TD4 power loss when pulling away.

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Hi Russ,
I found a very helpful lady called Lucinda McLaughlin at Land Rover (Warwick) and I can give you her email address; [email protected]
She sorted my local dealer out and had the "running out of fuel" problem sorted immediately. Give her a try!
Martin
 
Hi. After months of being annoyed with the performance of s freelander i decided im gunna finally pull out the plug for the MAFS. From what other people have posted i know the rough location of it but not exactly where it is. I found a white/creme electronic plug at the very back of the engine back on the lhs. it was bolted onto the back of the engine bay near the sound deadenning foam. i dint pull it tho cos i wasnt sure if it was the MAF and the engine is a pretty expensive thing to knacker by guessing. so i was wandering if that white/creme plug i encountered is the MAF? If it isnt exactly what am i looking for?
Thanks,
Mark
 
Hi, no that is not the maf sensor, if you look at the yellow oil filler cap and cast your eyes rearwards from this towards the back of the air filter casing you should see wiring and a plug attached to the maf sensor, on my 04 td4 you would most likely have to take the top of the air filter casing off to be able to actually remove the connector to it, I dont know if earlier cars are much different. Hope this helps.:)
 
Labiarat said:
response to tdpwhoar, unplug the airmass meter and it will default to the original default settings if it gets better leave it off untill you can get a replacement, it wont damage ya engine but it might increase fuel consupmtion a little but it will b definatly better than u will b gettin now, the meter is under the plastic cover on the LHS at the opposite end of the air filter the eletronic clip is a bit fiddly but will undo fairly easy, once ya done that u will b amazed at the difference! ps, I think u will have to undo the airbox cover which is a pain in the butt.
Click to expand...

When you disconnect the MAF the engine will run on the "limp home" cycle which can be much better than leaving a faulty MAF connected, but if that's the case a MAF replacement seems to be the only valuable solution.
 
martin versfeld said:
Dealers....! Stealers more like it...! When I bought my TD4 (it was 4 months old) it kept running out of fuel before the warning light came on. I took it back 6 times to the main dealer with the same problem, only to be told by the service manager, "we've sorted it!" each time. I investigated the problem myself and found that the tank pump was duff. They denied this,(because it was an expensive item to replace) and it ended up with me contacting H.Q. at Warwick, before I got any joy. New pump fitted, problem solved! Scandalous!!!
I service it myself now.
Regards,
Martin
Click to expand...

I had the same problem, the engine warning light came on and starting the car was very hard to do and after a while it died on me while I was on my way to the dealer, they sent a flatbed to bring the car in and the techs. were laughing that I ran out of petrol (no warning light came up however), so they replaced the fuelpump located in the tank (under the right hand rear seat) and gave me the advice to try and fill up the tank when still 1/4 in it to avoid it A: suck up possible dirt in the tank and B: avoid the car wont run anymore if fuelpump breaks down again. (having the tank filled with at least 1/4 of petrol gives enough downforce to push the petrol into the pipe towards the engine where the secondary smaller pump is enough to do the rest, build up the pressure for the common rail etc..)
 
baldeagle said:
Hi, no that is not the maf sensor, if you look at the yellow oil filler cap and cast your eyes rearwards from this towards the back of the air filter casing you should see wiring and a plug attached to the maf sensor, on my 04 td4 you would most likely have to take the top of the air filter casing off to be able to actually remove the connector to it, I dont know if earlier cars are much different. Hope this helps.:)
Click to expand...

Hi MAB17,
hope this will be of help: (and I sure do hope this is indeed the correct plug....


 
Ye thats a big help cheers. I wa looking behind the engine block for the plug but that just shows you how well i know my car.......lol. cheers neways! Mark
 
Hi, fellow freelander sufferers, I'd be interested to know what your dealerships are doing about your power loss when pulling away problems, as mine haven't come up with a fix, except they suspect the egr valve is being signalled to open just as I want to pull away, not all the time, but always after approx 20 mins from starting, as explained in my original post.I was led to believe land rover technical were looking at this problem and were going to do something about it, but are they MY ARSE, still no word from them, and l/r customer service are an absolute joke, as other people on this site have so rightly said, I'm never ever going to buy another land rover, they really are utter rubbish.. Rant over for now, please share any info you can on this as I'm sure there is an answer somewhere, egr re mapping comes to mind, but are they clever enough to do it I ask? Does anyone know phone no. / address or anyone to e mail at landrover HQ, WARWICK?Best Regards.
 
We should gather details. rally together and complain en masse about this - much more power than individuals dotted around the country, as the impact gets diluted.
My 04 is doing exactly the same with only 13k on the clock
 
Hi AndyW, yes you are probably right, mine has had this problem from when i got it with 10miles on it, to now 7000miles, i'm giving them a chance to put it right soon. L R know about this problem by now surely, one person on this site left their car with them at the factory for at least a month,don't know what the result was though. Meanwhile anyone with the same problem and reading this,ought to join in, as we may have to pile on some pressure in the near future. Best Rgds.:)
 
Hi all,

Well after reading this string of similar if not identical faults on my TD4 I though I had the answer, regarding the engine totally flattening out at around 70mph. I removed the MFAs Plug as per instructions but unfortunately no noticeable difference.
I'm now going to look at a few other things mentioned (VGR valves, Hoses etc.) But it looks like it’s destined for the LR testbook, feel slightly aggrieved to do so as this failed to find a camshaft sensor problem on my other Freelander. (Which was brilliantly diagnosed incidentally by a similar online forum). So power to you all and keep the solutions of this "common" fault coming.:confused:
 
:mad: Now the car has been back to the garage two times since my last post. Went to see the dealer principle who says that they have not had the problem!¬!!! Funny though when we get the car back they say they have sorted the problem and tested it. Problem is now back again but seems to only happen when the car is driven with out stopping at circa 70 MPH you then stop at a roundabout / junction and it starts again. Tried LR Customer Care (they are a joke) no help or service from our dealer (Webbers of Basingstoke).
Has anyone had this problem and taken their car to Webbers as they say they have never heard of this problem.
Just for information when we took the car to LR Experience the instructor told us he would not drive the car as he feels it is a serious safety issue.
Not sure what to do next.
 
Hi,

Instead of leaving the car at the garage I would stay with it and have a testdrive with them to duplicate the problem. When you are present, and it happens again, they can't tell you they either did not find anything or that they fixed the problem or whatever other excuse they find/need. Did you mention what the instructor told you about a safety issue etc. at the LR Experience ? If eys, what is their comment?? Good luck.
 
hey looks like I've joined the club, just replaced both ther hoses on the intercooler on my TD4 massive black smoke and loss of power turns out one had split, then 2 days later the other did the same,
however the turbo control valve now seems to be sticking as per the above threads, some times it works fine for most of the day other times I lose boost intermittantly, I think the valve is sticking, or is the ecu doing something it shouldn't
Its such a strong engine when running properly, just starting to bug me with these persistant niggles tho

We should all just keep emailing landrover!
 
Don't just keep emailing LandRover. We should keep emailing VOSA (Vehicle & Operator Services Agency), these are the people that handle recalls and decide whether a vehicle fault needs a recall. From looking at this thread it seems that every other Freelander suffers this power loss fault. I have looked into VOSA and thety have the authority to order a recall if the fault is deemed dangerous. Well what is more dangerous than pulling out of a junction and your car slowly creeps into the middle of the road??? What is more dangerous than your car loosing power in the fast lane of a motorway??? Apparently you can contact VOSA directly to tell them about a fault, their site is www.vosa.gov.uk but so far Im unsure about where you make complaints as there are many different contacts. Neways....LandRover can choose to ignore us but they cant argue against VOSA if they get involved.....
Cheers, Mark
 
Hi, I'm new to this forum but not to the vehicle. I have an 04 my (53 plate) which had the hesitation/flat spot from new. Dealer did their best and changed just about everything (maf, turbo, throttle body etc (this was before the EGR software recall)). LR Customer Service had three letters but nothing. When I heard there was a software recall for the EGR controller I booked the vehicle in and had the software loaded. Still hesitated on pull away, so I disconnected the EGR and blocked off the vacum pipe. Have now covered something like 8K miles without the hesitation or flat spot (shame about the first 22K). Disconnecting the EGR is bad for the environment but what else can be done :(
 
well guys the guys at MJA landrover in Redditch fixed it for me in the end. After changing the fuel filter things were still no good, so they changed the valveon the turbo itself, presumably the wastegate valve and all is now good
their labour charges are £32/ hour and an oil filter and change cost me £69 inc vat the filter was only 7.85
I would recommend them to anyone with a landy of any description
 
Hi All,

There is some really good advice on this forum, but I get the feeling there is not one definitive answer to what is causing this problem. However the symptoms of the problem are all the same. Once the car has fully warmed up (20-25 mins) there is a clearly noticeable drop in performance when at low revs.

My Td4 has started doing this more and so regularly now that I found this forum to make sure I wasn't going mad and this was how the engine should perform. I have asked the dealer to look at it when it goes in for it's 12,000 mile service.

Out of interest I have chosen to have my car serviced at Webbers of Basingstoke, so I will let you know what my experience with this dealer is.

From what I have heard, they are better by a long way than the others in this area. Hunters in Southampton are apparently hopeless. I heard a terrible story (From the owner) about a Defender 110 cutting out on the M25! after having been in to Hunters 4 times to have the fault looked at. So Hunters was out of the question. I then considered going to Ottons in Salisbury only to find out that this Family run garage has just been bought out by Westover group who seem to have a reputation for ruining any garage they touch. Nissan, Fiat, doesn't seem to matter... So they are out of the picture too.

The Freelander is booked in for the 8th of March so I'll let you know what happens. I'm going to print this forum off and leave it in the car for them to look at. Hopefully the experience you guys have had will point them in the right direction for fixing the problem.

CT
 
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