SWB re-chassis

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my understanding is the bolt in xmember is an improvement, I can't see any reason why the chassis should rot sooner as long as it is looked after.

presumably the new chassis is galvanised anyway?
 
Engine out!







I need to get rid of the chassis. If anyone wants it, make me an offer or its gonna get weighed in



Had new dumb irons at some point, i think. They look good.


Had some repairs at the back


but the rear cross member is knackered
 
A few questions as I think I may go for a complete chassis replacement on mine:

I notice that you have the axle stands supporting the chassis almost underneath the bulkhead and no front axles in place. With the engine still fitted, is it stable like this? I assumed the weight of the engine would cause it to tip forwards.

How much does the rear tub weigh? can two people easily move it?

Does anyone know mow many people it would take to move the chassis itself?
 
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Hi.

The axle stands went in when it still had the axles and springs attached which limits where the stands can go. I've had no problem with stability at all, engine in, out or during removal.

The tub is mostly ali so it pretty light for it's size, just cumbersome. I got it off singlehandedly but would have preferred a spare pair of hands. It would be easy with 2 people.

With the chassis on it's own l (weak and feeble) can pick either end up with the other still on the stands. This makes me think it can be picked up with 1 person at each end. I don't think you'd want to move it far, but it seems possible!

Best of luck with the refurb, get some pics up of any progress! :)
 
Bit of an update:

Got the chassis completely stripped. I offered it to the forum but no takers, so I cut it up with a small angle grinder and it went to the scrap heap - £15 :mad:



Anyway, I've started stripping the rear axle down for a bit of a refurb. I've got new seals, bearing & gaskets to go back together but wanted to give it a good coat of paint first.

I got wire brushing a notice a pin hole in the diff pan :rolleyes: great



So what can be done with it? Is it possible to repair the hole, weld in a new pan (I will have to get someone to do it) or replace the axle casing...? Opinions please. :scratching_chin:

I also managed to shear off a bleed nipple off a brake slave. Would have to be an original Girling anorl. :argue: :mad:





Beyond repair?? Again, advise please. I would rather repair this inc a reseal kit if poss.

Bit of a miserable post, but I dont mean it to be. Looking forward to cracking on with it and getting another parts order in! :D :cool:
 
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That happened to me before I replaced my brake cylinders. With dissimilar metal corrosion between the steel and aluminium, I would think you would be lucky to ever get it out without stripping the threads. The threads may be corroded away to white powder anyway.

I replaced all four cylinders, and made sure I put plenty of copper grease on the bleed nipples on the new ones. The inside of the old cylinders is likely corroded or scored anyway. With something as vital as the brakes, I'd say that replacing with all new components is probably a safer bet.

Also, could you post a photo of the engine mount bolted the right-hand side of the engine? This mount on my S3 looks to have been modified at some time. If possible, I would like to see a photo of the original to be able to confirm.
 
Take the seals out of the brake cylinder then warm it up with blow lamp or in the oven then try removing the stub as aluminium expands more than steel often doable.
 
Regarding the Diff Pan... you could fill it with a bit of weld as a stop gap but probably won't last very long.... I replaced both of mine with these heavier duty versions from Steve Parker (see link below) and found them to be excellent

Axle Diff Pan
 
Thanks for the comments guys, much appreciated!

I'm sorry, I forgot to take any pics of today's work (prop shaft overhaul) including engine mount. Tbh, my engine is sat on a pile of card board and carpet at the minute, so I dunno how much help a pic might be!

Now for today's blunder... I've made a mess of the cup housing on one of the prop flanges. Looking on here it's suggested that they are not available individually any more, can any confirm or got one going spare...? :eek: :banghead: :rolleyes:
 
Bit of an update:

I got hold of a second hand axle casing from Jai on here and have cleaned it up and repainted it. I went to start rebuilding as I have cleaned and painted everything else, only to find I have ordered bearings and seals for the earlier type axle :mad:
So, I have a set of BNIB Bearmack beraings (2x Inner, 2x Outer) and a set of bearmack oil seals for series axles up to 1980 for sale, I'll get some part numbers and a price up this evening, hopefully.

Other than that, the props are ready to go back together. The yoke isnt as bad as I imagined, and after cleaning it up with a file I'll see how I get on with it.

If anyones interested in the bearings, please let me know by PM. I will put a sale thread in the Parts forum.
 
Pictures and part numbers of bits up for grabs:

2 x hub seals - RTC 3510
2 x inner bearings - RTC3416R
2 x hub bearings - RTC3426R

Cost me £40, will do for £30 delivered.

Ta



 
So, fingers crossed I've a buyer for the bearings come pay day.

Spent Saturday in the shed getting the back axle back together. Slow progress but seemed to go back together ok.

Hubs rebuilt with new bearings and seals.
Stub axles and backing plates onto axle case
Hubs back onto axle
bearings nipped up
Got the final drive housing back on to the axle and picked up some new nuts today

I couldnt get much torque on the inner bearing adjuster nut as the axle is on the bench. The bearings are full packed with grease and are quite stiff to turn the ubs anyway. I couldnt get them to tighten up any more. I dont know if they have been adjusted properly so havent knocked the tabs over yet. Any advice?

The hub nuts are flush with the end of the stub axle, this about right?

Prop rebuild next and onto front axle clean up and rebuild!:biggrin1:
Best start ordering some parts :)

IMAG06251.jpg
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You need to slacken the inner nut till the hub turns freely without any lift on the hub, without a dial gauge it is trial and error especially as when you tighten the outer nut the inner nut moves also.
Even with a dial gauge its not guaranteed to be right.
If the nuts are too tight the bearings will heat up if too slack bearings will wear quickly due to the shock movement when driving.
Worth putting a wheel on to give the bearing some weight as the freshly packed grease can give a false tight feeling.
Doug
 
Right!

After a brief interlude (7 months...) Im back on the rebuild. Unfortunately, not a huge amount has happened in that time, other than a change of location for the rebuild. I've moved from a small shed with mud floor and no electric to a much bigger unit with concrete floor, yard, water and electricity, so I dont have to make tea on the camping stove :pound: Its a much better place to work and I've got an old office strip light over my newly made work bench...previously using some old scaff boards :(

As rented, with additional flora



I've virtually completed the refurb of the rear axle. I just need a new brake cylinder as discussed previously. I went in strong and the bleed nipple is now goosed. No way its coming out, and the inner bore is rough as previously suggested it would be.



I've got the front axle on the bench now and I've been cleaning some of the crap off to get stripping it down. (I've been looking at renting a steam cleaner but they're 70 odd quid a day :( ).

Current issue is getting the castlated, round nut off the end of the half shafts. I gather they are supposed to just spin off, but I've been going at one with a hammer and punch with no luck, as the shaft just turns with it, despite locking it all up with the FWH mechanisms and stopping the diff drive flange, any ideas? Bigger hammer??



Ive also been having trouble with the cat.



:D

As ever, comments/criticisms, motivational/inspirational speeches welcome
 
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Aye,those Land Rover cats can be troublesome.
 

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Can you not remove flange with the shaft then you can grip the shaft to hold it still.
That front axle looks to have no swivels!!!!!
 
This is a great post, Rubins4.
My son wants to restore a series land rover, but has no experience, and I have lots of non land rover experience. We are both looking forward to it.
Another similarity is that we will have to rent a barn to do the restoration as well.
I can't offer any practical advise, but I can cheer you along a bit. It looks like it is going well so far, so keep up the good work and keep posting the photos. I have learnt a few things already.
 
There are swivels there, I assure you! I have to rebuild them :violin:

I think you're right, I cant see any reason why the shafts cant come straight out now (why didnt I think of that??)

Thanks for the support Iam... its nice to share these things and even better to hear that its assisting someone. I also have some non-landrover experience, but these things are relatively straight forward, compared to EFi, dual clutch gear boxes etc. There is also so much information and help out there that you can always get by.

One thing I had to remind myself is that its best to look at each bit in isolation. I was staring at shelves of bits the other day and thought what the hell am I doing?! Best approach imo is to just think 'I'm rebuilding an axle' or whatever, get it completed then move on to the next. If I stripped everything down at once I would be royally buggered.:doh:

Look forward to your rebuild thread :)
 
Defeated twice by that bloody half shaft!

The drive flange came off but left the shaft it, which has about 5mm of play in, before it stops dead. I think it's the steering uj against some part of the swivel housing assembly. No amount of twisting, pulling or swearing helped.

Some one please put me out of my misery. Pics of what I'm looking at up tomorrow.
 
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