TD4 loosing power

I am hoping someone can help, my 2005, Td4 is experiencing power loss, no lights no black smoke it just losses power it seems to be at about 45_55mph then runs normal it also seems to get confused at junctions and roundabouts not always pulling away first time, bringing it back up to the bite works local garage couldn't find reason as no codes, then major power loss occurred and engine management light came on giving fuel as the problem, changed filter and pump, it's fixed major power loss but not intermittent power loss, vehicle feels as though it's braking did wonder if timing belt might be out but only because this is my 4 th freelander and the only one that is happy to drive at 30 in fifth gear and can take foot of accelerator pedal momentarily and it seems to think it's stopping and feels as though brake has been slammed on hard if that makes sense i know it will show down if foot is taken off the accelerator pedal but not that quick or that scarily, also fuel guage seems to move independently while vehicle is moving up to a quater of a tank can disapear then reapear any suggestions before I take out a bank loan to take it to Landrover

Good God, mrsmopp, how about dividing your post into sentences and paragraphs?! Makes it much easier to read.

Anyway, before taking the thing into LR, check the basics:

1. Check that none of the brakes are binding and that tyre pressures are correct (30 psi all round).

2. Do a 1 wheel up test or reverse on hard lock to check the VCU isn't stiff.

3. Check vacuum hoses and wiring to boost control solenoid.

4. Check for boost leak in turbo pipes.

5. Consider a good service, including air and crankcase breather filters. An intercooler flush wouldn't do any harm, either. While you're in there, give the EGR valve a clean out.

Thanks for your reply, sorry about style didn't think about it new in town bit nervous:
1.tyres correct, local garage says not brakes - I did ask
2. Checked not stiff
3. New one will investigate
4. Turbo checked all fine
5.full service December but don't know about egr valve though will check
I did wonder on the weight distribution seems better on a full tank gets worse as tank empties
Many thanks for replying

what mileage has it done it may be fuel pump or filter and even the map sensor boost control solenoid does not have wiring on it does it?

teddywood1 said:

what mileage has it done it may be fuel pump or filter and even the map sensor boost control solenoid does not have wiring on it does it?

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OP says the pump and filter were renewed so I'm assuming the new parts are OK. As for the MAP sensor, yes, a clean up would hopefully rule that one out. I have heard second-hand that a faulty boost control solenoid can cause symptoms that the OP describes - being a solenoid it has a signal and ground to activate.

After all the above are checked I can't think of anything else that can be looked into without a laptop. Can anyone else? Fuel pressure sensor? Injector leak off test? Throttle pot?

Oh, and the Td4 has a timing chain, not a belt.

If its braking hard when you take your foot off the go pedal then I don't see how its going to be the engine at fault.

I know you say you've checked the tyres - but are they all the same spec/make? I don't think its the tyres, but its worth double checking the pressures as if it is them, it could prove very costly to your transmission.

If something is braking the car then presumably its got to be something like...
1) Brakes - you've checked.
2) Tyres - mismatched or incorrectly pumped tyres will cause wind up - you've checked - but worth checking again.
3) Wheel allignment - might be worth getting all 4 wheels tested for alignment - do you have a lift kit fitted?

If its braking scarily hard - its not engaging the HDC for any reason is it? Can you hear the ABS pump/modulator doing anything? Should only come on in 1st (and reverse) but a short of some kind might kick it in - any HDC/Amigo lights lit?

my 2005, Td4 is experiencing power loss, no lights no black smoke it just losses power it seems to be at about 45_55mph then runs normal it also seems to get confused at junctions and roundabouts not always pulling away first time

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that bit sounds almost like a maf sensor malfunction ..
i.e. 45/55 mph be around the 2000rpm mark in 5th gear ..
and i think part of the maf wiring sensor to the ecu deals with that ..

you could discount the maf sensor .. or
find out if it is the cause by disconnecting the sensor and see if it runs any better ..
i.e. when leaving junctions .. pulling away at roundabouts etc ..
however disconnecting the maf .. will make it overfuel at higher rpm .. evidently ..

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td4 engine faults :
http://tuning-diesels.com/75Zt/R75faults.htm

about the 'maf' sensor :
http://tuning-diesels.com/75Zt/R75maf.htm

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but .. so does the turbo actuator ..
i.e. 45mph in 5th be around 1700 rpm or so .. about peak torque time ..
has the turbo-solenoid-vacuum-filter been checked ?
map sensor been checked ?

and the only one that is happy to drive at 30 in fifth gear and can take foot of accelerator pedal momentarily and it seems to think it's stopping and feels as though brake has been slammed on hard if that makes sense

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30mph in 5th gear .. that's pretty low rpm ..
even so taking foot of go-pedal should cut the fuel completely .. when in gear ..
untill it gets to the point when idle rpm ( or just above ) cause the fuel to start injecting again ..
in anycase .. shouldn't feel like the brakes have been slammed on hard
( unless that's a slight overstatement for effect )

for that hard braking feeling i'd suspect something in the drivetrain ..
unless the engine is starting to seize up .. ouch ..

on the other hand there is the hitting-a-brick-wall effect ..
usualy at higher rpm if the fuel filter or lp.fuel pump are screwed ..
that sort of feels like the brakes have been applied ..
( again thinking maf sensor ) .. but 'feels-like-brakes at 30mph in 5th gear' .. strange ..
that's about 1200rpm .. or below ..

then again if one were doodling along .. on the flat .. in that stage ..
and the fuel were to cut out completely .. would it feel like the brakes had been applied ???

mystifies moi :-/

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in addition: re. it being a possible engine issue ..
you might want to check out the condition of the fuel rail sensor plug/socket ..
see that the wiring pins are free of corrosion and dirt .. best to clean them and smear some 'contralube' on them
as rainwater can get in there and cause corrosion inhibiting the small voltages used in operation ..
if that plug/socket .. or the wiring .. is defective it will cause all sorts of poor engine running issues ..

Thank you for your replies
Vehicle acheives 1500 revs at 30mph and 2000 at 60_65mph
Thought I would have a go at the Maf sensor first, it seems to get better after fuel pump change but I can still feel it
Karen
:violin:

Vehicle acheives 1500 revs at 30mph and 2000 at 60_65mph

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is it an automatic gearbox ??
just wondered .. if so .. the issue had something to do with an automatic
( not that i know anything about auto trannys

i ask as mine .. manual box .. 17" wheels .. ( 2006 td4 )
readout from an accurate digital meter ( i.e. not the dashboard dials )
gives .. 30mph in 5th gear be 1200 rpm
60mph in 5th be at 2500 rpm aprox.

reason for the query is that at 1200 rpm ..
the turbo is just starting to apply some boost ..

you write that turbo is ok ..
make sure the small filter on the turbo vacuum solenoid is clean ..
( it's easy to see and cheap and cheerful to change ..
( some garages might miss it at service time ..
and see that the 'map' sensor id working as it should
( that sensor gives the engine management computer how much pressure turbo boost is giving )
although .. if that was defunct i'd expect a dashboard warning light to be 'on'

also the crankcase vent filter should be changed every year
( that's another thing some garages might miss )
best to get the bmw separator unit fitted instead of the 'filter'
then you've no need to worry about it ..
if the standard filter gets clogged and doesn't get changed then problems will result

oh .. and if the engine still has an egr valve fitted ( standard build )
then get that checked out for sticking ..
easy to take off and clean ( bit messy )
better yet .. get an egr delete unit fitted ( easy job )
then no more worrys about malfunctioning egr valves and the engine will run better

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those were off the top of my head .. didn't read the whole thread to see what has been mentioned ..