TD5 EGR Removal Question

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bankz5152

bankz5152

Well-Known Member
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South London/North Kent
Finally got my new 110 and been going over things that need done, it still has the EGR fitted so that needs removal asap. Already got the blank and pretty certain how to remove the wretched thing but I noticed there is another pipe that runs from the EGR round the back of the block and into the other side. Can all this pipe work be removed? It looks redundant once the EGR is blanked.

Below the exhaust manifold
 
Thats the oil cooler pipe.

Are you sure it goes to the EGR?

On the D2 it goes to the bottom of the rad , If it is fitted. ( that pipe was deleted in later models)

Cheers
 
Last edited:
Far as I could tell it runs into the EGR?

EGR is part 34, which connects to pipe 37, connects to pipe 6, the rubber pipe 7 and the oil cooler part 8

disco2td5cooling-jpg.53563
 
Part 34 is the EGR cooler.

Some have this others do not.....Mine is a 53 plate D2, It did not have this. Others appear to have this.

But, all you are deleting is the part that conveys the exhaust gas from the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold. leave the coolant pipes alone. :D


The little side box shows what it would look like if the EGR cooler was not there.

Cheers
 
bankz5152 said:
Far as I could tell it runs into the EGR?

EGR is part 34, which connects to pipe 37, connects to pipe 6, the rubber pipe 7 and the oil cooler part 8

disco2td5cooling-jpg.53563
Click to expand...

Why would the EGR valve be listed on a cooling and heating diagram. Think you need to put your glasses on and take another look the EGR cooler is not the EGR valve which is what you are looking to disconnect..
 
Ok thanks for the clarification and the link! That all makes considerably more sense, as if it was redundant surely someone would have removed it by now.

Sorry I wasn't clear I was on about the whole EGR system not just the EGR Valve but the EGR Cooler as well as I would like to remove the lot to tidy up the engine bay.

On the brake servo pipe with the T-Piece can the T-Piece be blocked/blanked as opposed to replaced?
 
bankz5152 said:
Ok thanks for the clarification and the link! That all makes considerably more sense, as if it was redundant surely someone would have removed it by now.

Sorry I wasn't clear I was on about the whole EGR system not just the EGR Valve but the EGR Cooler as well as I would like to remove the lot to tidy up the engine bay.

On the brake servo pipe with the T-Piece can the T-Piece be blocked/blanked as opposed to replaced?
Click to expand...

Did you read the sections in the link about the cac pipes?

Cheers
 
bankz5152 said:
Ok thanks for the clarification and the link! That all makes considerably more sense, as if it was redundant surely someone would have removed it by now.

Sorry I wasn't clear I was on about the whole EGR system not just the EGR Valve but the EGR Cooler as well as I would like to remove the lot to tidy up the engine bay.

On the brake servo pipe with the T-Piece can the T-Piece be blocked/blanked as opposed to replaced?
Click to expand...
You can simply just clog that T piece if you dont want to put a straight pipe there, as about the cooler pipes you can remove the cooler and join the pipes together
 
Remove the modulator too(or at least unplug it) and make sure the plug/s dont touch earth then when you'll need an ignition feed for a relay's coil you have it in the modulator's plug
 
I opted to leave the EGR cooler in place I noticed its sit in front of the viscous but I have removed all the electronic solenoids and the butterfly flaps

 
Hi,
Can I come in on this one? It seems to me e that it's totally unnecessary to do anymore than just disable the "egr" ! This can be done in a number of very simple ways: remove the vacuum supply to the two "egr" actuators and block them, remove the power supply to the two modulators or block off the vacuum supply at the "t" joint on the vacuum pipe leading to the brake servo.
I personally would not like to "mess" with any of the water plumbing! I'm now rather of the opinion that the removal of the "egr" on my 04 Disco lead to my problems. The water return from the oil cooler had been blocked off! As I've said before I think that a "troop of monkeys" played on this engine!
When it's so simple to disable the "egr", I'm amazed that so many companies make and supply kits for the job.
While on the subject of the "egr" , does anyone know when its actually "activated"? I presume that the two actuators are operating independently! Is it perhaps that the butterfly is shut off on overrun to help slow the engine down. When I have the time I'll rig up two lights and try to see.
 
gjmac said:
I personally would not like to "mess" with any of the water plumbing! I'm now rather of the opinion that the removal of the "egr" on my 04 Disco lead to my problems. The water return from the oil cooler had been blocked off! As I've said before I think that a "troop of monkeys" played on this engine!
Click to expand...

You may find that return pipe was blocked off by the "Monkeys" at Landrover, It was a change they did on later production
vehicles, Just used a black rubber bung ( no pipe) but they left the hard pipe in behind the engine bay...:rolleyes:. My 53 plate is the same.
 
gjmac said:
I don't think that even " Land Rover monkeys" would use a threaded bolt and a jubilee clip!
Click to expand...

The blanks ( as well as the pipes ) do fail over time, it is quite common for them to fail over time, It may be the PO had a leak and used the bolt and jubilee as an expedited fix. The proper blank is very expensive , approx £40 for some unknown reason.

Cheers
 
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