Td4 rear brake pipe joint or full replacement?

Jimbob1 · Sep 16, 2018

Hi all
Whilst in the process of replacing both rear short hub to flexible brake pipes the male nut which connects the flexible section to the main pipe run from the abs unit rounded. Tried everything but its knackered.

So i think i have two options

1 try to splice in a new copper section somewhere around the rear axle which obviously requires a joint between the existing steel and new copper.

2 run a complete new run of copper pipe from left rear to the abs unit in the right front of engine bay.

Ive done brake lines before and have just made up the two short hub to flexi pipes for both rear drums. Saying that my flaring tool is a cheap clarke one so not sure how well it will deal with flaring steel.

Whats the view splice or new run?

Cheers all

Any tips on whichever is the better option.

Cheers
Jimbob

Nodge68 · Sep 16, 2018

Jimbob1 said:
Saying that my flaring tool is a cheap clarke one so not sure how well it will deal with flaring steel.

My Sealey flaring tool does steel, just. It's not designed for steel pipes but it will do it. Me, I'd just replace the complete pipe, as the least joints you have, the better. I replaced my rear pipes last year, so no worries about the for this year's MOT.

guineafowl21 · Sep 17, 2018

Yes, just replace the whole thing first as last.

The road salt is pretty bad up here, so if I’m looking to replace a wheel cylinder or flexi, I just replace the whole lot right to the ABS modulator. Then I’m not stuck with a useless car on a Sunday if problem arises.

When you open the system, wedge the brake pedal down - then you won’t have drips everywhere.

andyfreelandy · Sep 17, 2018

Similar question !! On my V6 (now that I have stripped off all the rusty bits and I can see) the last few inches of the brake pipes are rusted, but the run up to the point where it leaves the comfort of the engine bay is still painted green and in rubber tube in clips. I can easily cut the pipe on a good piece and then run about 4 inches of pipe to the flexi - it would save running in the new one all around the engine bay. However, I assume you need a joiner - you can't just screw male to female flares together?? And - would my tool do the steel - sounds like it might - it is a Sealey hand held. I'm not suggesting this because I am a cheap skate ! Purely that there really is nothing wrong with the pipes until they reach a few inches of the end. Join would be behind the plastic arch liner and neatly out of harms way - what do you think please??

Nodge68 · Sep 17, 2018

andyfreelandy said:
However, I assume you need a joiner - you can't just screw male to female flares together??

You can if you need a quick fix. However after a while the dissimilar metals start to corrode and could leak. Use a proper joiner piece, which are designed for the job.

Nodge68 · Sep 17, 2018

andyfreelandy said:
And - would my tool do the steel - sounds like it might - it is a Sealey hand held. I'm not suggesting this because I am a cheap skate ! Purely that there really is nothing wrong with the pipes until they reach a few inches of the end. Join would be behind the plastic arch liner and neatly out of harms way - what do you think please??

If you use a proper joiner piece, then it'll be fine. I've done it myself, when I didn't have enough pipe to replace the full length.

My sealey tool is like this, which does work on steel pipe, as long is it's lubricated.

Screenshot_20180917-144502_Samsung Internet.jpg

guineafowl21 · Sep 17, 2018

andyfreelandy said:
Similar question !! On my V6 (now that I have stripped off all the rusty bits and I can see) the last few inches of the brake pipes are rusted, but the run up to the point where it leaves the comfort of the engine bay is still painted green and in rubber tube in clips. I can easily cut the pipe on a good piece and then run about 4 inches of pipe to the flexi - it would save running in the new one all around the engine bay. However, I assume you need a joiner - you can't just screw male to female flares together?? And - would my tool do the steel - sounds like it might - it is a Sealey hand held. I'm not suggesting this because I am a cheap skate ! Purely that there really is nothing wrong with the pipes until they reach a few inches of the end. Join would be behind the plastic arch liner and neatly out of harms way - what do you think please??

As long as you can swing the flare tool around in the space available. In a pinch, I’ve joined two copper pieces with a male and a female union, using OP1 and OP2 flares (look these up so you flare the copper properly).

Don’t overtighten copper flares, or they’ll burst apart. Hand tight, then maybe 1/2 turn and see if it drips under pressure.

andyfreelandy · Sep 17, 2018

Thanks. Have ordered joiners. Not sure what you mean by dissimilar metals with a copper to copper joint? Using a joiner introduces dissimilar metals but is obviously the way to go.

blodge · Sep 17, 2018

Nodge68 said:
My sealey tool is like this, which does work on steel pipe, as long is it's lubricated. View attachment 158841

I spent a fun non-Freelander Sunday afternoon inside a Peugeot wheel arch with the same Sealey flare tool trying to put a new flare on the end of a steel pipe. After about 25 tries I finally got it to work with a vice grip holding the clamp bars on either side of the pipe to stop it pushing back through the clamp when I screwed in the die.

Since one of my next jobs is to deal with the Freelander pipe that got an advisory on the MOT, I wondered if anyone has an alternative flaring tool that they would recommend? Preferably one that is easy to use upside down in the dark with rain dripping down your neck.

Nodge68 · Sep 18, 2018

blodge said:
I wondered if anyone has an alternative flaring tool that they would recommend?

It's designed for copper or copper/nickel, so does struggle with steel pipes. Just replace the complete pipe with copper and use the tool you have. 20 foot of copper pipe costs less than a new tool.

Jimbob1 · Sep 19, 2018

Whilst i havent got to the flares yet (still in bottom draw) actually running the new copper pipe from left rear wheelarch to the abs unit inside front right wing is easy. Glad i didnt bother splicing steel and copper. I may do the other side whilst im at it.
New rear cylinders and flexi pipes arrived today. Just waiting for new clips springs etc so i can crack on, finish the job and get the MOT booked.

Jimbob1 · Sep 24, 2018

Finally got all the work completed. Fooled for a time as to how long it takes the rear brake adjusters to........adjust. Clearly about 10,000 applications of the rear brakes.

Quick tip.. instead of dicking about trying to drop the drum forward from the strut so i could get enough access to grind off the cylinder retaining bolts which had seized and rounded its quicker to just angle grind the cylinder to pieces and punch the retaining bolts from the inside.

Happy days.

Td4 rear brake pipe joint or full replacement?

Jimbob1

Member

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

guineafowl21

Well-Known Member

andyfreelandy

Well-Known Member

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

guineafowl21

Well-Known Member

andyfreelandy

Well-Known Member

blodge

Member

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

Jimbob1

Member

Jimbob1

Member

Similar threads