Swivel Pin Bolt Removal

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landychimp

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Newbie defender owner so please be gentle :eek: I've searched around and consulted the gods of Haynes but hoped someone could clarify for me.

Attempted to replace drivers side swivel this weekend and fell at the first hurdle. I'm trying to avoid having to bleed the brakes and a lot of guides suggest removing the caliper by removing the two rear bolts and two top bolts (top swivel i think)

However....

How do I (or can I)get to the second top bolt without removing the brake line?

I can get a spanner to it but can't get enough grip to break the threadlock and even if I could it needs torquing down after so.....

Photo attached and any help much appreciated
 

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Cheers for the reply

I tried bending it but was unsure quite how much bending it would take before it was damaged and its more the nut on the end of the line fouling the nut rather than the brake line itself which i couldn't see how any bending would get it out of the way.

Seems a bizarre design but hey :D thats land rover
 
You dont have to remove the caliper but it makes it more accessible. Just bend the brake line and take out the bolts which will let you move that mounting bracket completely out of the way
 
Hi Flat,
Because of the mounting bracket only the top 1/2 - 2/3 of the bolt is exposed and been pretty chewed up by previous owner. There is not enough space between the bolt and bracket to get a ratchet spanner in between. Plus once refitted it need torquing down so the socket needs to get in there one way or another.
 
It's a typical piece of Land Rover thinking i.e. rubbish design. The real solution is to slot the bracket that holds the brake pipe to the top swivel bearing bolts. Then you can loosen the flexible brake pipe lock nut and the whole thing lifts away without disturbing the swivel bearings. Of course you have to have the thing dismantled to make the mod' but it is worth doing.
 
Funny you should mention that walderdhelf, went in for a brew after battling with it for an hour and thought the very same. Even went back out to check the bracket wasn't slotted!.
 
... like waldershelf said, disconnect the brake pipe. File a slot in the bracket and it'll be a lot easier next time. I know you don't want to bleed the brakes but it's not that bad really... 10 mins tops if you have both wheels off already. It's worth doing. I've done mine.
 
Last edited:
What they forget to tell you is that you will need a 13mm 12-spline socket for the caliper bolts, and whilst you are at it you might as well get the 14mm 12-spline for the disc bolts.

As far as the brake pipe is concerned, I use an over offset spanner on mine ... can't remember the angle though, possibly 30deg?
 
13mm spanner and a little bit of heat and they come off very easy
and watch the series on youtube i told you about
 
Locky1978 said:
... like waldershelf said, disconnect the brake pipe. File a slot in the bracket and it'll be a lot easier next time. I know you don't want to bleed the brakes but it's not that bad really... 10 mins tops if you have both wheels off already. It's worth doing. I've done mine.
Click to expand...

File a slot!! file a slot!! This is a Land Rover get the bloody angle grinder on it.
 
Finally got it off today!, bending the bracket pretty much broke it so new one on the way plus the brake line is pretty much rusted solid so might renew that while I'm in there.

What's everyone's opinion on braided brake hoses?
 
landychimp said:
Finally got it off today!, bending the bracket pretty much broke it so new one on the way plus the brake line is pretty much rusted solid so might renew that while I'm in there.

What's everyone's opinion on braided brake hoses?
Click to expand...

When I fit flexible hoses I always fit B F Goodrich stainless hoses with stainless fittings. Only for the sake of authenticity would I fit OE and never anything from the infamous blue box.
 
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