Tailgate.....HELP.

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HoldFast

HoldFast

Member
Posts
19
Location
Scotland
I have scanned the web, for what feels like forever, and I am yet to solve my Tailgate issue.

Anyone want to help me?

Here goes....

Tailgate on my Freelander 1 TD4 is knackered.

A - The outside handle is missing. (See image 01).
B - The window is open approximately 4” (See image 02).
C - The tailgate won’t open.

I have managed to remove the plastic panel from the inside of the tailgate.
To be honest, I have a clue what I’m looking at in there. I can see the white plug that’s connected to the electronic lock module thingy.
I have tried removing the plug and also the battery just to see if it would release anything....but nowt.

I’m snookered folks, please help.

D
 

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HoldFast said:
I have been through them all.
Nothing shows up with the same issue I have.

:-[
Click to expand...
Did you have the Dartmoor dogs treat the tailgate badly. I would read Sherlock Holmes. If you have your fob key handy try pressing open near the Tailgate to confirm whether window actuator works or not. If not check the console tailgate switch also for any life. if nothing then accept it technically buggered. Disconnect the main battery for half and hour to drain computer system power. Then reconnect if any movement at rear tailgate drops the actuator works. Check tailgate fuse. All this before major surgery ensues.
 
With the door handle missing, there's actually no way to operate the door latch. Unless you can rig a "pretend" door release switch. You need to get the wiring exposed to achieve this. The Black Orange wire is the switching wire. It needs to be grounded to the bodywork to activate the latch.
Actually the BO wire tells the CCU that the door switch has been pulled and the CCU drives the door latch.
The window could be faulty, so rectification will be needed. It could also be fine and the system is out of whack.;)
 
saxavordian said:
Did you have the Dartmoor dogs treat the tailgate badly. I would read Sherlock Holmes. If you have your fob key handy try pressing open near the Tailgate to confirm whether window actuator works or not. If not check the console tailgate switch also for any life. if nothing then accept it technically buggered. Disconnect the main battery for half and hour to drain computer system power. Then reconnect if any movement at rear tailgate drops the actuator works. Check tailgate fuse. All this before major surgery ensues.
Click to expand...

Pass, purchased like this.
There’s no door handle and have tried pressing the fob near tailgate. No sounds/noises.
Tried disconnecting battery for days on end, but to no avail. All fuses look fine. Window is already down.

Nightmare!
 
Nodge68 said:
With the door handle missing, there's actually no way to operate the door latch. Unless you can rig a "pretend" door release switch. You need to get the wiring exposed to achieve this. The Black Orange wire is the switching wire. It needs to be grounded to the bodywork to activate the latch.
Actually the BO wire tells the CCU that the door switch has been pulled and the CCU drives the door latch.
The window could be faulty, so rectification will be needed. It could also be fine and the system is out of whack.;)
Click to expand...

Ahhh, that all makes sense now..!!!
Thank goodness.
Cheers Nodge68 - will give this a bash.

Will reply with the outcome in due course.

D
 
Just Tinking in Irish here Begorrah begorrah begorrah the main Latch mechanism requires the the lock actuator to pull down by the feed correct? But the movement is a simple solenoid lever that you can feel for and pull down by hand. If as the OP mentioned the panel is off. He could check the window cable condition if knackered or snapped push the glass with a leprechaun walking stick. Then feel the two parts of the locking system for the lever to unlock that way. Please shoot me down here.o_O:eek:
 
As Nodge says, you need the tailgate door handle to open the door. Usually the bolts holding the handle on rot through the boot door and the handle comes off in your hand, so after you purchase a handle you'll have lots of fun fitting it. In the meantime you can open the door by pulling down the solenoid. I can't remember if you need to remove the plastic cover or just stick your fingers round the side and pull it down though.
Here is a piccie of what you're dealing with.
$T2eC16RHJHcFFkRn3)YLBSOliozkFQ--60_57.jpg

Just took a look at the photos and it looks pretty typical. :eek:
 
Nodge68 said:
With the door handle missing, there's actually no way to operate the door latch. Unless you can rig a "pretend" door release switch. You need to get the wiring exposed to achieve this. The Black Orange wire is the switching wire. It needs to be grounded to the bodywork to activate the latch.
Actually the BO wire tells the CCU that the door switch has been pulled and the CCU drives the door latch.
The window could be faulty, so rectification will be needed. It could also be fine and the system is out of whack.;)
Click to expand...

Just having a wee look at this now.
I’m seeing one black/orange cable going into a plug type thing.
I’ve attached a photo, is this the correct one Nodge68?
 

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The orange/brown will go through the door to the handle outside. If you connect the orange/brown to ground, the CCU power the door lock.
The wire in the picture looks like an orange/black, which wouldn't be correct to ground.
 
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Nodge68 said:
The orange/brown will go through the door to the handle outside. If you connect the orange/brown to ground, the CCU power the door lock.
The wire in the picture looks like an orange/black, which wouldn't be correct to ground.
Click to expand...

Ahhh orange/brown wire.
I’ll have a wee loon again.
Thanks for the quick reply!
 
Nodge68 said:
Sorry. I said black/orange in an earlier post. Looking at the CCU inputs, the door open request is orange/brown.
Click to expand...

I’ve just unwrapped the black insulting tape, that was wrapped around the cables at the handle side, as it looks like someone has butchered them.
(Photo attached)
Far right cable looks organge/Brown....I hope!
 

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Ok the wire's to the handle have been cropped short. The orange/brown is there, so you can strip the insulation off the end. Do the same with one of the black wires. If you connect the two momentarily, the door should release. If it doesn't then you'll need to investigate further.

From memory, the red/ orange is for the mumberplate light. The blue/white is probably for the key lock in the door handle assembly.
 
Nodge68 said:
Ok the wire's to the handle have been cropped short. The orange/brown is there, so you can strip the insulation off the end. Do the same with one of the black wires. If you connect the two momentarily, the door should release. If it doesn't then you'll need to investigate further.

From memory, the red/ orange is for the mumberplate light. The blue/white is probably for the key lock in the door handle assembly.
Click to expand...

Just done this.......fingers, toes and everything else was crossed even the red/orange-black wires.......and yeh, the door lock didn’t release, but the window went down the full way...
Hmmm! Done something, just not what I was excepting.

:-|
 
HoldFast said:
Just done this.......fingers, toes and everything else was crossed even the red/orange-black wires.......and yeh, the door lock didn’t release, but the window went down the full way...
Hmmm! Done something, just not what I was excepting.

:-|
Click to expand...

Ok. That sounds like some other wire has been cut. There's a position switch in the motor, that tells the CCU the window is low enough for the door to open. Once the window is at the correct position to allow opening, the window should stop and the door lock should release. Your window motor obviously didn't tell the CCU that it was at the correct place, so the lock didn't release.
You really need to get all the wiring out of the door and rear panel to check for damage.
 
I can't remember the wire colours but from the testing I did on my last car the system works as follows.
You lift the handle and operate a micro switch. This causes 5V to go to the CCU. The CCU then sends 12V to the window and as Nodge says the window drops. Once down the CCU sends 12V to the door lock and the door opens. Then a switch in the lock mechanism turns on the interior light and tells the CCU the boot door is open.
There are lots of places for this to go wrong including poor connections and faulty mechanisms.
 
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Alibro said:
As Nodge says, you need the tailgate door handle to open the door. Usually the bolts holding the handle on rot through the boot door and the handle comes off in your hand, so after you purchase a handle you'll have lots of fun fitting it. In the meantime you can open the door by pulling down the solenoid. I can't remember if you need to remove the plastic cover or just stick your fingers round the side and pull it down though.
Here is a piccie of what you're dealing with.
View attachment 132390
Just took a look at the photos and it looks pretty typical. :eek:
Click to expand...

Alibro:

Getting into the solenoid was the only way to get this tailgate open.
Thank goodness it’s now open.

I had thoughts of the grinder coming into action.
Phew!
 
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