Suspected IRD issue. Someone tell me I'm wrong!

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Not gonna lie, this was on my mind. I'm happy 2wd for the moment, but I definitely want and oftentimes need, 4wd. I've found a used diff off an 80k mile td4 that's in my price range so I'm going to have a look at that option first.
 
Ah well, at least you have a diagnosis. Two odd things:

1. Why could the hubs be turned once the drums were off? Perhaps the debris in the diff was floating around and causing an intermittent fault.

2. Normally with seized brakes, the wheel is locked solid (obviously). But with a diff problem you'd expect to be able to move the wheel a little by hand easily, while the wear/slack/backlash is taken up in the driveshaft and pinions etc., THEN encounter the seizure.

Looking forward to seeing some post-mortem pics of the diff (hint, hint!)

That's exactly why I said diff first and foremost, you Jack it up and have a few degrees of rotation on seized wheels before they lock. Plus, the drums come off too easy for brake lock.
 
I feel for you - having a difficult to diagnose problem is a bugger.

It does seam strange that the power of the motor can't turn the wheels - but you can. Not saying you got it wrong - as you're the one with the car and you can see what's happening - just strange... so would imply that what ever the problem is, manifests itself when the car's on the ground.

For both wheels to have the same issue, you do have to think that its very unlikely that both would suffer the same fault at the same time, so therefore neither has a problem and it must be something else common to both wheels. That would point to the diff - maybe when you turn 1 wheel the diff will turn what ever ain't broke, but when 2 wheels (try to) turn (ie by the car rolling) it jams up.

The brake system is also 'common'. The hydraulics are on separate feeds and each shares a front brake - so you'd think that would rule them out - which would leave the handbrake. After freeing up the brakes - did you then apply the hand brake before then releasing it to drive off?

I'd be careful driving the car without brake shoes - you have to stop the car somehow - which can only be the brakes and I think you'd pop the cylinders without the shoes there.

Similarly, don't be tempted to drive the car without the drive shafts in place - eg to take the diff out of the equation - the hubs can/will fall apart. Might be an idea to remove the diff though and suspend the shafts on bungey cords or something to see how it goes - I don't know if this is possible - or just get a cheap diff from a breakers if you can find one.

Bugger - that'll teach me not to start a reply and leave it for a while before coming back!

Don't worry, that's a hell of a reply to write in one go! :)
 
If money is tight and you are happy enough with 2wd for the meantime, remove the rear driveshafts. Split the outer CV joints and refit these in the rear hubs to hold the bearings together. The car will now be fine to drive.

ABS light on will be from messing with fuses and unplugging things. Once its driveable this should go out by itself after half a mile or so.

This ^^^^
I'd do the exact thing if money was tight. I'd remove the diff at the same time for investigation of the problem too.
 
Hey MoominTD4, bad news, really sorry to hear that. I feel your pain.... Just bought a freelander with a known IRD issue (in Portugal so body / suspension / etc etc is perfect due to lack of salt) - So far, recon IRD, VCU and bearings - now a darn small whine from DIFF so having that rebuilt ... probably be gearbox next.
Hopefully a second hand diff and a recon VCU will sort you out back to A1 !. Dont be tempted to reuse the VCU - even for a short time.
 
New diff off an 85k mile car is paid for and being picked up tomorrow! Yay!
I should hopefully get that on on Sunday and in the meantime get on to sorting a VCU. The sooner it's back to 4wd the better.
Me and the Mrs are saving for a house, after this happened I thought about selling the car once the diff was on, getting what I could for it, buying a normal boring car to do work and back and putting any excess cash into savings.
I think I'd have been more miserable than if I carry on on the bus.
Plus, if I sell mine then my dad's freelander will get lonely and we can't have that.
 
Ok time for an update, sorry it's been so long coming, but I've been working away for a few days.

Anywho, the car is running fine now and it turned out to be the brakes after all.

I don't know how I missed it because I'd had the shoe assemblies off, albeit all in one unit, I'd tried to drive it with the handbrake cables off and had no joy, however, when my dad came round to help fit the new diff, we got as far as popping the drive shafts out and while I was underneath guiding the splines to a safe area my dad tried turning the drum, it didn't turn.
We took the drum off because at this point it was obvious I'd got it wrong, and while we were doing a piece by piece analysis of the shoe assemblies my dad noticed the cam on the bottom shoe which the handbrake cable connects to was stuck in a weird position.
Turns out it had popped out of its hole and got itself wedged in the opening of the shoe so it was stuck in the handbrake 'on' position. A swift tap with a hammer from dad and it popped back in, we tested the cable for any seizure and the shoes for free movement and the cylinders for full range of motion and they were all fine.

We put everything back together and it drove.
Consequently the prop is back on and the car is running exactly as it should, some axle deep mud yesterday proved that.

I don't know how I missed it, but having a different (more experienced) pair of eyes and some daylight helped.
What we did notice is that when the handbrake cable was off, even pressing the brakes would cause them to jam on, we think it's because the whole shoe assembly would move because of this one stuck little arm.
When I say stuck, I mean stuck too, this thing didn't even release when I had the shoes off on the floor. Also, because I was working on a hill and in the dark every time I was working on it, I had to press the brakes, there was no way of getting the car out of gear to start it up without it rolling off and there was too much traffic and too close to neighbours cars to start it rolling then crack the engine etc.

The two things I can't understand is why at one point both back wheels were locked and why it did this in the first place while the car was on the move.

I opened up the o/s drum to check all was happy there and for reference and that's all fine.

So yeah, I now have a really nice diff sat in my shed. If anyone knows anyone who's after one then point them at me as I'd really like my £80 back!

I know I maybe stupid enough to make this mistake, but I'm not stupid enough to not admit when I'm wrong. I'm just glad my dad spotted it when he did as it's saved me the cost of a vcu too.

Oh and I was looking though the RAVE manual and noticed all the pdfs were daft names so I named them all properly and got rid of the cheap interface so now I just have the RAVE manual extracted as pdfs by vehicle that you can put on your phone without the installer etc. (providing your phone lets you view pdfs)
I tried to put it them in a post on the forum, but they're still a little too big to upload. Let me know if you want 'em

The things you do when your car is busted eh...

Anyway, thanks for the help folks. This was a confusing one!

Peace out
 
I'd love to be able use RAVE on my phone. Sadly I'm a no good at making PDF's open to all devices :(
Glad your brakes are sorted and it wasn't something more serious.
 
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