TD4 no crank from the switch

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paullap

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berkshire
Hi I am a newbee on this forum, I have a freelander 2003 TD4 2.0 Diesel auto that will not start on the key. If I turn the ignition on and jump the starter it starts, I am thinking a switch possibly in the gearbox. can anyone give me some help and a wiring diagram would be great.

Thanks Paul
 
It could be the ignition switch it's self my wife's did the same and it was contacts in the switch I just pulled it apart and cleaned the contacts and all is well some 10 years latter
 
Presumably if you turn the key to "crank" and the radio goes off, then the ignition switch is working.

You should have an alarm/immobiliser LED on the dash - it will blink when you are away from the car and it is alarmed. It turns off when you unlock the car. If the car is immobilised this LED will turn on solid and the engine will not crank. Is this light lit when you turn the key to "crank"? I believe it won't as you can jump the starter and will fire and run, but worth asking.

So if the ignition switch is working and it is not immobilised, then the starter wiring should be questioned and it is presumably the starter relay that is not functioning to provide power to the starter solenoid. This could be because the relay itself is faulty or the immobilisation/CCU is not earthing it properly. This has been discussed at length on various threads here as various people have experienced it, for example...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/anyone-investigated-clicking-starter-solenoid-design-problem.303481/

The "Rave" workshop manual produced by Land Rover will give a comprehensive description of how the starter is powered. It also has full wiring diagrams and can be downloaded, see...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rave-disk-maintenance-manual.260227/

If you are new to Freelander ownership, or you have had it for a while but never considered how the transmission works. It may also be worth reading...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
That's got nothing to do with your current problem - but I wish someone had shown me the things on that thread a couple of years after I got my Freelander!
 
Ok I have read through the Link, I have now got a lot to work with.

Please correct me if I am wrong,
1. if this was an immobilizer problem, It would not start by jumping the starter from the battery, as It starts and runs ?
2, Where are the relays and fuses I need to check ? The main one is the starter relay I would think.
3, If it is the neutral switch, where is it ?, and how do I diagnose it.
I will do some voltage test and voltage drop tests,

This wont be until Tuesday, so please don't think I am ignoring the help, I just have a very busy few days.


I will always come back and report what I find, even if I manage to fix it.
It must really annoying when you help people and they fix it , then they never come back, so you never know what the problem was.


Many thanks for taking the time to help


Paul
 
paullap said:
Ok I have read through the Link, I have now got a lot to work with.

Please correct me if I am wrong,
1. if this was an immobilizer problem, It would not start by jumping the starter from the battery, as It starts and runs ?
2, Where are the relays and fuses I need to check ? The main one is the starter relay I would think.
3, If it is the neutral switch, where is it ?, and how do I diagnose it.
I will do some voltage test and voltage drop tests,

This wont be until Tuesday, so please don't think I am ignoring the help, I just have a very busy few days.


I will always come back and report what I find, even if I manage to fix it.
It must really annoying when you help people and they fix it , then they never come back, so you never know what the problem was.


Many thanks for taking the time to help


Paul
Click to expand...

The box neutral switch is easy to check. If the letter N appears on the dash and the LED stick position indicator shows N then the switches in the box are working.

The starter relay is in the fuse box under the bonnet.

The immobilizer has two ways to stop the engine starting. First is to break the connection between the ignition switch and starter relay. The second is via a coded signal to the engine ECU. So because you can force it to run by jumping the starter, the immobilizer is sending the code, allowing the ECU to run the engine.

It has been found that the immobilizer relay that controls starter can fail, stopping it from energizing the starter relay, preventing cranking.

The ignition switch it's self can also cause this, also preventing the engine from cranking.
 
Last edited:
relays.jpg
Before I go to far, I am counting on the starter relay being the one still in with the writing on?. the 2 I have pulled are 4 pin but it looks like they should be 5 pin, as I go this as a non starter, are they the correct relays?. I have no power to any terminal on the relay with the lettering on the back.


Paul
 
Thanks for that , So I am on the right track, Ignition on, No power to any terminal on the starter Relay?


Checked all the fuses


Switch??? Possibly


Paul
 
Check fusible links 1 and 7, as they are in series, so if either is blown the circuit will be dead.

If not sure about 7, swap it with 9, which is for the main beam.
 
paullap said:
View attachment 121281 Before I go to far, I am counting on the starter relay being the one still in with the writing on?. the 2 I have pulled are 4 pin but it looks like they should be 5 pin, as I go this as a non starter, are they the correct relays?. I have no power to any terminal on the relay with the lettering on the back.


Paul
Click to expand...
Did you download the Rave manual?

If you look at the wiring diagram for (Charging and) Starting you can see the Starter Relay. You can see the '4 pins' being the 4 connections to it on the diagram. You can see that 1 wire comes direct from the battery via Fusible Link 1 and then Fusible Link 7 - so 1 of the connectors for the Relay starter should always have power regardless of whether the ignition is switch on. If there is no power then FL1 or FL7 must be blown or there is a fault in the wiring from the battery to the fuse box. If you follow the wiring diagrams it will show what else is supplied by FL1 and FL7 - so if they are working power should also be getting through to 1 of the pins on the Relay.
 
Looking at the Power Distribution diagram it appears the Starter Replay may be the only feed from FL7 - so as GuineaFowl says - try swapping it with the light's FL9 which is also a 40amp.
 
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