td5 disco overheating.

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landmark

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Hampshire
Hi all, my mates had a reel spell of bad luck and i want to try and help him. Well im asking if anyone can shed any info on diagnosis, as this weekend i want to check every thing. Basically his td5 engine started to leak water into oil, engine was scrapped and replacement obtained, replacement engine from td5 defender was great for about 3 hours and then starrted to over heat. Radiator was red hot one side and stone cold on actual rad. He was told by fitter , that the heater matrix was clogged and they attempted to clear with chemicals. Hes then brought new radiator,thermostat and now he's still got a car thats not working well runs then overheats. I think i would put my money on head or head gasket, but before i take him down this road has anyone got any ideas. To rule out heater i figured i could just dissconect heater hoses and link together thus bypassing matrix.
 
Basically he not mechanical at all and he just does what hes' advised by his resident fitter. I think he said he was told because of the water in oil situation, the pistons and bores got badly scored.
 
I do have a nano evo and have plugged in, but it does not show any things wrong other than a transmission fault and maf sensor although maf is working.
 
remove the bleed nipple then rev it above 1500, it must push out hard the coolant then...if not the coolant has no flow which means that the pump doesnt work or there is a lock somewhere...and yes you can bypass the matrix by linking the pipes if you want.
 
Last edited:
An update. Td5 engine has new waterpump, new radiator, new thermostat. Engine runs lovely and may do for sone time then heater goes cold, engine overheats and it jumps into safe mode. Any ideas anyone. Thinking could be blocked heater but why is it ok for so long. Once i replaced all of above i ran engine for well over an heur and nanocome showed temperature 83 rising to 87 but could not get higher. Strangely engine is not using any water so not convinced head problems. Please please any help welcomed im stumped.
 
Still sounds like air in the system to me. It may also be a dodgy temp sensor that just thinks the engine is overheating and flips the ECU to limp when actually everything perfectly fine. Only thing is it does not explain why the heater suddenly goes cold where air in the system does. Check the connector and wiring but as they are not that expensive I'd also change the water temp sensor if everything else has already been changed.
 
Mmm cheers will do. I also noticed a girgling sound within cab coming from heater area. Although this was when everthing was good and when i shut down. Ill do sensor as you said, there two on this engine i think isnt there? Also do you thing its worth bypassing heater. Original engine was messy failure apparrantly and just wondered if the heater could in someway be blocked with oil or something. Really strange this though, the car has been driving and sat in traffic with no probs then out of the blue heater goes stone cold, followed by souring temp gauge and then safe mode followed by a phone call to me.lol
 
Mate drove home in limp mode and i have put my nanocom on and got fault code 16,2 high speed crank sensor cleared fault but car defo wants to over heat.
 
IMO first of all bleed the system WELL, with tank raised above bleed nipple and wait untill no bubbles are coming out near the partially unscrewed bleed nipple at revs above 1500, that's very important... and make sure the tank's cap is well tightened after the bleeding
 
Tried bleeding, as you suggested and yes there was air in system. However seemed near on impossible to get all out. Many bubbles were evident around patially loosend bleed nipple. Will try by passing the heater matrix, but weather closed in so will do this later. Oh i hope its not head gasket or worse still the head. Worth noting, just air pockets came out of bleed nipple followed by lots of tiny bubbles or froth.
 
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