tailgate regulator cable renew

Just about to start this little job anyone point me to the best how to thread and or advice, or anyone fancy a project nr me lol

Stuck in the up position and now beeps when press the button to lower, it was working ok for now but my mate pressed the button yest thinking it was the side window and has wound the cable up the motor..

Found this one
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f69/how-tailgate-window-regulator-repair-replacement-246939.html
But typical it's chucking it down deffinatly a pint in it for someone that has done it before and fancies giving me a hand some supervision. :-D

If it was me i would just replace the whole thing. Its to much hassle trying to repair them.

I've not done a rear window but tried to repair a front and it was a pain.
Ended up getting a whole unit.

Oh dear.... if stuck in the up position you might have to cut the existing cables to lower the glass to get to the clamp bolts.

I've done this job myself in the past and got it working - next time I wouldn't hesitate to spend the extra £25 quid and buy an assembled regulator....

This is very easy. If you search for my tip and use a clamp to take the tension off the cable to finish the last part of the process you will be fine.

With a lot of shouting and swearing at the pleb who invented that mechanism it's in and done but the window doesn't drop when the door is opened?

I can open it a push it down so it will close

I think there is a limit switch that it makes when it drops to open the door, is it set up correctly. Also there is a switch in the door handle that makes it drop, is that O.K. and still wired.

So there x2 cables with springs on with a larger clip that goes over the cable tunnel on the motor and one that slots inside now the one that slots in has the spring fully compressed when the window is up and fully down and in the dropped a couple of inches position is this correct? And the one with the auto tentioner seems fully uncompressed.?

Does the spring play any part in open door window drop proccess?

I've tried the battery off and back on process where the window fully drops and then I need to close it with the button, I've tried the six and more clicks with the fob lock button and neither seem to fix the window so it drops.

Heated window is connected washer is connected door shows as shut on the dash, window raises properly when shut tailgate.

Any other ideas?

ianda12 said:

I think there is a limit switch that it makes when it drops to open the door, is it set up correctly. Also there is a switch in the door handle that makes it drop, is that O.K. and still wired.

Click to expand...

All worked fine before the cable snapped few months ago not sure if the boot key lock has ever worked.

It sort of feels like it want to drop doesn't, does the position of the sliders really matter when roping the spoil up?

Who ever decided this was a good idea I would willingly dismember them and eat their liver

Should also mention mines the van model so don't think it has a roof sensor

Is the glass bearing too heavily against the rubber seal and the additional drag stopping the window from dropping. The regulator motor gets a 200 millisecond pulse when the handle switch is "Made" which pulses the motor to drop the glass to the "COS" (Clear of Seal) position-this pulse is non adjustable. There should be approx. 1mm of deflection of the rubber seal when the door is closed and the glass raised. This deflection can be adjusted using the two adjuster screws at the bottom of each regulator rail. These act as "Jacking screws". You slacken the two nuts which lock the screws to the tailgate panel and adjust the slotted screws to suit...back them off so the glass is not compressing the seal and then adjust them to give the 1mm depression. It would help to have someone inside the rear of the car doing the adjusting whilst someone is outside watching the seal deformation as the screws are turned. When it's correct, pinch up the locknuts and refit the tailgate panel.
The springs on the regulator should have equal compression to ensure that the cable is under tension whatever direction it's moving.

Is this the correct procedure found it on here?
2 On 3 door models, ensure the roof is on (hard back) or lowered and secured (soft back).

3 Disconnect the battery earth lead, observing battery disconnection electrical precautions detailed in the Workshop Manual Service Repairs.

4 Allow at least 10 seconds to elapse before reconnecting the battery earth lead. The tail door glass will fully lower approximately 2 seconds after the battery is reconnected.

5 Start the engine. Ensure that all electrical loads, i.e. lights etc. are switched off. Increase the engine speed to 1500 rev/min. for 10 seconds.

6 After 10 seconds and whilst maintaining the engine speed at 1500 rev/min., carry out the following:

i) Close the tail door window fully to start the calibration procedure.
ii) Fully open the tail door window.
iii) Fully close the tail door window.
iv)If the tail door window remains closed, the calibration procedure is complete.

7 If the calibration procedure is unsuccessful, the CCU will sound a warning for approximately 0.8 second and fully lower the window. Repeat the calibration procedure from step 1."]2 On 3 door models, ensure the roof is on (hard back) or lowered and secured (soft back).

3 Disconnect the battery earth lead, observing battery disconnection electrical precautions detailed in the Workshop Manual Service Repairs.

4 Allow at least 10 seconds to elapse before reconnecting the battery earth lead. The tail door glass will fully lower approximately 2 seconds after the battery is reconnected.

5 Start the engine. Ensure that all electrical loads, i.e. lights etc. are switched off. Increase the engine speed to 1500 rev/min. for 10 seconds.

6 After 10 seconds and whilst maintaining the engine speed at 1500 rev/min., carry out the following:

i) Close the tail door window fully to start the calibration procedure.
ii) Fully open the tail door window.
iii) Fully close the tail door window.
iv)If the tail door window remains closed, the calibration procedure is complete.

7 If the calibration procedure is unsuccessful, the CCU will sound a warning for approximately 0.8 second and fully lower the window. Repeat the calibration procedure from step 1.


I was doing it without starting up etc...

Did you follow the exact procedure as outlined here?

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/tailgate-window-regulator-cable-replacement-top-tip-257737.html

I did not have any calibration to do when I did mine.

Started a specific thread for this