Disco 2 Stuck clutch/slave cylinder

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Royston 90

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So after having not moved my Discovery on the drive for a month (away camping for fortnight & replacing the lower steering column uj & adjusting steering box etc ) I went to take it for the mot. I had gone to start it the other day & run it all fine, but never took it for a drive & discovered this morning the pedal was stuck solid. I had removed the master cylinder & popped the pin out from the pedal to make access easier when doing the steering column. Anyway with a bit of force I pushed it down & then with it in gear released the pedal & stalled it. The clutch pedal still feels a little stiff/graunchy & I had to leave for work. What is the consensus here ? do you think it is slave cylinder or clutch ? I have ordered another endoscope camera as I can`t find my other one & will remove slave later to have a peek. I replaced the whole clutch/flywheel HD fork etc 5 years ago & have not done alot of miles in that time with it.
 
Hi, undo the bleed nipple and if the pedal drops the problem is beyond the slave in the clutch. If it's still solid undo the feed pipe at the slave, if it drops the slave is stuck, if still solid the problem is the master or clogged pipe(just dont release the pedal before you tighten the nipple or pipe back)
 
Right time to resurrect this thread. Unfortunately due to my mother being in hospital & other things needing my attention I left the Disco sitting on the driveway. I have decided I need to turn my attention to it & have this weekend gone done what sierraferry suggested & undone the bleed nipple & pedal goes to the floor easily. Next I undone the union & the pedal was then easily pushed to the floor. I also removed it from bell housing & had friend push the pedal & it freely travels in/out & no signs of a leak. Also when pressing on brake pedal with engine off & then starting engine up, I can feel the pedal move down slightly so I believe the brake servo is working. How should I go about fault finding my problem now ? I can`t see any other signs of leaks around master cylinder, but both the clutch & brake pedal feel sloppy initially then hard. I can select gear & drive it, but it`s still not right. I also bled the clutch through both with a helper & with the one man brake bleed kits, but that hasn`t helped.
 
So you mixed up things big time in this post, it was about a stuck solid clutch pedal in the first post and now it's a mixage of clutch and brake issues which makes no sense to me especially that it's nothing about the initial problem
 
Sorry I ommitted the part about the brake pedal being stiff too.. Both seemed fine prior to the clutch pedal being stuck solid. I presume this was due to plates sticking to the flywheel. Anyway I forced the clutch pedal down & it broke free. Now the clutch pedal is loose on first part of travel, before going firm. The brake pedal also seems to have a bit of free play before being hard to press.
 
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Royston 90 said:
Sorry I ommitted the part about the brake pedal being stiff too.. Both seemed fine prior to the clutch pedal being stuck solid. I presume this was due to plates sticking to the flywheel. Anyway I forced the clutch pedal down & it broke free. Now the clutch pedal is loose on first part of travel, before going firm. The brake pedal also seems o have a but of free play before being hard to press.
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Move to harpenden and it will be fixed.
Other than that take off the clutch plate cover on the pedle box and adjust the bolt for the preload on the peddle. Easy job
 
Bollix said:
Move to harpenden and it will be fixed.
Other than that take off the clutch plate cover on the pedle box and adjust the bolt for the preload on the peddle. Easy job
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Is that cos it will be stolen in Harpenden :rolleyes: I have family out that way. I didn`t notice a bolt on pedal when I disconnected it. I had to remove it when I unbolted the M/c to make it easier to remove the steering shaft as I had to replace a lower steering column uj & removed the steering box to clean & adjust it at the same time.
 
On the clutch box that the cylinder bolts to there should be a plate on the top. Remove the plate and in there there should be an adjustable rod that goes into the clutch master...
 
Bollix said:
On the clutch box that the cylinder bolts to there should be a plate on the top. Remove the plate and in there there should be an adjustable rod that goes into the clutch master...
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I`ll take a look, most likely it will be mainly at weekend as it`s dark by the time i`m home & I have kids after school clubs etc. I was wondering if I had damaged something that affected both the brake & clutch, when I forced the clutch pedal down. I was going to take it for it`s M..OT so just tried forcing it & then realised it wasn`t working as it should so abandoned taking it for it`s M.O.T
 
sierrafery said:
Untill then stick the clutch pedal to the floor with a piece of wood or something and let it so over night maybe it helps
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I did that on friday night whilst I had it on ramps, to gain access to slave cylinder. Do you think I have damaged the master cylinder seals by forcing it ? I think i`m correct in saying the brake & clutch are on same system ?
 
Royston 90 said:
I did that on friday night whilst I had it on ramps, to gain access to slave cylinder. Do you think I have damaged the master cylinder seals by forcing it ? I think i`m correct in saying the brake & clutch are on same system ?
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As long as it's all in place that procedure would not hurt but if you removed the slave and pushed the pedal that way with bleeder closed then both cylinders can get hurt cos there is a wear inside the cylinders along the normal travel but once the rod is released the travel gets longer and the seals can be damaged by the edge at the end of the internal wear if you see what i mean and it becomes unbleadable after that...happened tome. The brakes and clutch are sharing only the reservoir otherwise they are independent
 
sierrafery said:
As long as it's all in place that procedure would not hurt but if you removed the slave and pushed the pedal that way with bleeder closed then both cylinders can get hurt cos there is a wear inside the cylinders along the normal travel but once the rod is released the travel gets longer and the seals can be damaged by the edge at the end of the internal wear if you see what i mean and it becomes unbleadable after that...happened tome. The brakes and clutch are sharing only the reservoir otherwise they are independent
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When I jumped in to take it for it`s m.o.t, I started it up & found the clutch stuck solid. I then forced the pedal down to see if I could free it & take it for it`s m.o.t. It wasn`t till I drove it, & went to brake that I also noticed the brake pedal was not working as it should. I never tried pushing down on pedal with bleed nipple closed. I removed the slave cylinder from bell housing to check it wasn`t leaking & that it travelled freely in & out of the cylinder. So is it coincidence that both the pedals played up after stuck clutch, or do I now need to replace both clutch & brake master cylinder ?
 
Just to update in case it helps others in future to solve their problems. My brake pedal problem was due to a vac pipe I had dislodged whilst working on steering column area. On the pipe to the brake servo there is another vac pipe that T`s off to another block & I had dislodged the end off there, so I wasn`t getting the full vac pressure to the servo. As for the clutch, I found this to be the rod from the clutch pedal to the master cylinder. When I had forced the pedal to free the clutch off, I had bent the rod that connects to the pedal. So lesson learnt, but maybe this will help others in future find their problems.
 
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