling up the sump or was there other symptoms?

johnlad · Jul 9, 2013

Five Pots said:
Great. I'd read the Haynes also and figured it wasn't too bad. and yeah obviously access to bearings is from underneath. Was yours filling up the sump or was there other symptoms?

No, mine was pressurizing the coolant system

Five Pots · Jul 9, 2013

Did you make /use a hydraulic fitting to lock the crank in position (as suggested in Haynes) , or can it be done just with a drill bit and 'feel'

johnlad · Jul 9, 2013

i used a kit off ebay, it locks the crank and cam, but a 14mm compression fitting with i think 8mm drill bit works on crank and cam is easy to lock with drill bit

Five Pots · Jul 16, 2013

I took off my cylinder head and now found the crack, barely visible to the eye where the no.1 injector o-ring sits. So I'll be getting it welded up and back up and running soon

mike97 · Jul 27, 2013

Oi Five pots, get off my forklift and come and help me do my disco injector seals

Td5 engine nock and oil level very high!

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