Disco 2 SVS mod
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sierrafery
Well-Known Member
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- 17,875
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- Arad/Romania
That was bad luck 
... i hope that at least you cut out the connector and prolonged out the wires from the switches not spliced into the circuit to the plug
... i hope that at least you cut out the connector and prolonged out the wires from the switches not spliced into the circuit to the plug
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- 44,881
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- East Dorset
Oh my God!
I have this job to do since a few days ago and from the loads of posts about this I got the message that you have to splice into two wires under the block, prolong one out to earth and the other to the yellow and green wire going to the plug.
Is this wrong? and if so, what should I do? i have read @sierrafery 's question to you and am now totally in the dark.
If you don't want to reply to me at length, could either of you put up a link which i can understand, me being Mr Thicko when it comes to electrickery?
Cabling is correct but I had great problems with the allen bolts. If I did it again I would get plenty of brake fuild and take the block out completely.
You may be lucky.
SF will recommend a guide
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- 44,881
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- East Dorset
Ta mate, and thanks for the quick reply!
I unfortunately only have the one of everything and am in France.
(why does it ALWAYS feck up only when I am here?)
I can get hold of brake fluid, no probs, Is the procedure for bleeding the brakes/abs block, on RAVE do you know? Or even Haynes (I must be mad to think that!)
I DO have a Foxwell which may well have it on, if that is the only way to do it.
Ta again for the reassurance re the wiring.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
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- 17,875
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- Arad/Romania
Hi Stanley, there are tutorials where they splice into the wires from switches to the plug on the SVS pack, that's WRONG, you have to cut out the switch and prolonge the wires out to YG wire and earth also cut the YG wire not splice in it as the modulator's internals to be completely bypassed... see attachment, you can neglect that additional connector from the first pic, it seems unnecessary to me and do as in the 2'nd and 3'rd pics with the wires, it's irrelevant which goes to earth and to YG wire
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- 5,522
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- Surrey / Hants border
@Stanleysteamer , I followed the method that SF posted above, works well.
Ideally you'd take the block out, but there is just about enough room underneath the loosened off valve block to get the switch pack out, and it's better than having to bleed all the brakes after.
Ideally you'd take the block out, but there is just about enough room underneath the loosened off valve block to get the switch pack out, and it's better than having to bleed all the brakes after.
As long as you don't ruin an Allen bolt.
They are pretty tight and the back one does not have enough room for my socket.
Had to use molegrips roughly 90 min for me to remove.
- Posts
- 44,881
- Location
- East Dorset
Thanks for all your advice guys.
I have looked at all the stuff on bleeding the block should I absolutely have to, including a post from @sierrafery yesterday on another forum and although i have a Foxwell i hope I don't have to do this!
It appears that I should completely remove the central switch of the three and simply wire one of the other two to earth/ground and the other to the YG wire, which seems simple enough.
I note the YG wire should be cut, All I am worried about is that I wire my wire from the switches under the block to the correct part of the cut YG wire. I take it the correct part would be the bit that leads to the plug on the block? It isn't obvious, as I 'm not looking under the bonnet. And the pics in the Adobe thing don't make it clear altho bizarrely he makes it incredibly clear where to earth the other one.
Anyway, thanks for all your help guys. I'll let you know how I get on, once I pluck up the courage to do it.
I have looked at all the stuff on bleeding the block should I absolutely have to, including a post from @sierrafery yesterday on another forum and although i have a Foxwell i hope I don't have to do this!
It appears that I should completely remove the central switch of the three and simply wire one of the other two to earth/ground and the other to the YG wire, which seems simple enough.
I note the YG wire should be cut, All I am worried about is that I wire my wire from the switches under the block to the correct part of the cut YG wire. I take it the correct part would be the bit that leads to the plug on the block? It isn't obvious, as I 'm not looking under the bonnet. And the pics in the Adobe thing don't make it clear altho bizarrely he makes it incredibly clear where to earth the other one.
Anyway, thanks for all your help guys. I'll let you know how I get on, once I pluck up the courage to do it.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 17,875
- Location
- Arad/Romania
You have to connect the wire from the SV switch to the part of the YG wire which goes toward the ECU not to the modulaor as the signal must get to the ECU and the modulator side free: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...ring-mod-option-b-graphic-explanation.272156/
- Posts
- 44,881
- Location
- East Dorset
Cheers @sierrafery .
I lay in bed last night and although I don't yet fully understand how the block works or what is in it, I eventually worked out that I was probably wrong to think any signal had to go back to the block.
So thanks for making this clear to me!
I'll have a look at the link now and see if I can understand a bit more.
Ta mate!!
- Posts
- 44,881
- Location
- East Dorset
Having read this and , I have to admit, only partially understood it, I see there are critical resistances.
Does this mean I should check my connections with my multi-meter, before putting it all back together? Or do you think this is unlikely to cause a problem?
I would of course disconnect the batt before doing any thing like this but I don't want to cause any problems by doing this as I know modern stuff is ever so sensitive to unexpected or misplaced voltages.
I should say that I am used to checking connections on looms as I do this whenever I build a loom for a kit car, not wanting to have a connection buried in a loom and hidden in a car that later causes a problem.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
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- 17,875
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- Arad/Romania
You have to measure SVS resistances as shown in the tutorial, nothing else
- Posts
- 44,881
- Location
- East Dorset
Happy to report that, thanks to warnings on here, I managed to get the offending base unit of the block this afternoon.
Heeding remarks as to the difficulty of undoing the Allen headed bolts I made (well modified) two existing tools into one that did the job.
So to the left we have the offending item and to the right a 10mm ratchet spanner with a 4mm Allen key thing in it. I put tape round it to stop it slipping through the head of the ratchet.
Have to agree it's a right PITA to do this.
Disconnected the main plug on the "unit" then the cylindrical one on the side, no idea what it's for.
Then took the lines from the top of the "unit" off the clips on the bulkhead, which were not easy, until I sprayed them with WD. Some of the plastic bits bust, as you'd expect but there's enough left to clip em in even if I have to use tie-wraps.
More skinned knuckles etc than I've had for ages. Plus dropped tools, for which I am very grateful for my extendable magnet!
Oh and my "mirror on a stick" (thanks step-dottir for the pack of these things)!
Now comes the soldering. I was a bit shocked at the skinnyness of the wires, and then had to cast about for suitable wire to solder to them. Not being in the UK I have no automotive wire though I have tons of household stuff, but most of it solid, not thin, wound stuff. But I did find some which will have to do.
Thanks for all your help and yes, without my "ratchet Allen key" the job would have been far more of a feckin nightmare as it took ages to wind each one out even with my homemade tool!
Heeding remarks as to the difficulty of undoing the Allen headed bolts I made (well modified) two existing tools into one that did the job.
So to the left we have the offending item and to the right a 10mm ratchet spanner with a 4mm Allen key thing in it. I put tape round it to stop it slipping through the head of the ratchet.
Have to agree it's a right PITA to do this.
Disconnected the main plug on the "unit" then the cylindrical one on the side, no idea what it's for.
Then took the lines from the top of the "unit" off the clips on the bulkhead, which were not easy, until I sprayed them with WD. Some of the plastic bits bust, as you'd expect but there's enough left to clip em in even if I have to use tie-wraps.
More skinned knuckles etc than I've had for ages. Plus dropped tools, for which I am very grateful for my extendable magnet!
Oh and my "mirror on a stick" (thanks step-dottir for the pack of these things)!
Now comes the soldering. I was a bit shocked at the skinnyness of the wires, and then had to cast about for suitable wire to solder to them. Not being in the UK I have no automotive wire though I have tons of household stuff, but most of it solid, not thin, wound stuff. But I did find some which will have to do.
Thanks for all your help and yes, without my "ratchet Allen key" the job would have been far more of a feckin nightmare as it took ages to wind each one out even with my homemade tool!
PopPops
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 481
- Location
- Fareham, Hampshire
Well done!Happy to report that, thanks to warnings on here, I managed to get the offending base unit of the block this afternoon.
Heeding remarks as to the difficulty of undoing the Allen headed bolts I made (well modified) two existing tools into one that did the job.
View attachment 264348
So to the left we have the offending item and to the right a 10mm ratchet spanner with a 4mm Allen key thing in it. I put tape round it to stop it slipping through the head of the ratchet.
View attachment 264349
Have to agree it's a right PITA to do this.
Disconnected the main plug on the "unit" then the cylindrical one on the side, no idea what it's for.
Then took the lines from the top of the "unit" off the clips on the bulkhead, which were not easy, until I sprayed them with WD. Some of the plastic bits bust, as you'd expect but there's enough left to clip em in even if I have to use tie-wraps.
More skinned knuckles etc than I've had for ages. Plus dropped tools, for which I am very grateful for my extendable magnet!
Oh and my "mirror on a stick" (thanks step-dottir for the pack of these things)!
Now comes the soldering. I was a bit shocked at the skinnyness of the wires, and then had to cast about for suitable wire to solder to them. Not being in the UK I have no automotive wire though I have tons of household stuff, but most of it solid, not thin, wound stuff. But I did find some which will have to do.
Thanks for all your help and yes, without my "ratchet Allen key" the job would have been far more of a feckin nightmare as it took ages to wind each one out even with my homemade tool!
For the wire, I stripped a bit of domestic (0.5mm?) mains flex and used the green/yellow for the YG connection and brown for the "ground", purely for camouflage.
- Posts
- 2,061
- Location
- Hertfordshire
Hi Stan, as pop pops says well done & I hope it sorts everything. Do you know if this mod is only for the three amigos ? As on mine prior to me doing the o/s fr. hub I had that farting noise from the modulator & the TC light illuminate briefly when reversing off my drive on full lock or going over the odd pot hole. It seemed ok for a month or so but ever since it's been doing the same thing & the Foxwell tells me it's to do with low pressure in the modulator (or something like that) on the o/s rear circuit.Happy to report that, thanks to warnings on here, I managed to get the offending base unit of the block this afternoon.
Heeding remarks as to the difficulty of undoing the Allen headed bolts I made (well modified) two existing tools into one that did the job.
View attachment 264348
So to the left we have the offending item and to the right a 10mm ratchet spanner with a 4mm Allen key thing in it. I put tape round it to stop it slipping through the head of the ratchet.
View attachment 264349
Have to agree it's a right PITA to do this.
Disconnected the main plug on the "unit" then the cylindrical one on the side, no idea what it's for.
Then took the lines from the top of the "unit" off the clips on the bulkhead, which were not easy, until I sprayed them with WD. Some of the plastic bits bust, as you'd expect but there's enough left to clip em in even if I have to use tie-wraps.
More skinned knuckles etc than I've had for ages. Plus dropped tools, for which I am very grateful for my extendable magnet!
Oh and my "mirror on a stick" (thanks step-dottir for the pack of these things)!
Now comes the soldering. I was a bit shocked at the skinnyness of the wires, and then had to cast about for suitable wire to solder to them. Not being in the UK I have no automotive wire though I have tons of household stuff, but most of it solid, not thin, wound stuff. But I did find some which will have to do.
Thanks for all your help and yes, without my "ratchet Allen key" the job would have been far more of a feckin nightmare as it took ages to wind each one out even with my homemade tool!
Do you think this mod will cure my problem ? I've never had the ABS or HDC lights on just that noise, TC light & a vibration on the brake pedal like the ABS is cutting in. All the best.
PopPops
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 481
- Location
- Fareham, Hampshire
The mod is for the SVS or shuttle valve switch error, I don’t think it is for other errors, but it does seem to need doing on all eventually.
