TD4 Fuel Rail problem anyone?

Hello,

Having had my TD4 in a garage for 15 days with them looking at potential turbo problems, it was decided that it was carbon build up on the wastegate vanes. Some kind of engine cleaner was added to the engine and for about 8days the car ran sweetly.

A couple of days ago it started spluttering on the way home, and I ended up doing about 45mph tops for the last 3 miles (engine limp home mode!). Made it to the local LR dealer the next morning, and I have a corrosion problem on the connector for the fuel rail.

LR says (deep breath) that if cleaning the connector doesnt cure the problem, then I will need a new fuel rail (about £400).

The car is still a little hesitant, and will occasionally flat spot for a moment and then carry on. It also smokes (again!) quite badly at times, although i'm unsure if this is the turbo or something to do with the fuel rail!

Any thoughts...

Gaz

PS. Have now bought a VW V6 TDI Passat, as I need something reliable to get me to work. I need to keep the Freelander going for a couple more weeks before I collect the Passat - then the Freelander goes to the highest bidder.

gazhyde said:

PS. Have now bought a VW V6 TDI Passat, as I need something reliable to get me to work. I need to keep the Freelander going for a couple more weeks before I collect the Passat - then the Freelander goes to the highest bidder.

Click to expand...

oops!

Your dealer is full of ****!!!
If its a fuel rail sensor problem then all you do is close up the terminals, if that dont work, renew the terminals. the pressure sensor is available seperatly so you wont need a whole fuel rail if the sensor needs to be replaced, if you want one, I have a brand new one in me tool box.

Thanks for the reply Clutchdust.

I'm not technical, so unfortunately I have to listen to the sh*t they spout. Which is why I go on the internet to find out what is actually going wrong...

So they say the fuel rail connector is corroded, and the whole thing needs changing. But I can just change the connectors instead?

Also, would you say that this kind of problem would cause the engine to smoke? Thinking perhaps burning too much fuel, or the mix is wrong!

Thanks again, Gaz

gazhyde said:

Thanks for the reply Clutchdust.

I'm not technical, so unfortunately I have to listen to the sh*t they spout. Which is why I go on the internet to find out what is actually going wrong...

So they say the fuel rail connector is corroded, and the whole thing needs changing. But I can just change the connectors instead?

Also, would you say that this kind of problem would cause the engine to smoke? Thinking perhaps burning too much fuel, or the mix is wrong!

Thanks again, Gaz

Click to expand...

which part is corroded? the sensor terminals or the terminals in the plug?

If the sensor terminals are corroded then just change the sensor, if the terminals in the plug are corroded then they can be replaced without buying a wiring harness. All dealers should have a wiring harness repair kit.

The problems this would cause are bad stating, rough running and stalling and smoking.

Errrm, they didnt say which part was corroded. They used the sentence "The fuel rail connector is corroded". They then cleaned it up.

So, if I was going to try and figure this bit out myself where should I start looking....?

Your symptoms seem to hit the nail on the head. Although it is reliable at starting, its the random stopping thats the problem....

Thanks again.

gazhyde said:

Hello,

Having had my TD4 in a garage for 15 days with them looking at potential turbo problems, it was decided that it was carbon build up on the wastegate vanes. Some kind of engine cleaner was added to the engine and for about 8days the car ran sweetly.

A couple of days ago it started spluttering on the way home, and I ended up doing about 45mph tops for the last 3 miles (engine limp home mode!). Made it to the local LR dealer the next morning, and I have a corrosion problem on the connector for the fuel rail.

LR says (deep breath) that if cleaning the connector doesnt cure the problem, then I will need a new fuel rail (about £400).

The car is still a little hesitant, and will occasionally flat spot for a moment and then carry on. It also smokes (again!) quite badly at times, although i'm unsure if this is the turbo or something to do with the fuel rail!

Any thoughts...

Gaz

PS. Have now bought a VW V6 TDI Passat, as I need something reliable to get me to work. I need to keep the Freelander going for a couple more weeks before I collect the Passat - then the Freelander goes to the highest bidder.

Click to expand...

Why can't they just replace the rail pressure sensor?
It can be unscrewed and cleaned, and the contacts cleaned with switch cleaner.

I can't see why a fuel rail should be needed if there are no leaks.

Ron

gazhyde said:

Errrm, they didnt say which part was corroded. They used the sentence "The fuel rail connector is corroded". They then cleaned it up.

So, if I was going to try and figure this bit out myself where should I start looking....?

Your symptoms seem to hit the nail on the head. Although it is reliable at starting, its the random stopping thats the problem....

Thanks again.

Click to expand...

Usually when they play up, it's not till the engine is warm, they then start running rough and stall, if it's left long enough then bad cold starting/running problems will start.

Normally what causes it is vibration opening the terminals up in the plug/connector to the rail sensor, normal cure is to either replace the terminals or close them up with a small screwdriver.

roverron said:

Why can't they just replace the rail pressure sensor?
It can be unscrewed and cleaned, and the contacts cleaned with switch cleaner.

I can't see why a fuel rail should be needed if there are no leaks.

Ron

Click to expand...

This works on older cars but not on newer stuff where even the slightest resistance change will cause problems. All sensors for the engine work using resistance to measure temperature, pressure etc, if the resistance is too high caused by a bad connection/corroded connector then the ECU will interpret this as the sensors reading and alter fuelling etc to suit, this will cause running problems, If the resistance is so high to cause an "out of range" reading, the ECU will enter a default/limp home mode.

I have seen connectors that have been cleaned but the resistance is still too high because the system is that bloody sensitive to the slightest change.

If there is corrosion damage to a sensor or ECU then the affected component should be replaced and any water damaged wiring replaced too.

I don't know why they quoted for the whole fuel rail when the sensor is available seperately.