TD4 using coolant...

Hello All,

my Freelander (2002 Td4 GS Auto) has for the last couple of years used a small amount of coolant when it is hot or has been on a long run, i cannot see any sign of HGF (nothing in the oil, no white smoke) it uses about 200ml per 500 miles when hot and next to nothing in winter.

looking around the engine bay i cant see any sign of coolant leaking but i do occasionally see steam (faintest amount) from the passenger side front edge of the bonnet when in traffic i just cannot locate it!

any help or past experience would be welcome!

thanks guys and gals

You should check the usual:

Pipes and expansion tank for cracks (also the tank cap)

I suffered (literally) from the same problem for over a year (only used 1 litre of coolant, though).

Last week changed the water pump and everything seems to be ok (knock on wood).

Maybe it's the same problem, maybe not.

Be patient, more will come to help (or tell you to burn it)

Since i replaced all my hoses with new ones my L-series hasn't lost a drop of coolant.
There may be splits and cracks hidden on the insides of the bends in the hoses, they'll only loose a small amount of coolant when the engine is running so you won't see the leaks.

the expansion tank was replaced under a recall/warranty a couple of years ago due to cracking etc. but i'll have a look around the water pump one evening, could do with some sort of UV dye to put in the coolant and dark room...

Maybe a slight hole in radiator? On my TD4 I also noticed a lot of the hoses were rubbing on metal engine parts and starting to wear away the rubber hose. I tided all these away from harms way.

Also and I have not looked at mine yet, the coolant pipes seem to go into the left passanger wing, at the front, I think this may well be the winter pre- heater thingy I`ve heared about, mine seem loose when i tug at them, I presume you will have to take off the left front under wing plastic protecting trim to see whats in there, I`m pretty sure mine is loose, so will investigate one day why. The coolant pipes here could rub and cause the pipes to rupture.

Thanks for all the advice, the main coolant hose from the rad to the block is perilously close to an electrical connector type thingy where it enters the block, i have searched high and low for the usual crusty signs of a leak, maybe my pal is right and "i should let it develop" strange that always has trouble and i don't!

Fake Elvis said:

Hello All,

my Freelander (2002 Td4 GS Auto) has for the last couple of years used a small amount of coolant when it is hot or has been on a long run, i cannot see any sign of HGF (nothing in the oil, no white smoke) it uses about 200ml per 500 miles when hot and next to nothing in winter.

looking around the engine bay i cant see any sign of coolant leaking but i do occasionally see steam (faintest amount) from the passenger side front edge of the bonnet when in traffic i just cannot locate it!

any help or past experience would be welcome!

thanks guys and gals

Click to expand...

Mines the same 02 auto - loosing less than 1 pint a year, small leak in rad. Tiny bit of steam on a cold day from front. My mechanic said don't worry!

I might have the rad done at the next service it has done 133k so a bit of wear and tear should be expected!

Ah! Huh! huh!

UPDATE! just had a look around and Bonnybrook was the winner! it appears as though the top edge of the rad on the right hand side is damp and has runs down the edge of the rad, anyone know how much this will cost to replace, i have seen rads for around £150 but looks way too complicated in there for me to do it myself so will have to book him in somewhere, any ideas chaps?

Fake Elvis said:

UPDATE! just had a look around and Bonnybrook was the winner! it appears as though the top edge of the rad on the right hand side is damp and has runs down the edge of the rad, anyone know how much this will cost to replace, i have seen rads for around £150 but looks way too complicated in there for me to do it myself so will have to book him in somewhere, any ideas chaps?

Click to expand...

I have the same dilema on my TD4, not changed one but was told on here a few months back its quite a job, removing bumper and there are serveral rads apparently if you have aircon.

I resisted the temptation to chuck radweld in due to the potential of blocking the heater matrix - particularly during summer when it's off a lot of the time.

If it's a small leak keep an eye on it - mine is barely noticable and the level didn't move all winter. I lost about 1-2" in 12 months from the expansion tank.

I once owned an MGF with the same engine as the petrol landy - my HG blew and I now have an tendancy to watch the temp guage like a hawk!

I am just reading the Haynes manual (Gawd bless him) and it only gets a 2 spanner rating! "suitable for beginner with some experience" WTF!!! "remove bumper" "remove intercooler" yay! think i will find someone to do it for me! It is using the distance between max and min every 2 weeks ish, depending on miles...

Fake Elvis said:

I am just reading the Haynes manual (Gawd bless him) and it only gets a 2 spanner rating! "suitable for beginner with some experience" WTF!!! "remove bumper" "remove intercooler" yay! think i will find someone to do it for me! It is using the distance between max and min every 2 weeks ish, depending on miles...

Click to expand...

2 spanners blimy, must admit i've not read the manual but im going to have a read! Mines not that bad yet - and I read of people on here running them for ages like this as rads don't tend to "go" like rubber piping does. Just keep the bottle of water handy!

In "theory" it should be fairly easy, drain, remove bumper, remove intercool, remove fan, remove rad - refit and fill/bleed system. Prob take me most of a day!

I have a local guy that does it for peanuts and sometimes it cheaper than making "mistakes"

Wifes TD4 was needing a top up once a week .After much searching it turned out to be the joint on the block from the top hose on the radiator (underneath the inlet manifold) One of them square recessed O ring jobbies that had gone flat with time, as I did'nt have one i just turned it round and put a bit of sealant on and "Jobs a good un"

local landy specialist has quoted 5 HOURS!!! to do the rad change!! he was certainly bigging it up as a hard job, anyone know what LR say it should be in terms of hours? i've looked on RAVE and can't find and time lists. Thanks chaps!

Just changed one on mi tractor (Def) and I bet it only took me 20 minutes.

5Hrs seems well OTT Got any friends that can lend you a hand, you just have to make sure you bleed the IRD cooling properly, there's a seperate bleed screew going down to it.

Go on lad! I'm sure you can do it ! think of all that beer money you will save

you confidence knows no bounds! i am edging towards that (DIY) and a pal has said i can use his unit with a 4 poster in, so watch this space!!!

Stand back, scratch yeh head,take notes and pics, what ever you do if it's got aircon, DONT UNDO ANY PIPES ON THE COOLER, undo it off it's montings and gently push it out of the way so that you can get to the radiator!

Good Luck

The hardest bit is getting the bumper off, most of the screws will have rusted to the clips.
Behind the access panel to the indicator bulb is a 10mm bolt that goes up through the bumper, through a bracket, and into a clip on the plastic wing.
If the bolt and clip are rusted together, the clip will turn and break the plastic:doh:
Remove the bolts on top of the wing, pull the wing outwards, locate the bolt coming through, and give it a dose of penetrating oil first
The Phillips self tappers will need a slot cutting in them with a dremel type tool for a descent purchase on them with a straight driver.