Td4 VCU query??

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Great to be getting all points of view. Unfortunately events this weekend kept me in house so I havent done my one wheel up and turnp tests yet. What I did do was take the td4 for a spin tonight. ( old mans currently driving it daily). Full lock reverin test I was a bit more at ease with, I was able to walk the car round on clutch only without any throttle. I got a quote from a local garage of 720 for new vcu and 8bearings. If I do one wheel up test and if I prove vcu not seized and turnip test shows it not cooking then I think im oin to leave it for now. One more question tho.....I had a peek at vcu ( lying on **** wet drive). The casing of vcu and damper look good, paint/coating intact. This make me think it has been changed at some point in its life, or can someone convince me that vcu on a 2003 plate would still be like this or would you expect rust? I saw some on fleabay that looked dire.
To get my little bit I about the argument over to do or not to do, as an engineer im all for prevention rather than cure. What I can say is that my particulr industry is now leaning heavily towards condition based rather than sevice life due to premature failures or, on other side of the coin, cost saving....why replace something when thats not broke. This of course involves regular and conclusive testing. A regular one wheel up test with constant weight and lever seems the only way short of removing vcu and somehow bench testing it to eliminate interference from rear brakes/diff
A lesson I learnt - a number of years ago thought it a good idea to put my car ( not a landy) in for its scheduled service which at 80k inclued timing belt. One week later I got car back and my lovely quiet v6 engine sounded like del boys van. I couldnt trade it I fast enough.
 
Great to be getting all points of view. Unfortunately events this weekend kept me in house so I havent done my one wheel up and turnp tests yet. What I did do was take the td4 for a spin tonight. ( old mans currently driving it daily). Full lock reverin test I was a bit more at ease with, I was able to walk the car round on clutch only without any throttle. I got a quote from a local garage of 720 for new vcu and 8bearings. If I do one wheel up test and if I prove vcu not seized and turnip test shows it not cooking then I think im oin to leave it for now. One more question tho.....I had a peek at vcu ( lying on **** wet drive). The casing of vcu and damper look good, paint/coating intact. This make me think it has been changed at some point in its life, or can someone convince me that vcu on a 2003 plate would still be like this or would you expect rust? I saw some on fleabay that looked dire.
To get my little bit I about the argument over to do or not to do, as an engineer im all for prevention rather than cure. What I can say is that my particulr industry is now leaning heavily towards condition based rather than sevice life due to premature failures or, on other side of the coin, cost saving....why replace something when thats not broke. This of course involves regular and conclusive testing. A regular one wheel up test with constant weight and lever seems the only way short of removing vcu and somehow bench testing it to eliminate interference from rear brakes/diff
A lesson I learnt - a number of years ago thought it a good idea to put my car ( not a landy) in for its scheduled service which at 80k inclued timing belt. One week later I got car back and my lovely quiet v6 engine sounded like del boys van. I couldnt trade it I fast enough.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/serial-number-location-231153.html
 
Mine recently passed 130K with original VCU and I didn't really feel too worried about it on my daily drive. However I had decided to fix a few issues rather than change the motor and the VCU was changed as well due to the high mileage. I also changed all 4 tyres at the same time and have to admit that the whole driving experience is much smoother as a result. Knowing that a knackered VCU will strain the IRD I now feel completely at ease with the recon VCU (Bell Enigineering) fitted.

It's down to how you want to feel about the motor.
 
Great, appreciate this info so much, thanks a lot guys. I will post findings of my serial number. If its an 03, on my 03 td4, then im goin to change it. Im fitting 4 new tyres on saturday so if this is combined with a new/recon vcu then I will feel it will give that new lease of life. I was thinking of a change of landy but now that my other half has decided she absolutely needs a nissan juke to survive, im now " making do". Still better than a juke tho!!
 
As VW had 4wd using a vcu well before Freelanders were invented, the following clip on youtube may be of interest Busfest 2013 Test your Viscous Coupling on VW Transporter T3 Syncro - YouTube
I have read of people using a trolley jack or similar instead of the rollers. Of course for Freelanders the rollers will need to be at the front!!



I know it's got nothing to do with VCUs but I got sent this pic today of a T25 SYncro and I just have to put it here somewhere! I think it's awesome as our septic friends say...

tumblr_mv39kjNhub1ry4kfso1_1280.jpg
 
Well finally got round to doing my vcu tests last night. All quite interesting altho finding really as expected. First I didthe turnip test, so after driving in a straight line for some time I found vcu to be cool to touch, not much heat in it at all. At same time I checked markings on the casing. I have included photos. It appears by the "03" stamp that my td4 still has its original vcu. The condition of the support bearing mounts would also indicate this. While I had my hands dirty I went ahead and did the one wheel up test. Admittedly I never did this with any weights/levers. What I found was that I was able to turn the wheel by hand, not easily, took a bit of effort but it went and the rear propshaft was proven to turn with the the section remaining still as expected. I am actually confident that despite my 110k mileage, my vcu is still in working order. The car does not feel "tight" when driving. Please note I mention all this for info for those with similar problems who check threads in future. My biggest horror last night was discovering that my rear diff is leaking oil pretty badly, the whole lower casing is covered as per attached photos. My intention is for full shabang, vcu, bearings and rear diff seals as soon as I can get at it. I will probably replenish the diff tomorrow so that I know its got sufficient oil in there for now until I get all me bits together!!
 

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