Tailgate unlocking.

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To the important things, what sort of train do you own?
Oh, and Freelander 3, what do you know that we don't?
 
Had the same problem. Sounds violent but with care you can get the trim off by getting your fingers behind the top against the glass and giving a firm pull. There is no other option.
 
The screws are at the base of the panel unfortunately. once they are undone the panel then pulls downward to remove. Not very easy if the door won't open and some damage to the panel is inevitable as you may have to resort to forcing it out of the top channel
 
In an ideal world, i.e. if you can get the door open, there are 4 screws across the bottom rhs, under the door pocket. the rest of the bottom and the 2 sides are held on with heavy duty press in fasteners, and you have to just pull hard but carefully from the bottom to get them all to unpop. when that is done, angle the door cover to about 45 degrees, then pull the top up and it should come out of its clips.

as dann says, if you can't get the door open, you're going to have to pull the clips out from the top first. don't lever against the glass, the pivot point is much lower down and it will just break. there are only two clips on the top, and they are at about 25 % and 75 % of the way along, so concentrate your pulling force at these points.

If you need to fashion a puller to get behind the trim, go somewhere like B&Q and by some fixing brackets, which are steel plates. then using pliers, you can bend on end over to form a hook which you can manipulate behind the door trim and apply force to using a pair of mole grips or similar.

sadly, some damage is inevitable.

good luck
 
Can someone tell me how to open stucked taildoor by electrical way? Thanks!

BTW, You can not open the door at all as there is no manually accessable way of releasing the door mechanism without resorting to a disk cutter. There is an electrical way of doing it though.

Cheers,

Dave
 
Copied my replay from an older post:

I've had this problem. Here's what I did.

With the back window down, if you operate the handle you should here a double click from the direction of the drivers seat. Thats the release relay in the CCU. What happened on mine was the wire for the lock release solenoid had broken in the umbilical between the door and the door post. You got to get the door open first. Thats the tricky bit as there is, unbelievable, no mechanical release. Therefore, assuming your problem is the wiring and not the solenoid, lower the back window first. Get inside and access the wire loom in the back door. Identify the Purple/Blue wire heading across to the lock. Take two PP3 9v batterys and connect them in series (18V but it won't do any damage). Connect the negitive to the door frame. Run a wire from the 18v positive and touch it onto the conductor of the purple / blue wire. To access the wire you will need cut into the insulation to access the copper (which will need taping up again afterwards). If the lock solenoid is healthy the door should unlock as soon as you make the connection.

Now the door is open you can investigate where the problem is.

Good luck,

Dave
 
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