Td5 centrifugal filter spin-down whine

Hey all

While doing my first service to the Defender last night I noticed that the centrifugal filter was a little tight to get on to the shaft it sits and spins on. It seemed to spin somewhat more freely when it was right at the bottom and seated properly though.

After swapping the other filter as well and replacing all the oil, I noticed that when I shut down there was no familiar spin-down whine of the filter any more. It was silent. The old one made a noise like a vacuum cleaner being turned off.

Should I be worried or is this what I want...i.e. was the noise that the old filter made due to the sintered bronze bearings being worn? Do we replace the filter because of this under normal circumstances (along with the fact that it has collected its fair share of particles from the oil). Do they make noise as they fill up with junk?

I'm just a tad worried that the replacement (from Four Wheel Drives - non genuine) might have bound up on the shaft and might not be spinning at all....

Cheers
Chris

That's a bit like - 'does the fridge light really go out when you shut the door' - trying to work out if it's actually spinning.

In situ there is not much movement available up and down (with cover on), so long as it span freely at all positions within it's vertical range, I wouldn't worry, otherwise, remove it and check for a lip on the rotor shaft or phosphur bronze bearing - it's possible the pattern 1 is slightly taller or has longer bearings. Having just done mine it still whines down but much much quieter than the old one did.

OK - I went and bought a genuine Land Rover item from a dealer.

I've just swapped them and now all is fine - I get it spinning up and you can hear it spin down (albeit a bit more quietly in new oil). The problem was that the non-genuine rotor's sintered bronze bearings were just ever-so-little too tight. It was not spinning up to the correct revs at all. The genuine artical spins extremely easily by hand, like it should.

The supplier has apologised and will be having it and the rest of the batch checked.

At least no damage done! I guess it pays to know what noises your car usually makes

Cheers
Chris

sorry for bringing back up an old thread.

i'm also a little concerned as a few ago my local indie did an oil and centrifugal filter change as well as a number of things.

I too can no longer here the filter spinning down after shut off.

For piece of mind after reading this, id like to buy a genuine one and swap them. Can this be done without changing the oil, as its realtively new oil.

Thanks for advice

Adsey

adseybear said:

sorry for bringing back up an old thread.

i'm also a little concerned as a few ago my local indie did an oil and centrifugal filter change as well as a number of things.

I too can no longer here the filter spinning down after shut off.

For piece of mind after reading this, id like to buy a genuine one and swap them. Can this be done without changing the oil, as its realtively new oil.

Thanks for advice

Adsey

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YES.

Let the engine stop, and let it sit for a while to drain the oil down a bit.

Take out the two screws that hold the lid over the centrifuge.
Prise the lid off carefully with a screwdriver - they even mark where you do this!
Lift off the centrifuge bowl, turn it over to stop drips.
Place a new centrifuge bowl over the shaft, and check it is free to spin with no drag whatever.
Check the rubber ring gasket in the lid. If it looks perfect, leave it alone. If you feel tremendously self-righteous you might fit the new rubber ring seal that came with the centrifuge.

Clean the top of the casing where it fits, and the underside of the lid. Make sure the rubber ring is in place. Put a little clean oil on the top of the casing (stops it being stuck next time in 30,000 miles) sit the lid on, and retighten the screws. Job done.

This job will take half an hour easy.

Now tear the old centrifuge apart (they are very tough!) and see what's inside it that it has taken out of your engine oil..

CharlesY

Thanks for the tips charlsey.

Lid came off nice and easlily thankfully, probably cos it was off 2000miles ago for the oil change.

And now i hear it spinning down when i turn the engine off. The old one probably worked, (I'll take a hacksaw to it soon and find out), but I have some piece of mind now.

Note to self: Use genuine oil filters in future.

Well done!

If it was TWO thousand miles not TWENTY thousand (only a 0 of a difference!) you will not find much inside.

Try one at 30 or 40,000 miles. Impressive.
These things work!

CharlesY

now you've got me a little confuzzled, because aren't the centrifugal filters meant to be changed every 12000miles, along with the oil?????

on the schedule - Centrifuge rotor is listed as every 12000 miles

For what they cost I'd change them with the oil.

Shifty1962 said:

For what they cost I'd change them with the oil.

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They say every 12 months / 12,000 miles, but as you say, what the hell?

Throwing one of those away is taking a potful of nasty crap and hard jaggy bits out of your engine lubrication system.

That has to be a good idea.

CharlesY

CharlesY said:

They say every 12 months / 12,000 miles, but as you say, what the hell?

Throwing one of those away is taking a potful of nasty crap and hard jaggy bits out of your engine lubrication system.

That has to be a good idea.

CharlesY

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thats why you had me confused, because you said wait and see after 20000miles.

oh, and shifty, very very nice looking 90 you have there. Td5 isnt it?

adseybear said:

oh, and shifty, very very nice looking 90 you have there. Td5 isnt it?

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Cheers adseybear. Yup. 1998 TD5 CSW. Hanibal Roof rack and wheels came with it when I bought it.
Looks a bit different now I've had it a while and its cost me having to do the cyl head. If I knew then what I know now about the TD5 lump I'd have got it £2k cheaper. :doh:

your lucky then, mine came with rusty steel wheels, and a rusty horrible roofrack.

Off with the roofrack, some second hand freestyles BFG Mud's, and a good clean and she looks like new.

Out of interest, what did you need to do with your cylinder head, and what mileage is it on.

adseybear said:

your lucky then, mine came with rusty steel wheels, and a rusty horrible roofrack.

Off with the roofrack, some second hand freestyles BFG Mud's, and a good clean and she looks like new.

Out of interest, what did you need to do with your cylinder head, and what mileage is it on.

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Diesel in the oil. Toasted the turbo. Cyl head was cracked and leaking fuel into oil but took me a while to suss it out.
Its now got 110k miles but was 97K when I bought it.
Hopefully it wont cost me for a while cos my work is a bit thin on the ground at the moment.

adseybear said:

your lucky then, mine came with rusty steel wheels, and a rusty horrible roofrack.

Off with the roofrack, some second hand freestyles BFG Mud's, and a good clean and she looks like new.

Out of interest, what did you need to do with your cylinder head, and what mileage is it on.

Click to expand...

BTW I live just outside of Woking so we should get together for a beer or three?

Shifty1962 said:

Hopefully it wont cost me for a while cos my work is a bit thin on the ground at the moment.

Click to expand...

What is your line of work?
Maybe there's people here need your services?

CharlesY

CharlesY said:

What is your line of work?
Maybe there's people here need your services?

CharlesY

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My "main" job is teaching advanced driving techniques such as, 4x4, sand dune, desert, and ice, as well as close protection and evasive driving stuff to the oil industry security staff. I work (when work is on) in some wild and wonderful places such as Iraq, Afghanistan, Syria (got arrested for spying), Algeria, Libya, Congo, Chad, Tanzania, South Africa, Egypt, UAE, Oman, Saudi, Nigeria, Gabon, Norway, Madagascar, etc. with many more to mention. Basically wherever the oil is to be found. The money is good but it's not a nine to five job and just lately it aint been that regular. If anyone is interested you can have a look at the website of the agency I work for www.exlogs.com to see what we do.

When I'm between deployments I'm a qualified tree surgeon and a professional chimney sweep to earn beer tokens.

A mixed bag but I would not swap my experiences for anything. My passports visas are a whose who of the world and my carbon footprint is mahoosive. I've met some lovely friends, and some not so lovely enemies in my travels with hopefully many more to come.

With regards to Centrifugal filters change intervals, 12,000 miles is probably a sensible approach with the sealed types. I know that when the fail on big trucks, it can drop the oil pressure... not a good thing.

If you use 'rolls royce' type (with removable rotor cap), they are good for 100's of 000s of miles. You simply undo the rotor cap, clean out the contamination, put it back together and off you go. They typically also have a cut off valve for when pressure is insufficient, which is a protection!

The thing I'd like to know is how these are configured on the LR? I am trying to retro fit one to a Landcruiser 100 series and not sure where to tap into the pressure from the oil pump and where to feed the oil back from the CF discharge. Any pictures would be great!