Freelander 1 Td4 Jatco 3rd to 4th Flaring, Slip- Solved

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Matt2000 said:
I was looking up how to jack up a Freelander 1 with a trolley jack but got nowhere, meant to ask somewhere in here but forgot. Can it be done?
Click to expand...

Yes. Both front and back can be lifted in the centre with a decent trolley jack.
There's even an "X marks the spot" pressed into the front and rear subframes to show where the jack saddle is positioned. ;)
 
Thanks both, don't know why I couldn't find any information about it. I'm definitely a newbie when it comes to Freelanders having only owned this one since February. I'll get another set of axle stands.
 
Matt2000 said:
Thanks both, don't know why I couldn't find any information about it.
Click to expand...

I think its a little known bit of information.
The FL1, like most Rover vehicles of the period have been designed to be lifted at each end, by the central positioned lifting point.
Actually the front tow hoop is also strong enough to lift the front of the FL1, as it is with all rovers of the 90s. ;)
 
Also, it doesn't need to be level to do the job.
Just measure the ATF drained and replace the same amount then warm it to 38 deg C and place it level to check the level is correct after the work.

Another plug for my trusty PScan - it shows the ATF temperature in real time without dropping a thermometer in the box !!
 
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andyfreelandy said:
Also, it doesn't need to be level to do the job.
Just measure the ATF drained and replace the same amount then warm it to 38 deg C and place it level to check the level is correct after the work.

Another plug for my trusty PScan - it shows the ATF temperature in real time without dropping a thermometer in the box !!
Click to expand...
I'm not even sure if my Delphi stuff does that? +1 for PScan.eu
 
Thinking of getting a spare gearbox myself to do this, was going to tour the local scrappies but just came across this on Ebay. It's local but I think they've got it down as the wrong name, or have they? Did the JF506E get a model name change at some point or are they just going off an internal or component number on that sticker?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275335371530

Being from 2005 I'm wondering if this could already have the upgraded piston in it, I'd still replace the clutch rings. Seems like the right price though for getting a drum to rebuild.
 
Looks the same, cheap enough !! If you can collect, not light, probs 50-70 Kg.
If you do a swap like this it saves taking the piston out, seals etc, just replace the clutch frictions and swap it out.
It is the price of the piston, so worth a shot !!
 
Excellent, thanks. Yeah for the price I think it's worth the gamble, for ease of getting the parts out to rebuild if nothing else. Really intrigued to see if a later box has the old piston or the new one.

I have a quick-assembly engine crane if it's too heavy for a couple of us to lift, I reckon the floor in either my bobtail or the Freelander should take it!
 
I understood 2001 was the year of the faulty piston. What year is your vehicle with the fault on??
My photos show the differences.
 
Mine is 2002, the box I'm looking to buy is 2004/2005. I'm undecided if I will remove the piston on the donor to check it, seems like it would be the smart thing to do. I will certainly remove my old one once swapped. The car didn't come with much history, for all I know the gearbox could've been swapped for an earlier one. The donor says an 05 car but the torque converter is December 04 in the picture so it's entirely possible that my car was built with components from 2001.

Not sure if Microcat will have engine/gearbox numbers, haven't used my virtual machine for a long time.
 
OK. Could well be an old off the shelf piston.
If you plan to remove the reverse piston get the seal kit, there are 2 neoprene rings, one on each piston and internal and an external.
Vanmatic sell the kit, about £7 from memory.
 
If you are looking to save cash, measure the donor friction rings.
I fitted new but the donor box which had reportedly done 80k had rings that were almost as thick as new. 1.6mm is the thickness of new.
More than could be said for the box that had been slipping!!!
 
I'm certainly not in a rush so I intend to take it apart and check the friction rings at least, no idea how many miles this gearbox has done. If there's little to no chance of there being an issue with the piston then I probably won't go that far. Thanks again!
 
Bought the gearbox on Ebay and picked it up tonight, there was even a coupon to get another 10% off so I only paid £36. I'm assured that all the parts are inside, it certainly weighs enough.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Also, it doesn't need to be level to do the job.
Just measure the ATF drained and replace the same amount then warm it to 38 deg C and place it level to check the level is correct after the work.

Another plug for my trusty PScan - it shows the ATF temperature in real time without dropping a thermometer in the box !!
Click to expand...
My Foxwell NT530 shows the g/box oil temp but as has been said elsewhere on here not sure how critical the exact temp is as long as you run through the 'gears' before checking the level.
 
Well I stripped the drum out of my donor box tonight and measured the rings, 1.56mm for the high clutch and reverse clutch. how does that compare to the 80K and 31K boxes? I won't be taking the drum apart any more just yet but I suppose what I do depends on the condition of the piston and if I choose to replace it, would be daft to order a piston and then not get the rings at the same time.

IMG_3510_S1920.jpg
 
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I will measure the 80k ones. The 30k ones were burnt and ridged badly from the skip. It sort of confirmed I was in the right area!!

That measurement appear good to use. What is 0.04mm??? Zilch ish!!!
 
80k miler measured at 1.43 to 1.49mm.

I'd use what you have!! They have either been replaced or you have a near new box there.
 
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