TD5 Engine cuts out

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Iainkb

New Member
Posts
9
I have a TD5 90 with a gremlin I am struggling to get fixed where I live.


had the oil in the red plug issue , changed the injector loom and cleaned the red plug. That has not solved the issue. It starts 1st time and runs but not as smooth as before. It will drive for a short while but then the engine cuts out and an engine management light appears on the dash. It restarts no problem and the em light goes out but will only drive a short distance before it does it again.

Any ideas, have put it into local garage but they couldnt get a signal from the obd port , perhaps using the wrong reader.

Thanks in advance.
 
I thought that, but it has no problem starting after it cuts out. With CPS it has difficulty starting i believe.
 
ive ordered a new MAF sensor, will at least eliminate that if its not sorted. Thanks for the feedback .
 
There's various stuff that goes wrong with TD5s that I've experienced. It sounds like there's some sort of intermittent electrical fault. As well as the accelerator (or 'driver demand') potentiometer going wrong, it's also possible for the wiring loom itself to develop faults. Land Rover seemed to have a batch of very brittle wire with crumbly insulation to use up at the time the TD5 was in production. I've got an aftermarket red plug loom in mine, and the wires are much more supple and the insulation doesn't crack like the factory version. Another problem I've had is a fault in the power supply to the ECU. I wrote about it here: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td5-electronic-faults-any-ideas.390572/#post-5656697 Mine cut out completely, but if there's an intermittent break in the relevant wires it could cut in and out.

Finally, the ECU itself can develop faults. So much so that I carry a spare. It's also handy for chasing faults, just to be able to swap a known good ECU in and see if that makes a difference.
 
its running a bit lumpy also , really annoying. Once i can get a code i should know more. Been faultless for the last 5 years most frustrating.Thanks for the feedback @Brown 👍
 
Another thing I discovered is that if the MAF fails when you're driving at speed it puts the yellow engine light on. When I got home I had a look with the Nanocom and it didn't appear to be flowing any air, which was a giveaway. Interestingly enough this also yielded a whole load of faults listed on the Nanocom, some of which had nothing to do with the MAF, such as the air conditioning. I fitted a new MAF and cleared the faults and they didn't come back, and the air conditioning is still working fine several years later, so there you go.
 
Another thing I discovered is that if the MAF fails when you're driving at speed it puts the yellow engine light on. When I got home I had a look with the Nanocom and it didn't appear to be flowing any air, which was a giveaway. Interestingly enough this also yielded a whole load of faults listed on the Nanocom, some of which had nothing to do with the MAF, such as the air conditioning. I fitted a new MAF and cleared the faults and they didn't come back, and the air conditioning is still working fine several years later, so there you go.
Strange, my failed MAF didn't put the engine light on.
 
It was a dark and stormy night (as Edward Bulwer-Lytton famously wrote) and I was heading westwards on the M54, just where it changes into the A5. The engine hesitated for a moment but then came back on again, complete with yellow light. As it was still running, and the January rain made getting out to investigate rather unattractive, I carried on. Next time I started the engine the yellow light just came on for the usual few seconds with the ignition, and I was able to drive around until I had a suitable opportunity to investigate properly, and the MAF failure seemed like the most likely problem. Mind you, my Land Rover often does things that other people's don't.
 
Ive just traced a cutting out problem with my td5 conversion to a bad earth to the fuel pump, also had oil in the red plug
started out with the engine ticking over with no throttle. Then started cutting out bypassed all relays and found a bad earth
after 2 days by rigging up wires with clips & bypassing connections. Seams to have sorted the cutting out.
 
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