Tapping noise from top of engine

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Few more pics, where it’s marked is where the tensioner snaps off from the weaker oil pump cover

second pic , can see where it’s broken off

73300F0B-43A6-4004-B4E4-48A3D0A94419.jpeg
8D43E1AE-95D8-4720-B11E-E0845BBAF99B.jpeg
 
Pic shows timing belts without the cover on, 2nd pic is of mine when it was being done, wasnt going to attempt to do my first timing belt change on this engine

EAFBF9AB-7F9E-4A37-916A-0934D8017099.jpeg


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hotmrw said:
I got round to doing my Oil Pressure test - here are the results ( Normal Pressure Figures Are Quoted from My Haynes Manual )

My Oil Pressure readings as follows:
Cold & At Idle Speed = 2.7 BAR
At 3500 RPM - HOT = 2.5/3 BAR

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Normal Oil Pressure For my 2006 RR Sport TDV6 should be:
Cold & At Idle Speed = 0.7 BAR
At 3500 RPM - HOT = 1.9 BAR

So from what I can gather my Oil Pressure seems to be acceptable.....What are your thoughts?
Click to expand...

hi

those figures indeed look fine

can u get the figures for ur injectors, reason I say that better to at least get them checked out before starting to take things apart, along with ur pocket
 
The Timing Belts + Oil Pump are top of my to do list - before Christmas - it had a water pump and thermostat on it about 1 00 miles ago - still lots of jobs to do on it - only just got it through an MOT £750.00 ( Needed a new Hand Brake Module ) - but need to get to the bottom of this tapping - even though it is Raining and I have Man Flu I have just been back outside with my stethascope, it does sound like it is the rear pot on the drivers side making the noise - it is an ass to take the rocker cover off as you have to remove all 3 injectors etc etc - but I am confident I will find soming lose this time as I will do a more in depth check in there -

And I assume that the Belts have never been changed as surely one would also change the waterpump at the same time -here is a picture of the waterpump that came off mine is - I fitted a new SKF one fluShed the system, fitted a new Land Rover thermostat ( Only £32.00 from the Main Dealer ) and filled with new antifreeze ETC
 

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Not sure if JLR SDD can configure injectors, will need to have a look at it - but these are the codes that are stored - the only one I cant figure out is ignition key lock solonoid - inone cause me a probloem so they have moved down the TO DO LIST lol
 

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hotmrw said:
Not sure if JLR SDD can configure injectors, will need to have a look at it - but these are the codes that are stored - the only one I cant figure out is ignition key lock solonoid - inone cause me a probloem so they have moved down the TO DO LIST lol
Click to expand...

the injectors on urs don’t need coding ,ur looking for the live data , enclosed a screen shot from mine

have got all the figures so can tell u if there out or not , old way is doing a leak back test but with u having diagnostics u should be able to get the live data for ur injectors

at the back of the drivers side there is one of the timing chains and tensioner , passenger side cyl head the chain and tensioner is at the front

looking at the codes , hvac sounds like ur air conditioning is low, should also be able to see what the pressure is via live data

interior lamps will more than likely be LEDs have been fitted

fuel level is low on fuel , where the light has come up

U codes, don’t worry about

Make sure u battery and alternator are good, as a bad battery can cause havoc

the other Bmc J code I’ll get some info for u

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B1C57-14 (2F) Passive start ignition relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open
( at 9940 km )

Plse See what ur battery volts are
1)with the engine off
2)Then engine running with nothing turned on
3)Then engine running with everything on and at 3,000 revs

meant to ask, is that software u can buy to place on a laptop please or is it silly money

looks like u can also hook up an oscilloscope on that which is a great tool for diagnostics , thks

look forward to any updates and of course between us all help u all we can
 
I am sure JLR SDD has the Injector balancing offset readings - And also the battery readings - I will take a look today and update, the JLR SDD I got off Ebay on the advice of many - the guy remotely installs it on your PC - it was about £80.00 I think - and I bought a Mongoose Cable for it from China ;-) works perfect - I recalibrated my suspension with it which was the initial reason I bought it.
 
Here are my Cylinder offset readings - I could not find it on JLR SDD so used my Delphi DS150E

CYL 1 = 1038/1051
CYL 2 = 1212/1220
CYL 3 = 959/963
CYL 4 = 814/820
CYL 5 = 1026/1035
CYL 6 = 919/928

Battery - nothing running = 11.9/12.2v
Battery on Tickover - nothing on = 15.1v
battery at 3000rpm - everything on = 15.1v

I am hoping to pull the rocker cover today - it does look like rain however and this Man Flu is killing me.
 
hotmrw said:
Here are my Cylinder offset readings - I could not find it on JLR SDD so used my Delphi DS150E

CYL 1 = 1038/1051
CYL 2 = 1212/1220
CYL 3 = 959/963
CYL 4 = 814/820
CYL 5 = 1026/1035
CYL 6 = 919/928

Battery - nothing running = 11.9/12.2v
Battery on Tickover - nothing on = 15.1v
battery at 3000rpm - everything on = 15.1v

I am hoping to pull the rocker cover today - it does look like rain however and this Man Flu is killing me.
Click to expand...

hi

battery could do with a charge , really need 12./6 Vdc for a standing battery , alas don’t know how old it is

Thks for the inj offset , don’t look too bad, ideally should be between 800-1200 but also more even

alas , do feel it’s the possibility of either , that drivers side rear chain but saying that doesn’t sound like a rattle , more of a tappet sound

at least with the cover off ur have more information of what the tappets are like

would u mind taking some piccies if u get chance please when u remove the covers , would be very grateful
 
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