TD4 power loss when pulling away.

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Really sad for scotty it was, he was one of the most fervent owners/defenders of LR and the Hippo in particular and then this happens to him. Shame on the dealer and LR.:mad: :mad: :mad:
 
willo said:
Really sad for scotty it was, he was one of the most fervent owners/defenders of LR and the Hippo in particular and then this happens to him. Shame on the dealer and LR.:mad: :mad: :mad:
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Willo!
Have a read of the 1st post on ming's vedgy gaylander thread

i did hear this somewhere before, that the injectors were hard to remove for some reason???

Unless thats just mings special powers:rolleyes:
 
Hi mondo,

Yes, but that's not typical to LR you know, Ray (a belgian member on that other forum) who works halftime at a diesel specialist (turbo specialist) said that after some 50.000 kms nearly all the common rail makes (Mercedes, BMW obviously as ours is a BMW engine, Fiat you name it) have problems if their injectors need to be removed, he suggested to take them out on a regular basis to avoid they get stuck in the head.
So ....
 
willo said:
Hi,

I think (hope) the Bosch part # is: 09.28.400.357

Good luck.

The path I was going to walk if I need to replace my Bosch is to get a Pierburg and a mafam box from Ron, both together will cost less as one Bosch plus that further Pierburg ones will cost a fraction from there on.
As far as I know the prices are:

Bosch maf 225 Euro + VAT
Pierburg maf 75 Euro + VAT
Mafam75p 86 Euro all included. (postal charges UK --> Belgium inc. as well).
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Thanks Willo. Part number was correct.

Seems that several Bosch MAFS contain the same sensor (F-00C-2G2-029) but that Bosch refuse to supply just the sensor and co-operate in ensuring that some complete units, including the referenced Freelander part, can only be obtained from the dealer at an exorbitant cost.

I purchased a part listed as a Rover 75 MAF, Rover p/n MHK 101130, on Ebay. I think this should have been 0928 400 520 but was actually a genuine Bosch 0928 400 357 as needed.

All seems a conspiracy to me. I think the same sensor is in a BMW M5, and several other BMW diesels, as well as the Rover 75 and some VW / Skoda cars. The Eco police should prevent this enforced purchase of more than you need!

I also discovered that the old unit had 6 pin security Torx fasteners and the new one has 5 pin security Torx (or are they?) fasteners. Presumably, part of the conspiracy to stop us discovering that Bosch is happy to place the same sensor in multiple MAFS and charge whatever they can get away with for that model.

Sorry Bosch, £250 for a part that lasts 50,000 miles and which you only sell as part of an unwanted assembly that itself clearly won't fail in 50,000 miles is simply a rip off.

Good news is that new MAF = new car :)
 
mondo said:
Willo!
Have a read of the 1st post on ming's vedgy gaylander thread

i did hear this somewhere before, that the injectors were hard to remove for some reason???

Unless thats just mings special powers:rolleyes:
Click to expand...
I take um out once a year ta check,put on anti seize, but 1st time had ta soak in penatratin fer a week before i could dare ta move em. . . :)
 
New member deafdick here. just been reading last 9 pages about TD4 lack of power, diconnected the MFF and as others have said WOW.

But still have not seen an answer to the question what is worse that happens if I do not replace it at any time just lower MPG and how long would that take to make up the amount of £100 (e/bay to buy one).

Car is 2 hand 110K miles but spotless so its first Land and 4X4 we have owned and its great.

When i first got it I fitted a electronic power booster which helped (got one fitted to my D rover75 as well and that is really great would reccommend then to anyone but look on e-bay state side and you will pay no more than £150 inc PP

deafdick
 
[email protected] said:
But still have not seen an answer to the question what is worse that happens if I do not replace it at any time just lower MPG and how long would that take to make up the amount of £100 (e/bay to buy one).
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Think it kicks the turbo power in at a certain power , so yours is outa spec, just poor mpg and bit of smoke ,um long term i dunno. . . .:)
 
Hi all, newbie here from the south of ireland. I'm currently driving freelander number 3 which has 29,000kms on the clock. It is currently driving me mad. I can't take off with confidence as 9 times outta 10 the loss of power means I'm sitting "dead-in-the-water" with traffic bearing down on me. Also when trying to drive at a crawl the shuddering coming for the drive-train is shaking the life out of the jeep.
My landrover garage are excellent and are currently working with me in trying to fix it. Last week they replaced the fuel pump and the air mass meter as well as uploading the latest software to the car, but it's getting worse.

Has anyone had any luck ? My previous freelander wouldn't start with the same symptoms as mentioned in a thread on page one of the forum but I didn't know any better and spent €800 on a fuel pump and when that did not fix it I traded it against my '05.

I'm getting tired of this now and I'm a mad landy fan. I have a 90 and a series III and my boyfriend has a 110, disco and range rover classic.
 
Hi, I am not saying that this will fix your problem, but it may help to narrow things down a bit,as this was the underlying problem with my TD4, try taking off the vacuum pipe to the egr valve, which is the valve with a metal diaphragm at the front of the engine on rhs as you look at it,near the battery.Then blank off the end of the disconnected rubber pipe with a pop rivet or similar.This will disable the valve, but it wont do any harm,to drive it like this to see if your low power when pulling away problem goes away. If, like mine, the problem does go away with it like this, it indicates that there is something wrong with the software or the control of this valve, Landrover could not come up with a fix for mine despite several stays at the dealership,so the options are to drive it with said valve disabled,which probably won't do any harm except possibly to the environment,or sell the car. (preferably back to a L/R dealer), Give this a go anyway, because stalling or having no power when in the path of others is lets face it, bl**dy dangerous. The shaking you describe in traffic is I think, another problem with the freelander, clutch judder, if this is what I think it is, I'd say you may need to talk to the dealership about it,it is a known problem, and may need clutch replacement (is it under warranty, if so,insist that they sort it for you). Good Luck.:)
 
hi there, my 04 freelander had the same problem. There is a new program out for the throttle this means it has unfortunately got to go back into Landrover for them install the updated program for this problem. Once i had them hook up my landy to the new program its been fine. It costs nothing if its still under the 3 year warrenty. Hope this helps. Kindest Regards COLIN
 
:eek: Hi you all an update on the MASS sensor problem.
to remind you someone suggested dsiconecting the sensor to prove it was faulty, and yes it was it really went great.

My next question was do I replace it and why. YES was the answer so i have just bought one from www.island4x4.co.uk on e-bay and fitted it and even more wow factor it really shifts now.

I do add that I have a electronic gismo to uprate the power but the engine is now smooth and QUITE.

So thanks all who helped.:)

deafdick
 
Nice reply Richard glad yer got it back ta normal,and thats a good price for the maf, nice of ya to put the info in thats what we need, good feedback,bit a usefull info,best oh luck. . ..:) :) :)
 
eightinavee said:
Been watching this post for a while now,got called out to a td4 yesterday with abs faults - according to the companies transport manager.Failed to tell me that the car had engine running faults as well- hesitation and running out of steam at 70mph.
One of 2 things usually cause this,the first is the vacuum solenoid actuator for the variable nozzle turbo,(Suzyg- it does not have a wastegate like an "ordinary" turbo - it varies the amount of boost by a set of vanes altering the angle that the air passes through the turbo)
The second is that the linkage in the turbo housing jams up - usually in the max boost position.
Both end up with the engine ecu seeing an overboost situation and shutting down the fuel pressure in the oulet of the high pressure pump,limiting output until you come off the throttle for a couple of secs.From memory the solenoid is Stc4189,and is about £35 +vat.
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Hi all
This is my first post and all I can say is THANK YOU :D
My 51 plate TD4 is now totally transformed due to this thread.
Changed the solonoid above P/N STC4198 (not as quoted above) £30 +VAT from Hunters Norwich.
Solonoid is located next to the turbo and reachable without a jack or stands 10mm socket and thats it! 30-40 mins max.
My snag was 70-75 MPH and that was it just like it had run out of fuel.
I struggled with a 500 mile each way trip to France this summer like that. I'm now writing this from the North of Scotland which is 570 miles from home. I've done a futher 400 miles since I have been here and the Freeby is great full power in all gears. My faith is restored. Once again Thank you all.
 
Finally collected my hippo from the dealership today..... :D :D It's fixed... I can't say how relieved I am. Now I only hope it lasts... anyway here the info I gathered so far...

There is a technical section under the title "Owner" on the main page of the landrover.co.uk web-site where if you register you can download all of the technical bulletins which are issued to the main dealers by Landrover itself. Bulletin number LN303-002v3 relates to 'Freelander - Internittent Engine Hesitation' and Bulletin number LN308-00220 is 'Freelander - Clutch Judder'.
So if nothing else it means that landrover know about the 'Engine Hesitation' problem and can't ignore its customers.

The work carried out on my freebie (that the pet name here in Ireland for freelanders) so is as follows :-

2 software up-grades
1 clutch
2 fuel pumps, by this I mean the same pump replaced twice.

The garage told me that the BMW engine must have the precise fuel pressure otherwise you get problems. The fuel pump which was standard during the manufacturing of the Td4's was a poor quality one and second time round my garage actually fitted a new type provided by Landrover which gives the precise fuel pressure to perform.

I'm delighted and if there is any further update I'll be back.

Thanks for all the advise and the peace of mind cos for a while there I thought I just couldn't drive.... :)
 
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