Swapping a 300tdi engine. Like for like

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

mcmoonter

New Member
Posts
43
I've completed another 500 miles or so since I replaced the head gasket. No cooling woes, but the engine still feels down on power.

I noticed when the head was off there were some scores in a couple of the bores, deep enough that I could feel them with my finger nail.

So, I found a replacement engine on ebay. Rebuilt using a new block and head, it had completed only 7000 miles before the car was written off in an accident. The owner assured me it was a very good engine. It was local and at a good price so I went for it, and won it.

So I need to do some forward planning to go ahead with the engine swap. I've googled engine removals and there is some good advice on there.

Removing the engine mounts and lowering the engine to get at the bell housing nuts and bolts looks helpful.

When removing the replacement engine they cut through some sections of the wiring loom. Mine is complete and is compatible. I just had a look at its routing and am wondering if there any issues with getting it out of the way complete to remove and replace the engine?

Are there any other tips that would help in advance?

Thanks.​
 
A methodical approach is needed.
Label everything, tuck it well out of the way, boxes help for stuff you remove.
take photos to help reassembly, theres always the "where the f does this go"
A couple of pair of eyes and hands helps.
How you going to lift and remove engine? hoist and push car out of the way?
Never done a lr engine swap but i'm sure you'll get more pointers


James
 
if new engine has been stood dry for a while get new water pump,might be worth a new clutch kjit,release arm,cam belt ,check core plugs dont look corroded no coolant stains on lock from p gasket behind alternator,remove rad,fit new engine without fan and have a bar and 27mm or 1,1/16 socket to turn engine on crank bolt
 
yeah should be a pretty easy switch as you won't have to do any magicary with the pipes exhaust ext. your old loom should be fine for the swap, and i would change at least the clutch whilst you're at it, they're fairly cheap, and it'll be w whole lot easier to do it whilst the engine is out trust me, did a clutch arm swap on my dads disco, but he decided to not change the clutch, what happens 2 weeks blows the clutch ao another 4 hours work to change right PITA, and possibly water pump/cambelt but if its been recently rebuilt these may have been done already, you should be able to do the whole thing in a day if your fancy with a spanner but make sure its right not just rushed its the heart of your landy.
 
Thanks for the input folks. I have a epco engine hoist and a pit, so hopefully I should be able to to get to everything. I've been down the engine swap many times before with an old series IIA, so I'm not going in blind. Not being able to remove te wings and front panel will make access a bit more tricky.

The clutch was new when the engine was rebuilt as was the cambelt. I'll check the P gasket to, but I'd expect that would have been changed with the new block. The core plugs are all shiny and new.

I just need to set aside a quiet weekend.
 
Back
Top