Sudden bleedin battery death?

1992lse said:

why cant the sparky move the ECU for you so you can fit a proper battery?

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He has suggested moving it a little bit since it's only held in with a bit of meccano, but the harness to it will be the main limiting factor.

I can't actually see any other handy space in the engine compartment that will accomodate it anyway so I think we'll only be able to shuffle it along a bit.

Ah well. I'll just have to see what he comes up with. It's more fun than being at work anyway. Think I'll do some diy while I'm waiting and try and reseal the front door...

Thanks for all the advice guys.

Guy

Ok, well it seems to be fixed. He found a battery that fits, but I'm not very happy with it as it's a weedy 70A/h one and it's non sealed which means I'm likely to get acid spilling onto the air suspension pipe when I go offroading so need to find a better one in slow time.

My battery clamp is completey missing and I'm trying to work out how it's supposed to work. From pictures, I can tell the front of the clamp bolts onto the slam panel, but how does the back of it work?

Guy

Kooky guy, glad to hear you've got it going again.Your battery clamp is held at the rear by a threaded bar with nuts and as you said the front bolts onto slam panel,i've enclosed pictures showing the bar at the rear and how your positive lead should route.

Just to add my 10 pence worth i have a 4.6 running lpg the ecu is fitted to the rear of the standard ecu box, plenty of room there. but my point is i was told by my local RR specialist never to jump start an LPG ecu as they are famous for blowing when this is done. Dont know how true this is but might be worth leeping it in mind

discomalc said:

Just to add my 10 pence worth i have a 4.6 running lpg the ecu is fitted to the rear of the standard ecu box, plenty of room there. but my point is i was told by my local RR specialist never to jump start an LPG ecu as they are famous for blowing when this is done. Dont know how true this is but might be worth leeping it in mind

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Jump starting Rangies is generally not viewed as a good idea due to the electronics popping their clogs when you do so. I've however used one of those booster jump start packs several times with no problems over the years.
I've always done as I described earlier in this thread and not locked the car on the fob if I was going to leave it standing for a while. Even though the passive immobiliser kicks in, it drains far less power from the battery and if you unlock it in the door again, it doesn't seem to throw up a lock out code, even if the battery has stood a few weeks without starting. I have also changed batteries this way and not had the dreaded lock out - only triggered it once, the first time the battery ran flat, years ago, before I started locking the Rangie up on the door if going to be parked up a few weeks. Works for me

I've never had a problem getting a battery - even Halfrauds keep the right size if you're desperate, and all our local motor factors seem to as well.

i'm pretty sure cables are available ready made from motorist diy places.

most fittings are crimp on or have a couple of screws to secure em!

DM68 said:

Kooky guy, glad to hear you've got it going again.Your battery clamp is held at the rear by a threaded bar with nuts and as you said the front bolts onto slam panel,i've enclosed pictures showing the bar at the rear and how your positive lead should route.

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Thanks for the photos - they're very helpful. How does the threaded bar attach at the bottom of the battery box?

I'll have to have a think about relocating the lpg ecu as it's proving difficult to find a battery to fit the space that's left. I have found a couple and will get round to replacing it again once I've sorted my vibration problems out.

Thanks all

Guy

just thought id use this tread to see if any one has any ideas on my battery drain fault, just recently fitted a new engine previous to this battery only gone flat on me once, the past 3 days eveytime ive parked it up for the night come to it in the morning and its flat, battery only reading about 8 volts but fine when driving about all day, i diconnected the coax ariel from the rf antenna and the single wire going to it, run the car around town for an hour or so and left the car to stand with 12.4 volts in it came out to it 4 hours later and it was completely flat again not even any faint dash lights so took the battery off and took it to the local garage to be tested and there saying the battery is in fully working order, my key fob doesnt work with the remote never has done since ive had it all ways used the door lock the occasional time getting into the car and switching the ignition on i get a message saying "alarm fault" not sure if this has any thing to do with the drainage,?????