Freelander 1 TD4 Snapped Belt

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
P

pdpjpr

Member
Posts
70
Location
Wolverhampton
Hi All

Had the belt snap on me on the way home Friday evening. Is it a fairly straight forward procedure to replace it and roughly how long does it take?

Many thanks.
 
If it is the long snake belt rather than the air con belt then look on this forum for the routing as it is complex!!

You will need a flat 15/16 inch AF ring spanner for the tensioner which is very tightly spring loaded and the wrong spanner will bugger the bolt head and your knuckles, or worse!! Some use a 24mm but it is not a tight fit.
 
andyfreelandy said:
If it is the long snake belt rather than the air con belt then look on this forum for the routing as it is complex!!

You will need a flat 15/16 inch AF ring spanner for the tensioner which is very tightly spring loaded and the wrong spanner will bugger the bolt head and your knuckles, or worse!! Some use a 24mm but it is not a tight fit.
Click to expand...
It's the longer belt. Does it need to go up on ramps or is it manageable with it on the ground? I've done rear hubs and shoes and replaced the high pressure fuel pump in the past so assume its no more difficult than this?
 
Front RHS up on stand. Wheel off, splash panel off (3 bolts). Bonnet up, feed in from top, feed around pulleys, use spanner on tensioner and push to release tension and get belt on last pulley.

Never get your fingers under the belt as you'll loose them if the tensioner slips!!

Look for reason old one has snapped, is it worn out or is there a sharp edge on a pulley, pulley out of alignment etc.

Not difficult job but, as I say, watch the tensioner, it is tight to turn, the bolt head is thin and the spanner needs to fit perfectly. I put the spanner on then jam a piece of wood on the top between the spanner and car chassis to stop it slipping off. Once you have rounded the head your buggered!!!

Good luck.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Front RHS up on stand. Wheel off, splash panel off (3 bolts). Bonnet up, feed in from top, feed around pulleys, use spanner on tensioner and push to release tension and get belt on last pulley.

Never get your fingers under the belt as you'll loose them if the tensioner slips!!

Look for reason old one has snapped, is it worn out or is there a sharp edge on a pulley, pulley out of alignment etc.

Not difficult job but, as I say, watch the tensioner, it is tight to turn, the bolt head is thin and the spanner needs to fit perfectly. I put the spanner on then jam a piece of wood on the top between the spanner and car chassis to stop it slipping off. Once you have rounded the head your buggered!!!

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Thanks for all your help Andy, much appreciated. Nothing looks wrong with the pulleys so I think it was just worn with age. In all fairness I don't know when they were last changed!
 
Sometimes they can be straight forward to fit, then some other times a nightmare, if the tensioner when pulling back starts to undo then you are going to have to tighten it up from the rear 15mm nut, very hard to get to, also use some superglue or loctite threadlocker,

I now this because only last week when i have to changed the belt on my R40 same engine this happened so a 15minute job took hours as the glue had to dry, then when i tired again it failed, so back to square one, got there in the end you need the tensioner to be pulled back at it full arch, putting the belt on the crank pulley last, once you get it started if it hard to fit round use a ratchet spanner on the crank pulley to pull the belt on.
vStHhepl.jpg
1

I was just in time i think
I3hd1w4l.jpg
2

ryuUnGql.jpg
3

LuRxb6jl.jpg
4
 
Arctic2 said:
Sometimes they can be straight forward to fit, then some other times a nightmare, if the tensioner when pulling back starts to undo then you are going to have to tighten it up from the rear 15mm nut, very hard to get to, also use some superglue or loctite threadlocker,

I now this because only last week when i have to changed the belt on my R40 same engine this happened so a 15minute job took hours as the glue had to dry, then when i tired again it failed, so back to square one, got there in the end you need the tensioner to be pulled back at it full arch, putting the belt on the crank pulley last, once you get it started if it hard to fit round use a ratchet spanner on the crank pulley to pull the belt on.
vStHhepl.jpg
1

I was just in time i think
I3hd1w4l.jpg
2

ryuUnGql.jpg
3

LuRxb6jl.jpg
4
Click to expand...
Should the small aircon belt be really tight? I've took the tensioner off completely and still can't get it on...

Thanks
 
No it shouldn't!
Have you compared with old one?
Tensioner should be required to tighten and it should slip easily over pulley.
 
andyfreelandy said:
No it shouldn't!
Have you compared with old one?
Tensioner should be required to tighten and it should slip easily over pulley.
Click to expand...
Put reg in euro car parts and this is the one it gave me. Dug the old belt out the bin and its probably 3/4 " longer than the new one. Does the face lift 2006 TD4 have a slightly longer belt than the original TD4 by any chance?
 
So it transpires that from my vin the belt should be 884mm as opposed to the 875mm euro car parts gave me. So they are both kind of right and wrong at the same time...
 
Because the 875mm belt is the correct one for the TD4 on the earlier vin. Pitty it doesn't list multiple belts on their site as I'd have looked which one was right before hand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Freelander TD4 Mk1 Rear Diff - Does anyone have any advice on how to replace the rear diff?
Replies
1
Views
171
Freddie17
Freddie17
J
2016 TDV6 Crankshaft Snapped
2 3 4
Replies
70
Views
4K
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
T
AC belt 2002 Td4-urgent
Replies
9
Views
742
The Pilgrim
T
B
Freelander TD4 Mk1 rear diff replacement
Replies
1
Views
256
brianp38dse
brianp38dse
B
FL2 now a 'total loss'...what is the process for buying back?
2
Replies
23
Views
1K
Buel10
B
Back
Top