Td5 110 no start

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Ruger

New Member
Posts
3
Location
Norway
Hello,
I have a td5 110 2001.
All of the sudden it would take longer than usual to start .. and in about 15 minutes of driving i felt it lost power but it was still ideling until it stopped. Managed to start again after holding the start for a while , only to drive a further 200 meters and it stopped.
I have changed the oil filter, the one way valves on the filter housing . Have checked the fuel pressure at the fuel pressure regulator sensor and it was showing 3.8 bar .
Have tried my lynx diagnostic for the first time , and the only thing I can see is in the foultcodes and it says
3141 driver demand has been faulty .
I am new to the defender and I have had it for a year ... would appreciate anyone who can guied me thru .
Thanks .
 
Start by checking the red ecu plug (under drivers seat) for oil coming from the injector harness, pins 1, 24, 25, 26 and 27. It is a common problem but easy to change the harness if there is oil at the plug.
 
Start by checking the red ecu plug (under drivers seat) for oil coming from the injector harness, pins 1, 24, 25, 26 and 27. It is a common problem but easy to change the harness if there is oil at the plug.
Start by checking the red ecu plug (under drivers seat) for oil coming from the injector harness, pins 1, 24, 25, 26 and 27. It is a common problem but easy to change the harness if there is oil at the plug.
Thanks for your tip .
As you mention there was oil in the ecu plug. I tried to clean it with electrical spary but no luck in starting .
I will change the harness and hopefully that will do the trick .
If my ecu is damaged, how do I test it ?
Thanks
 
I don't think there is any way you can check your ecu unless you have a compatible diagnostic tool like a Nanicom or Hawkeye. You can take it out and open it up to see if any oil has got inside and clean it up, of course the oil may not be the problem, it usually causes engine stuttering, poor running before failing to start, it depends how much oil you have in there. So the best action is a diagnostic check anyway, which can save a lot of money by preventing changing things only to find it was not that and changing something else and still not solving the problem.
 
Last edited:
Hello,
I have a td5 110 2001.
All of the sudden it would take longer than usual to start .. and in about 15 minutes of driving i felt it lost power but it was still ideling until it stopped. Managed to start again after holding the start for a while , only to drive a further 200 meters and it stopped.
I have changed the oil filter, the one way valves on the filter housing . Have checked the fuel pressure at the fuel pressure regulator sensor and it was showing 3.8 bar .
Have tried my lynx diagnostic for the first time , and the only thing I can see is in the foultcodes and it says
3141 driver demand has been faulty .
I am new to the defender and I have had it for a year ... would appreciate anyone who can guied me thru .
Thanks .
Check the earth by the ECU is clean and tight, also does the temp gauge go straight into the red even when cold when it's not starting? if so check the yellow relays near the ECU, make sure their connections are clean and tight too.
 
I don't think there is any way you can check your ecu unless you have a compatible diagnostic tool like a Nanicom or Hawkeye. You can take it out and open it up to see if any oil has got inside and clean it up, of course the oil may not be the problem, it usually causes engine stuttering, poor running before failing to start, it depends how much oil you have in there. So the best action is a diagnostic check anyway, which can save a lot of money by preventing changing things only to find it was not that and changing something else and still not solving the problem.


Hello , and thanks for the tip .. back from work and the new harness has arrived .. I changed it and still no start ..
I Did a diagnostic check and the only thing it came up was , 3141 driver demand has been faulty .
Anybody have any more tips.. keep changing parts and still no start ...
 
"Does the temp gauge go straight into the red even when cold when it's not starting? if so check the yellow relays near the ECU, make sure their connections are clean and tight too..."
Did you check these?
 
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