Freelander 1 Tailgate break light screw Torx damaged
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DevonGuy
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+1 for this advice. Drill really slow with plenty of lube (WD40 will do) so you don’t heat it up too much. The screw shouldn’t be too tight after that, if I remember right they’re into nylon captive nuts. I replaced all those screws with stainless equivalents to delay a recurrence.Well you reallymangled thatHad a good go at that then
Drill it slowly slightly bigger than the hole you have left till the head drops off, hopefully that leaves enough stub to get hold of to get out.
J
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Similar problem on the Disco 2.
Anything that will give you more grip like a bigger type of torx or a phillips etc might help.
As a last resort you could try touching a soldering iron to the end of it which will heat it up just enough to free it off a bit from the nylon it is tightened into, then once out at least you will not have damaged the light cluster. You may or may not be able to easily reuse the fitting it is screwed into. I seem to remember I had to use a screw the enxt size up to hold it when I put it back in.
Horrible things!
But drilling it is a much more "proper" way of going on.
Anything that will give you more grip like a bigger type of torx or a phillips etc might help.
As a last resort you could try touching a soldering iron to the end of it which will heat it up just enough to free it off a bit from the nylon it is tightened into, then once out at least you will not have damaged the light cluster. You may or may not be able to easily reuse the fitting it is screwed into. I seem to remember I had to use a screw the enxt size up to hold it when I put it back in.
Horrible things!
But drilling it is a much more "proper" way of going on.
I’d be inclined to dremmel the head off. Remove the other screws as normal and the light unit should then pull out, leaving the damaged screw thread remaining, sitting proud of the nylon. Should then be able to remove that with pliers.
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Without looking at the pic I was thinking of the screws buried deep in the plastic of the outer colouresd part of the rear light cluster, the ones you have to remove to get the cluster out, no way you could get a Dremel in.
BUT, where his is he could use a junior hacksaw to cut a slot, (or a Dremel!) and then just use an ornery screwdriver to shift it!
and of course there are always left hand threaded drill bits, the heat of which combined with the thread will often simply wind the screw out.
DevonGuy
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Not to over-egg the pudding, but my current go-to in these circumstances is the oscillating multi tool with a metal-cutting blade. It enables me to cut an accurate slot in the top of the rounded-out screw with much less heat than a grinder. Then a good sharp screwdriver will wind the offending item out easily. I do this on a daily basis: requires a firm grip but has yet to fail me.
Yep - done this also with a very fine dremmel wheel.
Also another way of getting the offending screw out
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not cheap
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But might get the wife to get me one for Christmas!!
Oscillating Multi tools Archives - Worx UK
Worx Oscillating tools are arguably the most versatile piece of equipment in your toolbox. Compatible with Power Share batteries. Learn More!
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DevonGuy
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Some of the stuff I work on (no names, no pack-drillnot cheap
But might get the wife to get me one for Christmas!!Oscillating Multi tools Archives - Worx UK
Worx Oscillating tools are arguably the most versatile piece of equipment in your toolbox. Compatible with Power Share batteries. Learn More!
), is badly corroded or just plain rotten. I hummed and ha’d about this but eventually got the 12v Milwaukee. The tool is fairly dear but very smooth. The TCT blade is £20 but lasting well so far.
saxavordian
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Or simply angrily drill 16mm holes around the torx bolt, then file the residue so you can remove problem area. Next find an arc welder and metal plate to new hole. Next with a fire extinguisher stop the fire spreading to the front. Allow it vent from the smoke residue. Next use a pilot drill about 1mm and then use a tap and die set to fashion new thread. Hopefully the 15mm bolt will suffice as a replacement.
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I got the Bosch version - I use their 18v range for tools and have enough batteries now that I can just get the items bare.Some of the stuff I work on (no names, no pack-drill
Great tool - not yet had to use it on the car, but loads of use around the house on various diy projects.
DevonGuy
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Bosch make great stuff, my 18v drill is 12 years old and still on its original batteries. I use Milwaukee 12v because of the compact format as I work in confined spaces. The Bosch hard metal blade for the multitool is excellent quality!
It's 16 or 18 Watts, but I can't remember which. I changed mine to LED, which worked much better.
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