TD5 Defender Limp Mode/Power Loss/Engine Warning Light

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bankz5152

bankz5152

Well-Known Member
Posts
9,339
Location
South London/North Kent
Hey Chaps,

Read a couple threads on similar issues but nothing definitive.

'02 Defender TD5 73K. Replaced the injector harness about 1000 miles ago.

Just serviced and De-EGR'd, running perfectly for couple hundred miles since driving around this morning and the engine warning light came on, total loss of power. Pulled over, turned it off, re-started lights goes out drives fine for a little the the same thing happens.

In the space of about 2 miles I had to re-start around 10 times everytime with the same issue. Total powerloss + amber engine warning light, engine goes into limp mode.

Last few times was very rough running, intermitant power, jumpy sounding like its about to stall then alright for a few mins then power loss + light/limp mode.

Few times put your foot down a little and theres very little power, almost none, then after 10/20 seconds all power kicks in and it runs fine. Then goes into limp mode'

Anyone got any ideas?

Trying to track someone down with a nanocom...
 
Right so been checking various possible culprits.

MAP Sensor - Fine - Cleaned it anyway
MAF Sensor - Almost spotless
Injector Harness - Some oil in one injector (closest to the bulkhead) otherwise clean.
Fuel Filter - New one just been fitted so clean

Havnt checked the ECU yet but pretty certain theres no oil in that.


After doing all of the above drove it round the block and it appears fine, drove normally, none of the symptoms listed above. So I may have solved it.

None the less I would like to know what caused it..

Anyone got diagnostics North Kent/South London?
 
So I may have solved it.
Click to expand...

Not sure I'd have said that but the other items you should check is the vacuum tube to the turbo actuator, the turbo actuator, the waste gate operation (attached to said actuator) and the little solenoid gizmo and associated wiring that delivers the vacuum to open said actuator - near the front by the 'AC' compressor mount.

Over pressure is a guaranteed instant limp mode.

We should do a standard checklist as a sticky for limp mode on TD5's ...
 
BenKenobi said:
Not sure I'd have said that but the other items you should check is the vacuum tube to the turbo actuator, the turbo actuator, the waste gate operation (attached to said actuator) and the little solenoid gizmo and associated wiring that delivers the vacuum to open said actuator - near the front by the 'AC' compressor mount.

Over pressure is a guaranteed instant limp mode.

We should do a standard checklist as a sticky for limp mode on TD5's ...
Click to expand...

overboost on a td5 doesn't usually bring on the management light.
 
And before I switched mine over to VGT mine was easy to move - well easy in that I didn't need a pipe wrench and could do it with fingers. It is probably carboned up.

I confess I hadn't spotted the engine light bit but I thought that came on with airflow issues any how? either way if the light does come on there should be a fault recorded in the ECU that says why.

WD40 isn't a lubricant (despite many using it as such) it is a water dispersant - you'd be better off with some ZX-54 (made by Arrow).
 
BenKenobi said:
And before I switched mine over to VGT mine was easy to move - well easy in that I didn't need a pipe wrench and could do it with fingers. It is probably carboned up.

I confess I hadn't spotted the engine light bit but I thought that came on with airflow issues any how? either way if the light does come on there should be a fault recorded in the ECU that says why.

WD40 isn't a lubricant (despite many using it as such) it is a water dispersant - you'd be better off with some ZX-54 (made by Arrow).
Click to expand...

WD-40 is a lubricant as listed with the manufacture in its recommended uses. as well as 10,000 others uses :rolleyes:
 
I realise what they say but it really isn't very good at it - for penetrating and lubricating there are much better products.

Get yourself a bottle of ZX-54 or Mouse Milk and you'll see the difference.

The only way to free it up is a Turbo off and clean it all up inside job - depends how bad it is - I'd try it without the actuator attached first to see just how stiff it really is.
 
BenKenobi said:
I realise what they say but it really isn't very good at it - for penetrating and lubricating there are much better products.

Get yourself a bottle of ZX-54 or Mouse Milk and you'll see the difference.

The only way to free it up is a Turbo off and clean it all up inside job - depends how bad it is - I'd try it without the actuator attached first to see just how stiff it really is.
Click to expand...

thought that ZX54 was a electrical cleaner/lube not a mechanical cleaner/lube
 
You're way too far from me or I'd invite you over but I'm sure there must be somebody in your neck of the woods with Nanocom or similar ...

It may be worth finding an independant LR specialist and ask them to run a diagnostic for you before you blow time and money fixing what ain't broke the cost shouldn't be too high £20 or so (unlike a LR dealers £50+).

If the engine light has come on the reason should be recorded.
 
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