Swivel Ball seal replacement

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this is how i did it...click me

remove the whole thing in one go do it on the bench...easy
Screenshot 2023-06-28 at 18.05.50.jpg
 
Dr Strangeglove said:
I think it's a 14mm 12 point. I used an aviation spanner to start them going. I then used a ratchet spanner but make sure you get a reversible one as if you undo it too far you won't be able to get the spanner off!

You have to undo them all a little bit at a time as the screw head comes too far to remove the spanner.

Also remember you may loose some oil from the diff. Don't forget the gaskets. Perhaps replace the bolts or if not, don't forget the locktit
Click to expand...
+1 for the reversable ratchet......
 
marjon said:
So have you decided to strip the hub housing all the way down or are you going with your original plan?
if you are going with your original plan then that kit is overkill. That said spares on a shelf is never bad:).
I would also recommend at least a set of bolts for 1 side for brake calipers and swivel ball to axle, and hub nut (if its a staked 1) ;).and buy a socket it will save your knuckles and heartache. And build your box of shiny things:).

If and when you dig in there are always things that come up, if somebody has been in before the nut may have no staking left you can use, If you get stuck and mangle a bolt (we all do:oops:) you are then waiting for spares.

How are you flexi brake pipes cos once you start to flex them outside their normal you may find they need looking at. Have you cleaned your balls off;) to see their actual condition?

Personally If you are hesitant at this (at this time) I would be ready to try the split the seal method as you find you cant get bolts off or are mangling to many, I see no reason for it not to work, it will then give you time to get to know it and build confidence. Will also give you insight into why we all own big hammers:).

You can see how fast a simple job grows arms and legs.

But hey we love em:vb-groan2:


J
Click to expand...
if you gonna put your hand in the cookie jar, might as well put it in right up to the elbow.....;)
 
Nuffer said:
Thanks for all the replies, a few questions:

Haynes manual often references up to 1999 model, or after 1999 model, my TD5 is a 1999 model 😂. Is that referring to 300TDi vs TD5 or is not that simple? Would a TD5 have a 64mm locknut & adjusting nut for example?
If I do take it all to bits, would this kit be sufficient for consumables? https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/defender-swivel-housing-repair-kit-without-housing-with-abs/
PR-90 is on it's way, what else would you recommend I have to hand before I start?
What grease should I get?

I'm fairly competent with basic car maintenance but this is pushing my confidence a little 🤓

Cheers

John
Click to expand...
its a doddle, seriously its just like this but heavier and more oil, if you can change a wheel you can change a swivel seal...
PS use the haynes manual for firelighters, download the LR workshop manual for free
Click here

Screenshot 2023-06-28 at 18.26.58.jpg
 
With the socket, try it on and feel the fit of it. The quality of the socket makes a difference. I had tired bolts on my brake calipers and the tightest fit was a 13mm quality socket.

Unfortunately my bolts were beyond undoing with a socket. I ended up having to remove mine with one of the nut removal sockets - that was after splitting the caliper with a grinder, applying lots of plusgas, drilling the rear of the bolt and applying heat! Turned into a bit of a job!

Beware of mission creep....
 
Nuffer said:
Well I went for the easy route but the bearings are shot so have to wait for them now. Thanks for all the advice, turns out the most important tool is a big hammer 🔨
View attachment 291869
Click to expand...
Looks like you're having fun. I think for people used to working on smaller cars, everything's a bit bigger, a bit rustier and needs a bit more force to get it apart or back together.

Yes, I find that it's a good idea to replace as many bearings and seals as I can get at whenever I have the Land Rover apart. Then at least you know they've been done and should be OK for a few years.
 
Even if you get famous name brands (e.g. Corteco seals, NTN or Timken bearings) it doesn't add a whole lot to the cost of the job, and depending on the mileage you do, they should last you at least a couple of years if not four or five.
 
Nuffer said:
If you look closely behind the trolley Jack you will see an axle stand hiding there. Belt and braces 😂
Click to expand...
Belt and braces is a good option! None of us want our trucks coming down, even if not under it. Even when I use axle stands I leave the jack in position (with the pressure off) just in case.
 
Well, someone said beware of scope creep... so far my shopping list has grown to:

brakes disks
pads
drive member
hub
CV joint
Lots of new bolts

It was a mess in there, not even looked at the drivers side yet!

1688731435162.png

1688731457045.png

1688731476942.png

1688731517965.png
 
Scope creep is bad, scope evolution and innovation is expected.
If you deliver at the end what you expected to at the beginning, you did not do it well!
 
Nuffer said:
If you look closely behind the trolley Jack you will see an axle stand hiding there. Belt and braces 😂
Click to expand...
yep i see it you have the widow maker type, careful not to knock that laver its easily done and then there goes your legs.

lol Tubular with cross pins are the way to go!
 
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