Tailgate Not Unlocking

Hi all

My P38 has a intermittent problem in that the tailgate on occasion (now more often then not) won't unlock.

What happens is when you press the remote unlock all doors unlock but not the tailgate.
If I use the key only the drivers door unlocks.
If I use the drivers door button only the drivers door unlocks.
When driving all the doors sometimes randomly lock and unlock themselves.

Having read the forums to find a solution I have tried the following:

Taken the tailgate button off, checked and cleaned it, put it back together.
Taken the drivers side door panel off, checked all the wires and connections.
Checked all fuses for any corrosion, damage.
Currently the tailgate panel is off and I have to climb through the back seats to manually open it.

So I am guessing it is the drivers door latch that needs replacing but does anyone have any other thoughts?
Also where do you buy such an item? Google was most unhelpful in looking!

Many thanks

I think you're right, the latch is the most likely. Our forum sponsor, Emmotts are your best bet for a replacement.

It was a corroded connector to the tailgate button the first time on mine, second time it was/is dried grease in the drivers door lock, regular squirts of WD40/Plusgas sorts it for a while.

CDL switch in drivers door lock grounds tailgate circuit from fuse 15. If it's not being grounded it won't work. If the CDL switch is not making the rest of the central locking will not work properly as described.

Hi , have a look at one of my old threads I wrote a script on how to strip down etc , simple guide for you step by step ,,, regards mozz

mozz smith said:

Hi , have a look at one of my old threads I wrote a script on how to strip down etc , simple guide for you step by step ,,, regards mozz

Click to expand...

He has other problems Mozz CDL switch not making is my bet.

have a look on 15th march 14.29 ........cheers

Morning all,
I had a similar problem - it started off when the car immobilised itself-the super person named Mozz sorted that out (many thanks again!).
What I found with mine was the boot would not unlock until the interior lights had timed out-mine may have a problem with the bcm.
I disabled the interior lights and this solved the problem.
My car will still go into engine immobilised if I don't turn the ignition key within about 10 secs of entering the car-but I can live with this after nearly 9 years of ownership.

Hope this helps

Steev

Thanks guys, I've been out today and bought some wire wool and gonna take the button apart again as well as grease up the mechanisms.

I'll then have a look at the ground in the door and see if there is any problem with that.

Fingers crossed it will be simple as finding a new part is not proving easy.

Datatek said:

It was a corroded connector to the tailgate button the first time on mine, second time it was/is dried grease in the drivers door lock, regular squirts of WD40/Plusgas sorts it for a while.

Click to expand...

Are you just squirting that in to the lock?

domino said:

Are you just squirting that in to the lock?

Click to expand...

Just down towards the lock from the window slot Works for a few months each time Too busy to strip the lock out until I'm forced to.

haha - ok

Well I have stripped, cleaned, greased and oiled everything and still no joy, so looking for a replacement actuator but no luck anywhere!!

I've contacted several websites and ebay breakers but no one seems to have one aaaarrgh!!

TheHulk said:

Well I have stripped, cleaned, greased and oiled everything and still no joy, so looking for a replacement actuator but no luck anywhere!!

I've contacted several websites and ebay breakers but no one seems to have one aaaarrgh!!

Click to expand...

Have you checked you have voltage at the actuator when the button is pressed? Actuator failure is rare, more likely the wires have broken between body and tailgate if there is no voltage.

TheHulk said:

Well I have stripped, cleaned, greased and oiled everything and still no joy, so looking for a replacement actuator but no luck anywhere!!

I've contacted several websites and ebay breakers but no one seems to have one aaaarrgh!!

Click to expand...

Land Rover Freelander Mk1/Range Rover P38A - Boot/Tailgate Central Locking Motor | eBay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rov..._3&fits=Model:Range+Rover&hash=item2a3bf84753


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rov...761?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item462068b531

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/range-rov...332?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a3e2a1b54

wammers said:

Land Rover Freelander Mk1/Range Rover P38A - Boot/Tailgate Central Locking Motor | eBay

Range Rover P38 Tailgate Lock Solenoid 1997-2002 | eBay


Range Rover P38 Tailgate Lock Mechanism Latch All Parts Available 2.5 4.0 4.6 | eBay

range rover p38 4.6 v8 tailgate lock | eBay

Click to expand...

From what I have read up it is the actuator in the drivers door, not actually the tailgate one as the tailgate one wouldn't cause it to lock and unlock on it's own.

I have managed to source a drivers door one for only £15 from a scrapper so fingers crossed that will solve the problem.

Datatek said:

Have you checked you have voltage at the actuator when the button is pressed? Actuator failure is rare, more likely the wires have broken between body and tailgate if there is no voltage.

Click to expand...

I haven't checked this, I don't have anything to test it with but I will ask around and see if anyone has a volt meter. Cheers

TheHulk said:

From what I have read up it is the actuator in the drivers door, not actually the tailgate one as the tailgate one wouldn't cause it to lock and unlock on it's own.

I have managed to source a drivers door one for only £15 from a scrapper so fingers crossed that will solve the problem.

Click to expand...

Duff CDL switch in the drivers door lock. It grounds boot lock circuit and unlocks other doors. If it's duff the rest of the doors should not be working either.