Series 3 Suspension bushes

Can any one give me the definitive part numbers for the chassis bushes needed for a SWB series 3 (1982). I would like to fit OEM/genuine parts but cannot find anyone supplying them and the poly bush sets are just confusing me. The polybush sets use one part number for the whole set but it was my understanding that there two different parts for the front and rear springs (569746 & 548205). Can any one clarify this for me?

The bushes that go in the springs are all the same, front and rear, 88 and 109. Part no: 548205.
The only bushes that differ are the ones that go through the chassis at the front, 109s are different to 88s. Part no for 88 front chassis bush is: 569746. Chassis bushes at the rear are: 548205 - same as the spring bushes.
So you need: 548205 x 10 and: 569746 x 2.
Polybushes are a lot easier to fit and re-fit... just saying.

LR Direct sell them, https://www.lrdirect.com/548205-Spring-Bush/?keep_https=yes you might change your mind about genuine ones when you see the prices but the others are much cheaper including OEM

Extreedoc said:

The bushes that go in the springs are all the same, front and rear, 88 and 109. Part no: 548205.
The only bushes that differ are the ones that go through the chassis at the front, 109s are different to 88s. Part no for 88 front chassis bush is: 569746. Chassis bushes at the rear are: 548205 - same as the spring bushes.
So you need: 548205 x 10 and: 569746 x 2.
Polybushes are a lot easier to fit and re-fit... just saying.

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Thank you, the new springs come with bushes fitted so it is just the chassis bushes I am looking for, and you have confirmed what I had found. I know polys are easier to fit but I would rather keep things original. However depending on how much a bush puller is going to set me back it may end up being polybushes for ease of fitment.

A bush puller is good but not essential, we, (I was in the trade) used to burn out the rubber then hacksaw through the steel casing. Prep the holes with anything necessary, round file, rotary wire brush, that kind of thing, then pull the new bushes in with tubes, sockets and threaded rod. It's been many decades since I last did some and I wouldn't bother with the traditional type again. I have found the polybushes to be much better. Originality? Who is going to know, or care for that matter?

The bush holes can get ovaled which can make fitting the new bushes a bit of a struggle. Recommend you ream the holes (32mm reamer). It’s a filthy job and I’m going to have to do the front springs on mine this year.

Have a look at Dongocroft, they were selling OEM and aftermarket.
https://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/SuspensionParts-Series2and3.html

John S said:

The bush holes can get ovaled which can make fitting the new bushes a bit of a struggle. Recommend you ream the holes (32mm reamer). It’s a filthy job and I’m going to have to do the front springs on mine this year.

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How do you ream the holes? Unless I am looking at the wrong thing a hand reamer is very expensive and would rather not have to buy one.

I would be wary of reaming as you are removing metal and its not easy to see how much is left. If the chassis hole is a bit oval my prefernce would be to press the bush in as is. The outer sleeve will deform but this will be taken up by the rubber. Bear in mind that even if the hole is slightly oval the circumfernce will be the same and it is this that will determin the interferance fit as the bush is a thin walled tube. If its really oval then it would be better to weld in a new tube. If you really want to ream they are about £30:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ADJUSTAB...998772?hash=item41b801c834:g:BTwAAMXQ0pNQ-7YD

A drill mounted reamer is fine. The 32mm diameter is the hole size. It doesn’t take significant metal out simply rounds the hole. I have done it with my rear springs after finding it impossible to drive the new bushes with a drift. After reaming I put copper grease in and the bushes fitted easier. They were still nice and tight to drive. It’s just a once or twice pass not suggesting you take loads of metal. You could do the same with a file cept the reamer ensures it’s round.

I don't think you need to worry about ovality. The thing is that it could only happen if the bush was completely shot and metal to metal contact had taken place over a long period of time. In fitting new bushes, preparation is key: Carefully remove burrs and lumps with an appropriate tool and polish the hole with a rotary wire brush or a flap-wheel. Avoid making the hole too big, just remove imperfections. Grind a chamfer on the edge of the new bush and make sure it is started in the hole nice and straight before you put too much pressure on it. Good idea to apply a light film of grease inside the hole as well. I like molybdenum disulphide grease in this application.

'I never hit them, only pull using a stud and some large sockets and bits of tube. M12 stud fits through a 1/2 drive socket which makes life easy. Get high tensile stud and a long nut as well as a couple of standard nuts. you can lock to std nuts together and turn the long nut (stud joiner).

rob1miles said:

'I never hit them, only pull using a stud and some large sockets and bits of tube. M12 stud fits through a 1/2 drive socket which makes life easy. Get high tensile stud and a long nut as well as a couple of standard nuts. you can lock to std nuts together and turn the long nut (stud joiner).

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Quite right, never submit to the temptation to use a hammer except perhaps to carefully tap straight a bush which has entered crooked.

I'm just about to do my front chassis bushes as well, but do you actually need to remove the metal casing of the bush if I want to use polybushes, would they slide into the existing sleeve if the old rubber was burned out.
Just wondering....

No whole old bush needs removing.

Yes it has just occurred to me what a stupid ********dy question....

I've changed most on my 1970 series and its on its orginal unrestored chassis and they all came out ok. I used studding, sockets and large washers and all of them shifted. OK they took some force and a couple had to be jacked all the way with a long socket bar, but they moved and left the holes with now fuss or damage. The biggest issue I found was getitng the socket and tube sizes just right to press on the outer sleeve and just on the chassis where it is reinforced by the tube so its not crushed. I used a stud joiner so there's more thread, plenty fo grease, a deep socket and an exstension to get beside the body then I could crank away on a 3ft breaker bar. I did both sides on the rear in about 90 mins without jacking it up once i got the assembly of sockets, tubes and stud sorted, that was the longest part.

I will order some high tensile threaded bar and some nuts and washers. I will then have to play around and see what sockets I've got, hopefully I will have some old ones that are the right size.

I went to our local fastner suppliers and got the lot fo a couple of £. Get some thick square washers too.

An old screw jack threaded section is good for this job as the thread does not deform like studding.

After all this buggering about with studding, washers sockets etc is it not easier to drill through the rubber, hand saw round the inner tube, cut through then chisel off the the outer?

Not tried either approach yet so dunno!