Suspension which one to buy?

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steven.k

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Tamworth
Just been told will be better to post in here .

Been looking at terrafirma +2 springs and +2 shocks all round (FOR MY DISCO 2)
And also +2 springs and +3 shocks
With the +2spring +3shock combo im assuming i will need dislocation cones was hoping someone would beable to guide me a little better as im relativly new to all this and was wondering if i need the bigger package or the +2 +2 would be sufficant enough or is there a better alternative
I plan on doing a bit of green laneing and some pay and play and the occasional flooding fun play
Any guidence and help willbe muchly appricated
 
Steven, sad as it is to say, you dont need a lift to go green laning. Fit some chunky 245 70 16s, remove tow hitch and off you go.
Lifting a vehicle is sometimes fine, sometimes it makes it awful to drive.
The 4” lift referred to in your other post would almost certainly be awful if not accompanied by expert advice and ££££s of suspension mods.
 
Why not simply put some decent tyres on it and try it as it is? You may be surprised what a Landy can do in normal set up. Even on pay and play.
Cheaper to begin with.
Unless deep down it is the look you are going for!;)
 
Okey i seem to be get the vibe of just stick some good tyres on it is it worth getting some steels instead of the alloys and what size tyre is best without chopping the car up still mite put some lift blocks on it just to satisfy my mind lol
 
steven.k said:
Okey i seem to be get the vibe of just stick some good tyres on it is it worth getting some steels instead of the alloys and what size tyre is best without chopping the car up still mite put some lift blocks on it just to satisfy my mind lol
Click to expand...
245/75R16 will fit no probs and not rub. I hear of people fitting 235/85R16 or 265/75R16 (both of these are stock Defender sizes). But I'm not sure if they have rubbing issues. Front bumper most likely.

With a Disco you don't really need to lift it to make it perform, but you are somewhat restricted on tyre size due to the body.

Alloys or steels will be equally fine off road.

I would 2nd giving the vehicle a go first and see how it performs. Then take it from there. It is very easy to lift a D2, but often a lot of the ways people do this result in a vehicle with less flex and less travel. Which ultimately makes them less capable off road.

Also with a D2 you will want to make sure the TCS is working. This makes a huge difference off road. Also find out if you have a centre diff lock. Early models had the mechanism but not the linkage (can be retro fitted). Late models had difflock as an option and middle age models were missing the linkage and mechniasm. I would say a working centre diff is more important than lifting the vehicle at this stage.

Off road you are likely to find the front bumper most prone to damage, but the rear bumper is also vulnerable, as can be the sills. I'd probably look to address these before lifting too. Although the types of terrain you are on will dictate the types of risk to damage.

For green laning you should need nothing more than a set of alterrain tyres on a 100% stock vehicle. Remember Green Laning is NOT off roading. You are on a public highway. And should stick to the prescribed route. Do not drive off of the lane. No green lane in the UK should be that taxing and if it is, then you may want to check that you are actually on a green lane.

I would also recommend sorting out some proper safe recovery points. No point getting yourself stuck and no way to be recovered. Lots of options, ensure they are secured to the vehicle with high tensile bolts. And get yourself a nice kinetic rope.
 
You don't need to go to extreme lifts or extreme tire sizes to improve an already capable car. First make sure your car is healthy mechanically (engine, gearbox, axles are getting stressed with bigger tires). Then sort out the fragile bits as mentioned above (bumpers, underbody protection) and recovery points (you will need them at some point or someone else will need to get help from you). If your transfer box has the locking bits inside is good to get the linkage to operate it (as mentioned already).
A sensible upgrade for me is a 2in lift from a known brand and a set of 235/85R16 A/T tires. This in my opinion will improve the capabilities of your vehicle without compromising longevity, reliability, consumption and road drivability. Add to that a Stage 2 remap and you have a really cool and pleasant to drive car.
 
300bhp/ton said:
245/75R16 will fit no probs and not rub. I hear of people fitting 235/85R16 or 265/75R16 (both of these are stock Defender sizes). But I'm not sure if they have rubbing issues. Front bumper most likely.

With a Disco you don't really need to lift it to make it perform, but you are somewhat restricted on tyre size due to the body.

Alloys or steels will be equally fine off road.

I would 2nd giving the vehicle a go first and see how it performs. Then take it from there. It is very easy to lift a D2, but often a lot of the ways people do this result in a vehicle with less flex and less travel. Which ultimately makes them less capable off road.

Also with a D2 you will want to make sure the TCS is working. This makes a huge difference off road. Also find out if you have a centre diff lock. Early models had the mechanism but not the linkage (can be retro fitted). Late models had difflock as an option and middle age models were missing the linkage and mechniasm. I would say a working centre diff is more important than lifting the vehicle at this stage.

Off road you are likely to find the front bumper most prone to damage, but the rear bumper is also vulnerable, as can be the sills. I'd probably look to address these before lifting too. Although the types of terrain you are on will dictate the types of risk to damage.

For green laning you should need nothing more than a set of alterrain tyres on a 100% stock vehicle. Remember Green Laning is NOT off roading. You are on a public highway. And should stick to the prescribed route. Do not drive off of the lane. No green lane in the UK should be that taxing and if it is, then you may want to check that you are actually on a green lane.

I would also recommend sorting out some proper safe recovery points. No point getting yourself stuck and no way to be recovered. Lots of options, ensure they are secured to the vehicle with high tensile bolts. And get yourself a nice kinetic rope.
Click to expand...
Great advice mate . Had a look turns out i got unlucky and dont have diff mech looking to source 1 and a linkage hear its a bit of a messy job but i work on hgv anyway so shouldnt be an issue
 
Michalis Karatzis said:
You don't need to go to extreme lifts or extreme tire sizes to improve an already capable car. First make sure your car is healthy mechanically (engine, gearbox, axles are getting stressed with bigger tires). Then sort out the fragile bits as mentioned above (bumpers, underbody protection) and recovery points (you will need them at some point or someone else will need to get help from you). If your transfer box has the locking bits inside is good to get the linkage to operate it (as mentioned already).
A sensible upgrade for me is a 2in lift from a known brand and a set of 235/85R16 A/T tires. This in my opinion will improve the capabilities of your vehicle without compromising longevity, reliability, consumption and road drivability. Add to that a Stage 2 remap and you have a really cool and pleasant to drive car.
Click to expand...
Im defo going for a 2inch lift i dont plan on going mad lol tyres you mentiond same width i wasnt sure if i needed slightly wider a lot of people have mentioned 265/75/16 on 8jx16 modulars but when ive rang to get prices some people have said put them on 7jx16 modulars as there better suited were as others will only put them on the 8j
 
8j will be fine for that width. They will fit on a 7 but the 8 is probably a better fit. Although you’d be hard pressed to know which it was when on the vehicle. What rims are you going for? You may want to get a slightly wider offset to enable you to get full steering lock without the tyres rubbing the front radius arms.

Too wide and they may stick out of the arches though or cause more rubbing/impacting under flex.
 
300bhp/ton said:
8j will be fine for that width. They will fit on a 7 but the 8 is probably a better fit. Although you’d be hard pressed to know which it was when on the vehicle. What rims are you going for? You may want to get a slightly wider offset to enable you to get full steering lock without the tyres rubbing the front radius arms.

Too wide and they may stick out of the arches though or cause more rubbing/impacting under flex.
Click to expand...
Was going to go for +25 offset so hopefully that should stop the rubbing as been told the origanls are +57
 
steven.k said:
Im defo going for a 2inch lift i dont plan on going mad lol tyres you mentiond same width i wasnt sure if i needed slightly wider a lot of people have mentioned 265/75/16 on 8jx16 modulars but when ive rang to get prices some people have said put them on 7jx16 modulars as there better suited were as others will only put them on the 8j
Click to expand...

235/85r16 and 265/75r16 have the same diameter (same look from the side, same lift) so is a matter of what you prefer having in mind where you are going to use them. Wider is not always better when off roading.

A narrower tire is less taxing on the engine, axles etc as it is lighter. Fuel consumption should also be a bit affected too. And I'm told is easier to get them balanced which is important if you do a lot of driving on tarmac/motorway.
 
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