£65 including VAT at the stealers this morning. It's not fixed my problem tho.
Td4 Lack of power at 70mph - fixed !
- Thread starter Kungfu0210
- Start date
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£65 including VAT at the stealers this morning. It's not fixed my problem tho.
How much can you move the bar that comes from the vacuum to the turbo - try pulling it towards the turbo with your fingers?
On mine it only moved a few millimetres which indicated the turbo fault not the solenoid (found this out afterwards of course).
Hello
My name is Paulo, I am from Portugal and recently bought a Freelander TD4 from year 2000.
When I travel with more speed sometimes the car loses power for a few seconds then back to normal. Usually happens at around 120km/h in fifth gear.
There is a error recorded P1470 (variable intake balance valve) and P0100 (caliber air flow)
The mechanic told me yesterday there was a breathing tube (A) from a vacuum box connected to a transmission breather (B)...that's very wrong correct?
I will go to the mechanic today, what would you advise me to do?
Test the car without with this tube (1) disconnected?
The "vacuum box" should be repaired or cleaned because the the tube was connected to the transmission breather?
I do not know if I understand, can I test the MAF by simply turn it off or unplugging any tube?
Thanks,
Paulo
My name is Paulo, I am from Portugal and recently bought a Freelander TD4 from year 2000.
When I travel with more speed sometimes the car loses power for a few seconds then back to normal. Usually happens at around 120km/h in fifth gear.
There is a error recorded P1470 (variable intake balance valve) and P0100 (caliber air flow)
The mechanic told me yesterday there was a breathing tube (A) from a vacuum box connected to a transmission breather (B)...that's very wrong correct?
I will go to the mechanic today, what would you advise me to do?
Test the car without with this tube (1) disconnected?
The "vacuum box" should be repaired or cleaned because the the tube was connected to the transmission breather?
I do not know if I understand, can I test the MAF by simply turn it off or unplugging any tube?
Thanks,
Paulo
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Hi,was giong to order new solenoid as i have similar symptoms but the one fitted to my 04 td sport only has 2 hose connections and what appears to be a little black box (blank ?) where the third pipe (pipe 3 in the pic) is connected,my Question is, is it the same part no and do i just leave the third connection blank?
Hello all, just thought i'd update you on the cause of my lack of power issues with my Td4 03MY in case it helps anyone.
I initially had a split turbo hose whilst on the M6. It was the short 90 deg hose. Symptoms were initially lack of power, and then black smoke and air whistling sounds. Bought a new one of those for under a tenner and fitted it.
Unfortunately it didn't fix the lack of power over 70mph, but at least there was now no smoke. Symptoms now were that on a slight gradient on the motorway the car would start to lose power and thus speed. There was also a slight noise but not the same as the air noise from the split before.
The Td4 turbo is variable geometry and is controlled by the boost solenoid (see black plastic unit in the picture). It applies a vacuum to the turbo via pipe 1 in the photo. When the vacuum is applied the turbo exhaust side vanes close and it uses more exhaust gas to provide more boost.
My solenoid had failed so that it constantly applied vacuum to the turbo, and thus operated it at max boost all of the time. What then happens is that when you get a high speed / load condition i.e. 70mph and a hill, the ecu senses that the turbo is over boosting and derates the engine by cutting the fuel in order to protect it from damage. It will then speed up again when you get back onto the flat.
The solenoid is STC4198, cost £34, took 15mins to fit (don't need undertray off). Fitted and all working perfectly now.
So if you have lack of power on hills at 70mph, try this test. Pull pipe 1 off the turbo and drive a 70mph hill and see if it cures your issue. If it does, voila it's the boost solenoid. With the pipe off it will be a little sluggish at low speed accels as it won't be able to close the vanes for full boost, but it's fine to drive in order to do your 70mph test.
For info pipe 1 is solenoid vacuum to turbo, pipe 2 is vac supply to solenoid from the plastic reservoir at the side of the engine, pipe 3 is the solenoid vent to fresh air via the little filter. Check these for holes as they rub various engine parts. Also worth checking that your boost solenoid filter isn't blocked, as this would prevent the solenoid from releasing the vacuum and cause the same symptom. Fair chance it's ok though and your solenoid is bust.
Good luck !
I had exact same symptoms in my td4 2 years ago. Made the mistake of going to maindealer for advice.. . £1000 and one new turbo later problem resolved (ouch!). I"m sure your fix would have been as effective!
Hi I have exactly the same issue as everyone BUT? I have a L-Series engine? It doesn't have a boost solenoid it just has a pipe from the actuator to the turbo casting then just underneath it has a plastic pipe coming up to the map sensor? When it looses power I can hear a slight air whistle. I have removed the EGR valve and blanked it off and checked for any splits or cracks. It has no power loss at all until I reach 70 and then it feels like a hard headwind not letting you go faster. If I go down hill it will start to climb higher. I'm thinking map sensor or blocked cat? Any help?
Hi All,
This is my first post and I've registered to thank you for the info in this thread and to add my 2p worth.
My wife has a 2004 Freelander TD4 which she bought in December 2012 and loves to death. From the date she bought it I've been using Millers Diesel Power Ecomax once a month. About 6 months ago it developed the dreaded 3.5K rev limit problem. I bought a new boost control solenoid but didn't get round to fitting it. I cleaned the EGR valve and replaced the crankcase breather for the BMW style which helped a little, but not much.
A month ago on her way to work it wouldn't go uphill, so she brought it home and I changed the Boost solenoid. Changing it was was very easy (Front wheel off, in through the track rod clearing). This made it worse, it was lumpy on boost and still wouldn't rev. So it looks like this issue was a new one not related to the original issue.
I'm pretty mechanically minded (I've restored a few 80's Fords in the last 10 years) so my next port of call was the fuel system. At £200 from the dealers I decided to leave the pump until last and do the £20 filter first. Again, very easy, rear drivers side wheel off, peel back the arch liner, 3 bolts and the pump/filter housing drops down. Et Voila! She was back to good health and running much better than before. I'm sure had I taken it to the dealers they'd have diagnosed the pump due to low pressure, so I was happy I'd sorted it with a £20 filter.
I'm going to attribute the filter being clogged to the use of the millers additive releasing crud from the tank. Just for everyone to be aware really that this could be the issue and to watch out for it. But at £20 a go changing it annually with the service schedule is a must!
Cheers,
Lee
This is my first post and I've registered to thank you for the info in this thread and to add my 2p worth.
My wife has a 2004 Freelander TD4 which she bought in December 2012 and loves to death. From the date she bought it I've been using Millers Diesel Power Ecomax once a month. About 6 months ago it developed the dreaded 3.5K rev limit problem. I bought a new boost control solenoid but didn't get round to fitting it. I cleaned the EGR valve and replaced the crankcase breather for the BMW style which helped a little, but not much.
A month ago on her way to work it wouldn't go uphill, so she brought it home and I changed the Boost solenoid. Changing it was was very easy (Front wheel off, in through the track rod clearing). This made it worse, it was lumpy on boost and still wouldn't rev. So it looks like this issue was a new one not related to the original issue.
I'm pretty mechanically minded (I've restored a few 80's Fords in the last 10 years) so my next port of call was the fuel system. At £200 from the dealers I decided to leave the pump until last and do the £20 filter first. Again, very easy, rear drivers side wheel off, peel back the arch liner, 3 bolts and the pump/filter housing drops down. Et Voila! She was back to good health and running much better than before. I'm sure had I taken it to the dealers they'd have diagnosed the pump due to low pressure, so I was happy I'd sorted it with a £20 filter.
I'm going to attribute the filter being clogged to the use of the millers additive releasing crud from the tank. Just for everyone to be aware really that this could be the issue and to watch out for it. But at £20 a go changing it annually with the service schedule is a must!
Cheers,
Lee
Epicuser
Ex Freelander Owner
- Posts
- 2,393
- Location
- North East Surrey
Will do, just wanted to add my fix to the list first as only a few people have changed the filter and/or pump.
Just to add, it wouldn't do more than 70mph either.
Lee
Hi, I've just registered so i could post this message. I purchased my 03 freelander td4 kalahari last week, great car other than an intermittent fault at around 70mph. Having read your thread i took a punt and ordered the boost control valve £65 and fitted it during my lunch break. Hey presto fault fixed, runs great. Big thanks for the advice, got a feeling that i'll be using this forum quite a lot now I'm the proud owner (against my better judgement) of a vehicle thats got a bit of a reputation for having some issues! Once again, thanks.
colinjgraham
New Member
- Posts
- 9
#lack of power/mil problem
Just to help any one with the problem when accelerating or on a drag up a hill and limp mode cuts in.
I have recently suffered from this and had a local garage (always been great with my non 4x4 motors) check with their obd computer. This gave a p1260 low fuel pressure fault. Fitted new filter and pump to no avail.#
Decided to contact a 4x4 specialist and found a fairly local one near Durham.#
They got it on their diagnostics the same afternoon and it only showed one fault which was turbo boost related. They tried a boost solenoid(second hand) and it showed some improvements. They agreed to leave it on till the next day and supply and fit a new oem one for me.
New one fitted and diagnostic done again, now going like it should!!. No charge for diagnosis as they fitted parts for me (very reasonable price) to be honest they could have said it was turbo etc and I wouldn't have been any the wiser. Nice people to deal with.
Thank you Durham4x4 you are first class!!
Just to help any one with the problem when accelerating or on a drag up a hill and limp mode cuts in.
I have recently suffered from this and had a local garage (always been great with my non 4x4 motors) check with their obd computer. This gave a p1260 low fuel pressure fault. Fitted new filter and pump to no avail.#
Decided to contact a 4x4 specialist and found a fairly local one near Durham.#
They got it on their diagnostics the same afternoon and it only showed one fault which was turbo boost related. They tried a boost solenoid(second hand) and it showed some improvements. They agreed to leave it on till the next day and supply and fit a new oem one for me.
New one fitted and diagnostic done again, now going like it should!!. No charge for diagnosis as they fitted parts for me (very reasonable price) to be honest they could have said it was turbo etc and I wouldn't have been any the wiser. Nice people to deal with.
Thank you Durham4x4 you are first class!!
Jamadant
Member
- Posts
- 33
- Location
- Manchester
got this over the weekend, loss of power and intermittent engine management light. changed inline filter, crank breather filter & EGR mod today. only took a couple of hours and all seems well (hopefully). 142,000 miles
Beetlejuice
New Member
- Posts
- 2
I also have the lack of power at 70 but it's not got worse and the engine managemt light is on after 5 mins of driving, and it sounds a bit like a tank! Shuddering etc.. I noticed there's oil in the turbo vent filter too? HELP!
Jamadant
Member
- Posts
- 33
- Location
- Manchester
i changed Crank breather, egr mod and then new filters all round. Problem returned so took the plastic manifold off. at the right hand side (passenger side) there is a fuel sensor, it was green inside. cleaned it out and it is now perfect. the turbo vent filter is only connected at one end so there will be an open end at the other. hope this helps
Hey Everybody,
Im new to the forum but had a few land rovers, im having the same issue as the above with my TD4 04 plate. Now I have done a complete service, changed the fuel filter, oil filter, semi synthetic oil, air filter, crank case breather (for the BMW version), changed the turbo atmosphere breather and cleaned my MAF with a electrical cleaner. Fault diagnosis is saying MAF issue but found it was just unplugged. I have changed my inter-cooler hoses (apart from one) for new silicone ones (found a little hole in the 90o one), I am clutching at straws with this one and have my last three options down to the turbo solenoid, MAF sensor or tempreature sensor.
Firstly the temp sensor is not giving me any resistance reading on the multi meter (and its not a cheap one - fluke).
Not tried the unplugging the turbo vac feed yet or unplugging the MAF any help would be more than appreciated as Im heading off to Europe in 4 weeks and would like to get it sorted of then as the open road in lag mode (every time I hit a hill) is not what I have in mind.
Thanks in advance guys.
Im new to the forum but had a few land rovers, im having the same issue as the above with my TD4 04 plate. Now I have done a complete service, changed the fuel filter, oil filter, semi synthetic oil, air filter, crank case breather (for the BMW version), changed the turbo atmosphere breather and cleaned my MAF with a electrical cleaner. Fault diagnosis is saying MAF issue but found it was just unplugged. I have changed my inter-cooler hoses (apart from one) for new silicone ones (found a little hole in the 90o one), I am clutching at straws with this one and have my last three options down to the turbo solenoid, MAF sensor or tempreature sensor.
Firstly the temp sensor is not giving me any resistance reading on the multi meter (and its not a cheap one - fluke).
Not tried the unplugging the turbo vac feed yet or unplugging the MAF any help would be more than appreciated as Im heading off to Europe in 4 weeks and would like to get it sorted of then as the open road in lag mode (every time I hit a hill) is not what I have in mind.
Thanks in advance guys.
