Freelander 1 TD4 GETRAG Gear Linkage sloppy - ?????

Guys,
I have searched, but only to find PG1 stuff.
I have a 2003 Freelander td4 with a GETRAG box.
the gear lever is sloppy on the side to side movement.
The Linkage has been replaced with a good second hand unit
the ball joints are "reasonably" tight and don't show any sigtns of movement.
the gear box selector setup seams to have a little squarish block of plastic that may show signs of wear.
does anyone have any ideas what the kit numbers are, and where to buy them from - except the main stealers???

Thanks
Wayne

Found this.... quite a bit of information if read to the end... but
i've still one question.... and added it to the end...
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/gear-selector-rods.264048/

xpuser8334 said:

Guys,
I have searched, but only to find PG1 stuff.
I have a 2003 Freelander td4 with a GETRAG box.
the gear lever is sloppy on the side to side movement.
The Linkage has been replaced with a good second hand unit
the ball joints are "reasonably" tight and don't show any sigtns of movement.
the gear box selector setup seams to have a little squarish block of plastic that may show signs of wear.
does anyone have any ideas what the kit numbers are, and where to buy them from - except the main stealers???

Thanks
Wayne

Click to expand...

Wayne, I've had a Td4 from new (2005) and the linkage gradually got sloppier. I popped off the nylon ball/cup joints and anything else that moved, greased with graphite (sticky) grease and put it all back together. Finally worked out, with some help from Haynes Manual (see pic. 4.31 on Page 7A.5) that the lost motion was mostly in the rocking yoke joint to the selector quadrant, and started greasing that every few months. Access is awful so you can't see what you are doing. Finally plucked up courage to take it to bits as per Haynes, and found the plastic block. Key points :- You don't need to knock out the roll pin. If you pop off the nylon ball/cup joint, the rocking yoke pivot pin is simply a push fit in nylon bushes. Heave it out and the yoke comes off, hopefully complete with block. Block is 20mm x 12mm x 10.9mm, with an 8mm hole (dead centre) to fit the pivot pin on the yoke. The 12mm dimension fits the 12mm wide slot in the quadrant, you get wear here and in the 8mm hole. I coated the block and hole bore with Araldite, filed to size and re-fitted with, again plenty of grease. Seems quite good. I don't know yet if the block is obtainable from LR, but it does not show up on-line. If the block is beyond repair, I reckon you could make one from a brass M8 nut. Drill out to 8mm for the pin, file 2 of the flats from 13mm AF to 12mm with a clearance, should work reasonably well.
You appear to be able to buy the whole selector tower for about £100 (+ VAT, of course) but it's a lot to pay when all you want are the block, rocking yoke & pivot pin.
Regards, Bryan Stark

I know this is an old thread but I got to this post from a Google search and and perhaps other interested in the answer. Well I have found a part from muddymods that's seems to fit the bill.
https://www.muddymods.com/collectio...ts/freelander-1-td4-floppy-gearshift-fix-bush

Yes, this works well. But tricky to fit and involves going in through the wheel arch and pushing out pins etc, but fixes the problem.

The part finally arrived and I have now fitted it, there was no original in place. I didn't need to go through the wheel arch to remove a roll pin as Bryan previously suggested, but pushed out the rocking yoke pin from underneath. It has helped but it is still difficult to engage reverse.