Td4 Thermostat Replacement - The Way To Do It!

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SnowTrippin said:
As I've left my full set of spanners in France, can I just double check exactly what tools are needed for this job as I will be tackling it next week!

On my list I have:

1.) 13mm socket/spanner
2.) 18mm socket/spanner
3.) E8 Torx SOCKET (not bit)
4.) E8 Torx ratchet spanner
5.) Assorted screw drivers

Anything else?

Cheers, Paul.
Click to expand...

15mm and 10mm socket if my original text is to be believed :)
 
Thanks for the write-up and suggestions.
I changed my thermostat yesterday, was hoping to get away with adding the Renault one in the hose but my thermostat was leaking water whenever I used the internal heater. Managed to do East Sussex to Manchester a few times without a problem but no heat in the cab in the winter!
 
if you are going to do this job put a piece of wood between the jack and sump after seen my friend on a ford jack the engine up and his jack broke the sump being as it was alloy.
 
oddbob said:
There's some good photos on here of how to replace the thermostat with a Renault one....it explains all about half way down the page.
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Click to expand...

I think we have established now that the inline can not be fitted to the TD4 or at least from 2003 - 2006 as there is not enough room in the hose, so care must be taken if you intend to try this method ?
 
Arctic2 said:
I think we have established now that the inline can not be fitted to the TD4 or at least from 2003 - 2006 as there is not enough room in the hose, so care must be taken if you intend to try this method ?
Click to expand...

Arctic2, do you mean by "inline" that it's the method of sticking the thermo down the hose, or do you meen the aluminium device cut into the hose that can't be fitted ?
 
thebluemax said:
Arctic2, do you mean by "inline" that it's the method of sticking the thermo down the hose, or do you meen the aluminium device cut into the hose that can't be fitted ?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

At the moment the one inserted into the hose as I have not heard of anyone fitting as of yet, mind you thinking about as anyone fitted the alloy one to a TD4 yet ?
 
Arctic2 said:
The under tray is easy to remove 5 minute job, FL onto the ramps or axle stands which ever you use.
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1

Four screws or bolts from the front of the tray
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2

Two bolts either side at the rear of the under tray 13mm ratchet spanner or good socket if they are stiff
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3

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4

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5

Two 13mm bolts either side at the front of the under tray accessed through the holes in the tray.
148kg90.jpg
6

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7

Then finally two at the rear centre 13mm bolts
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8

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9

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10

Drop the under tray copper grease the fixing points after.
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11

Come the summer I intend to remove drill out the plastic part of the under tray and refit with self tapping screws for even easier removal ;)
Click to expand...

Hey Arctic2

I'm liking the idea of the additional holes in the under tray to access those bolts, because they are a bugger to get at.

Anyway, would you mind telling me what size they are and some distances from known points to locate them when you get a minute…

Thank you.
 
NeilTD4 said:
Hey Arctic2

I'm liking the idea of the additional holes in the under tray to access those bolts, because they are a bugger to get at.

Anyway, would you mind telling me what size they are and some distances from known points to locate them when you get a minute…

Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Hi There.
I have recently drilled and re-fitted the plastic part of the under tray for easier removal, but will take measurements for you for the front holes that were drilled into the front bumper under carriage each side to access the hidden 13m bolts.

Also look out for my how to on the plastic under tray part only removal ;)
 
Arctic2 said:
At the moment the one inserted into the hose as I have not heard of anyone fitting as of yet, mind you thinking about as anyone fitted the alloy one to a TD4 yet ?
Click to expand...

rovermgfan had fitted one to his TD4 in 2013 according to his posts, but I will soon see as I have ordered it and hopefully it will go in the top hose, pray pray....:eek:
 
Well chaps, I have changed my thermostat and done quite well for time.

The job took about 4.5 hours but did bust my chops with the under tray.
Screws had to be drilled out out.
Them bolts put up a very good fight but I won.
Everything was seized.

Just waiting for my stainless screws and clips to replace the drilled ones.
Tyres fitted today.

You do need spacers for 235/55 R17. Too close for comfort on the struts.
Then in for the MOT.
 
Arctic2 said:
At the moment the one inserted into the hose as I have not heard of anyone fitting as of yet, mind you thinking about as anyone fitted the alloy one to a TD4 yet ?
Click to expand...

Just finished doing mine this weekend Arctic with the alloy one cut into the hose,
Will post pics etc soon but it all seems to work and heater is much hotter.
 
Hi all

Having read the instructions I was going to leave changing the thermostat till the weekend, rather than spend 5 hours tonight struggling with it. did however have a good look under the bonnet to make sure I had the correct tools. When I looked the set-up on my freelander it was not as I expected

Are there 2 'different' designs of pipe work or could someone have modified mine at some point (2002 MY)

1. the thinner of the 2 pipes on mine seems to have a piece of rubber hose on it just near the MAF so it looks like it will flex far enough to clear the bolt on the thermostat behind it.
2. The bolts on mine look like Allan bolts rather than torx bolts.
 
Arctic2 said:
Excellent thank you for informing us, I look forward to the pics you have taken cheers Arctic2
Click to expand...
Arctic, hope you have seen my pics, but if not....look under this thread :Freelander 1 aluminium in line thermostat fitted !!

 
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