Td5 disco 2 wouldn't start

neilly · Sep 28, 2019

Stanleysteamer said:
Ok, so my key, with the cicuitboard in the fob, works as all keys should. It starts no matter how long between unlocking and starting.
My other key, with the circuit board in another fob cover, but on the same ring, only starts after 30 seconds if I press the unlock button again.
This is the same as OP's.
So, coincidentally it looks as if we have the same or similar problems, but with the same temporary solution.
As one of my keys works but the other doesn't I am now thinking that the problem lies with one of the circuit boards. Is this the resonator, as I am assuming the passive coil is around the ignition switch?
I could, although I'd rather not, take the circuitboard back out of its new fob and put it back in the fob with the key that starts the car and see if it behaves as it does in the new fob cover.
Thanks for clarifying that the metal part of the key has nothing to do with this.
This is all both very interesting and boring at the same time. Does that make sense to you?

Look at the buying / alarm sticky in the disco section there is a picture of the circuit boards.

Cheers

anitarrc · Sep 28, 2019

My Disco 2 has no working remote or transducer or whatever.
All you need is disable all the immobilise and alarm options and know your EKA.
Just saying.
The luxury version was worth 500 colones and 2 beers

neilly · Sep 28, 2019

anitarrc said:
All you need is disable all the immobilise and alarm options and know your EKA.

If you disable your Alarm and immobiliser , you do not even need your EKA code.

Cheers

sierrafery · Sep 28, 2019

the remobilisation coil creates an electromagnetic field which should ''excite" the fob to transmit a signal to the RF receiver, maybe there are some blind spots within that field so it's important for the fob to catch the wave so try somehow to keep the fob as close to it's normal position and try then... if this fails try to put new battery in the fob cos it's possible that the passive remobilisation function to need more power than the unlock command... strange anyway

sierrafery · Sep 28, 2019

neilly said:
If you disable your Alarm and immobiliser , you do not even need your EKA code.

Cheers

Ditto

anitarrc · Sep 28, 2019

In principle you are right. But I had two cases when the bcu suffered from Alzheimer's and I needed the EKA. My Disco is a daily transport so it is not going to happen to me.. well

.
It never is a bad idea to know it

neilly · Sep 28, 2019

anitarrc said:
It never is a bad idea to know it

Even better, change it to a number that is easy to remember and input.

Cheers

Millertime_9 · Sep 29, 2019

Haha what have I started..!!

To update...

Transplanted my circuit board into a new key fob casing, along with my original blade. Changed the battery too.
Had my car battery tested and it was "good".

Car has been fine since yesterday but got a feeling I will be back on this thread...

Ideally i would like my old central locking system complete and ditch this after market thing, i have a feeling this was done when the car had original electrical problems which sierra will remember all too well. !

Easiest option might be disabling the alarm and immobiliser altogether

Is it the nanocom specifically you need or any computer at all?

Si Click · Sep 29, 2019

neilly said:
Even better, change it to a number that is easy to remember and input.

And then write it in the owners manual in big letters so the next owner has a sporting chance.

Si Click · Sep 29, 2019

Millertime_9 said:
Easiest option might be disabling the alarm and immobiliser altogether
Is it the nanocom specifically you need or any computer at all?

A Hawkeye will do it as well, not sure about the Lynx, Foxwell NT930 or iCarsoft 930, but it needs a LR specific tool.

anitarrc · Sep 29, 2019

Icar... No
All rovacom(blackbox, nanocom) products yes
Hawkeye Pro or total yes
Fitch the aftermarket thing, it only causes conflicts.
Get a BCU of fleabay if you don't trust yours.
I have always 2 sitting here, preprogrammed v8 or diesel with immo off.
You still have to match engine ECU and BCU. I strongly recommend Rovacom in case of a V8. Td5 can be done with a Hawkeye

Stanleysteamer · Sep 30, 2019

Glad you have a temporary workaround which seems to be working for the moment.
Almost as bad as my V8 D1 which can only be opened with the remote. The key won't open the door, although it will turn the ignition and starter!
Only just opens the filler flap!
Mechanical not electrical.
(Somewhere there is a school of bodging.)

Stanleysteamer · Sep 30, 2019

Note you said "changed the blade" How did you do that? I have been tempted to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull, but was too chicken. Is that really all it takes? Or is there a more sensible and sensitive way to do it?
Or did you have the blade cut?

Shimsteriom · Sep 30, 2019

Stanleysteamer said:
Note you said "changed the blade" How did you do that? I have been tempted to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull, but was too chicken. Is that really all it takes? Or is there a more sensible and sensitive way to do it?
Or did you have the blade cut?

Don't be scared, just grab hold of it with some pliers and give it a good hard tug

Stanleysteamer · Sep 30, 2019

TA!!!

Millertime_9 · Sep 30, 2019

Stanleysteamer said:
Note you said "changed the blade" How did you do that? I have been tempted to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull, but was too chicken. Is that really all it takes? Or is there a more sensible and sensitive way to do it?
Or did you have the blade cut?

The einstein glued mine in, so didnt work using pliers, had to be destroyed!

Stanleysteamer · Sep 30, 2019

Millertime_9 said:
The einstein glued mine in, so didnt work using pliers, had to be destroyed!

So then you cut all the carp away from the end of the blade and fiddled around until it went in? Or did you?

Spong · Oct 1, 2019

Stanleysteamer said:
So then you cut all the carp away from the end of the blade and fiddled around until it went in? Or did you?

The plastic on the end is molded on to the key part and should transfer from one fob to the next. As @Shimsteriom says, it's a git to get off and click back in to the new one. Mine is secure but a bit wobbly in the new fob.

Rangie Disco Sportsman · Oct 2, 2019

Millertime_9 said:
Is it weird how sometimes the alarm light stays on and its immobilized yet sometimes the m and s light flashes???

Does that not signify something ulterior at fault?

Seem to recall something identical or very similar symptom wise to this with a someone's Disco 2 and it was slightly loose battery terminals. I remember it because battery and alternator voltage seemed to be all good so dismissed it originally. You would think if it was too loose there would have been other obvious symptoms but never were any.
Disconnecting and reconnecting the too battery quickly I seem to think does cause the alarm to go off and fob to stop working and solution is hard battery reset (remove terminal wires and touch together to discharge capacitors in electronics and wipe their memory)

Stanleysteamer · Oct 2, 2019

Spong said:
The plastic on the end is molded on to the key part and should transfer from one fob to the next. As @Shimsteriom says, it's a git to get off and click back in to the new one. Mine is secure but a bit wobbly in the new fob.

Last thing I want is "a bit wobbly in the fob", sounds as if it only goes in and out once! I already have enough of a problem as the key will not always turn in te ignition as I think either the key of the wafers in the lock is/are wearing out. I'll live with mine as it/they are for the moment!

Td5 disco 2 wouldn't start

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