Disco 2 TD5 Auto gearbox issues

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
leeorglory

leeorglory

Member
Posts
58
Location
Leeds
Hi all,

This weekend (just gone) I finally got around to fitting a rebuilt auto gearbox to my TD5. The box was purchased from Ashcroft Transmissions, and everything went back together surprisingly easy. However, When it came time to fill the box with fluid it only took 3 litres in total (with the engine running) before fluid started to pour back out of the fill hole, I was under the impression that it needed 5 litres and that at least 3 of these were to be put in while the engine was running, so I was a little worried when it started spitting the fluid back out after only 3. I was also a little worried when I found that even with the new box I am still not getting drive to the wheels, so I was wondering if anyone might have an idea as to why this might be?

When putting the box in I was careful to check the clearances and everything and the torque converter is bolted tightly to the flex plate but something is stopping drive from getting to the wheels.

Another issue I am struggling with is that the shifter and the dash as showing different things, when the shifter is in park the dash clearly shows P which is correct but then there is one click and then another before it shows R then the next click down does not show N but if you pull the shifter ever so slightly towards D (but don't let it click it then shows N on the dash, and you don't see D until you're in one of the low range gears ( I can't remember which) Does anyone know what might be causing this?

Any help on these issues is much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 
leeorglory said:
Hi all,

This weekend (just gone) I finally got around to fitting a rebuilt auto gearbox to my TD5. The box was purchased from Ashcroft Transmissions, and everything went back together surprisingly easy. However, When it came time to fill the box with fluid it only took 3 litres in total (with the engine running) before fluid started to pour back out of the fill hole, I was under the impression that it needed 5 litres and that at least 3 of these were to be put in while the engine was running, so I was a little worried when it started spitting the fluid back out after only 3. I was also a little worried when I found that even with the new box I am still not getting drive to the wheels, so I was wondering if anyone might have an idea as to why this might be?

When putting the box in I was careful to check the clearances and everything and the torque converter is bolted tightly to the flex plate but something is stopping drive from getting to the wheels.

Another issue I am struggling with is that the shifter and the dash as showing different things, when the shifter is in park the dash clearly shows P which is correct but then there is one click and then another before it shows R then the next click down does not show N but if you pull the shifter ever so slightly towards D (but don't let it click it then shows N on the dash, and you don't see D until you're in one of the low range gears ( I can't remember which) Does anyone know what might be causing this?

Any help on these issues is much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
presumably you fitted torque convertor in the box before fitting both to engine
selector cable and or xyz switch need adjusting
 
jamesmartin said:
presumably you fitted torque convertor in the box before fitting both to engine
selector cable and or xyz switch need adjusting
Click to expand...

Yeah the box came with the torque converter already fitted in the box and held in place with a bolt on bracket that I removed just before mating the box to the engine. (I did check that the clearances were correct before hand).

Ah okay I’ll have a look at how I go about adjusting the xyz switch.
 
leeorglory said:
Yeah the box came with the torque converter already fitted in the box and held in place with a bolt on bracket that I removed just before mating the box to the engine. (I did check that the clearances were correct before hand).

Ah okay I’ll have a look at how I go about adjusting the xyz switch.
Click to expand...
loosen the cable nut were it joins the box lever,put cab lever in p and push box lever fully forward till its in p tighten the nut and check it goes from p to 1 loosen xyz switch screws and adjust it till dash corresponds to lever
 
jamesmartin said:
loosen the cable nut were it joins the box lever,put cab lever in p and push box lever fully forward till its in p tighten the nut and check it goes from p to 1 loosen xyz switch screws and adjust it till dash corresponds to lever
Click to expand...
Nice one thanks man!

All I need to do now if figure out why I have zero drive
 
Make sure to have someone shift from park to 1st holding it in gear for a few seconds as you fill it.. this usually sucks up loads, just need to get the filler plug back in before it starts to come back out.
 
Jamiegreen said:
Make sure to have someone shift from park to 1st holding it in gear for a few seconds as you fill it.. this usually sucks up loads, just need to get the filler plug back in before it starts to come back out.
Click to expand...
Yeah this is what I was doing however it didn't seem to be sucking anything up.
 
Smutty said:
Is the transfer box in neutral?
Click to expand...
I'm hoping this is the case, however, I felt like I was about to break the range shifter when I was trying to get it in... a friend who's been around Land Rovers for a while is hopefully coming round tonight to help me check this though and make sure there's nothing wrong with the transfer box.
 
jamesmartin said:
if you fill with engine running, then let it stand till it stops running out, switch engine off and it should start running out again if pump is been driven
Click to expand...
So I tried this last night and it looks like the pump isn't running for some reason, it isn't taking any fluid in, it just comes straight back out. I took the inspection plate off of the bell housing and I can see the flex plate and torque converter spinning, so in theory, I'm guessing the pump is being driven? And when I put the gearbox on I checked that the converter moved freely before bolting it to the flex plate, so is there anything I might have missed that would cause the oil pump to not work?

Also, a friend and I spent a lot of time last night messing around with the XYZ switch only to find that the innards were broken, so I was wondering (since I don't have enough posts to post in the classifieds) does anyone have a spare (working) XYZ switch? That I could buy? Or does anyone know of a reputable source?

Thanks
 
leeorglory said:
So I tried this last night and it looks like the pump isn't running for some reason, it isn't taking any fluid in, it just comes straight back out. I took the inspection plate off of the bell housing and I can see the flex plate and torque converter spinning, so in theory, I'm guessing the pump is being driven? And when I put the gearbox on I checked that the converter moved freely before bolting it to the flex plate, so is there anything I might have missed that would cause the oil pump to not work?

Also, a friend and I spent a lot of time last night messing around with the XYZ switch only to find that the innards were broken, so I was wondering (since I don't have enough posts to post in the classifieds) does anyone have a spare (working) XYZ switch? That I could buy? Or does anyone know of a reputable source?

Thanks
Click to expand...
could be a few causes like pick up pipe and o rings,but obviously whether t/c was fully fitted into the pump is a concern
 
jamesmartin said:
could be a few causes like pick up pipe and o rings,but obviously whether t/c was fully fitted into the pump is a concern
Click to expand...
Hmm, I'm guessing that the pickup pipe and o rings should be fine as its a rebuilt box, would I be correct in assuming that in order to check that the T/C is fully fitted I would need to take the whole thing off again?
 
leeorglory said:
Hmm, I'm guessing that the pickup pipe and o rings should be fine as its a rebuilt box, would I be correct in assuming that in order to check that the T/C is fully fitted I would need to take the whole thing off again?
Click to expand...
we can all make mistakes during rebuilds,there a oring on pipe and the one on the filter
unfortunately it would mean off again
 
From Ashcrofts FAQ

I have just fitted a reconditioned ZF autobox. I have filled the box with the correct amount of oil but have no drive at all, forward or reverse. Why?

The first thing to do is to remove the oil cooler pipe from the bottom of the gearbox (put a container under the open end to catch the oil) and start the engine. You should get a good flow of oil. If not the pump has been broken during installation and will need replacing/rebuilding. The torque convertor must be fitted to the gearbox, located correctly on the pump and locked into position before the gearbox is offered to the engine, otherwise damage will occur to the pump, resulting in no oil flow and subsequent to other parts of the autobox
 
Michalis Karatzis said:
From Ashcrofts FAQ

I have just fitted a reconditioned ZF autobox. I have filled the box with the correct amount of oil but have no drive at all, forward or reverse. Why?

The first thing to do is to remove the oil cooler pipe from the bottom of the gearbox (put a container under the open end to catch the oil) and start the engine. You should get a good flow of oil. If not the pump has been broken during installation and will need replacing/rebuilding. The torque converter must be fitted to the gearbox, located correctly on the pump and locked into position before the gearbox is offered to the engine, otherwise, the damage will occur to the pump, resulting in no oil flow and subsequent to other parts of the autobox
Click to expand...

Thanks, but as mentioned above the torque converter came already installed from Ashcroft and held in place with a bracket and bolts. I checked the clearance before offering up and it was correct, I didn't remove the bracket until the box was in line with the engine and ready to mate together. Everything went together smoothly and there was no forcing of the box to install it. once fitted, I checked the torque converter spun freely as mentioned in the instructions given by Ashcroft and it did. The only way that anything could have damaged the oil pump is if these boxes are way more brittle than I first thought and simply fitting everything has somehow damaged it. This is most frustrating having done plenty of manual gearbox swaps on other vehicles in the past I thought as long as I followed all the advice given on these forums and elsewhere on the internet it would be just as easy.

It surely can't be this easy to damage an oil pump can it?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

N
Discovery auto gerabox issues
Replies
19
Views
1K
marjon
marjon
E
Auto gearbox woes
Replies
3
Views
765
sierrafery
sierrafery
Padda.116
300tdi auto disco 1 BURNING RUBBER SMELL
Replies
4
Views
382
patrickmoran
P
KiwiTDI
Disco 1 Torque converter lock up clutch “slipping” after lock up
Replies
7
Views
480
KiwiTDI
KiwiTDI
Dieselweasel0
Discovery lt77 gearbox
Replies
5
Views
384
lynall
L
Back
Top