sounds like the treatment I got so I am hoping it will sort itself out with no problems.
Strange clutch behaviour.
- Thread starter dag019
- Start date
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Well having acquired an assistant and bled and rebled the clutch is still dragging and not fully disengaging. i adjusted the pedal/master as per the book and then deliberately miss adjusted it to give as large a stroke as possible and no difference the clucth will not fully disengage. I am assuming that as I have now replaced all of the hydraulic side of the system the only option I have now is to split the box and replace replace the clutch/mechanism itself. My only worry with that is that I do not find anything obviously wrong and risk replacing it all and then being in the same positions in a weeks time with everything being new. Does anyone have any other suggestions?
Flossie
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Long shot but I've seen it on another non landy car. Bell housing bolts came loose and the box seperated from the block slightly causing drag when the pedal was pressed. Could also try a spacer (M6 nut?) Between the slave piston and pushrod.
I will check the belhousing bolts in the morning although did not notice a gap when working on things today.
Although the spacer should work in theory is that not just masking the problem as it was working fine before, something changed, meaning it was not and now the new cylinder is giving the same symptoms as the old one? If the old one was working fine and it was just an issue with the new one I would be more inclined to try the spacer to rectify.
Flossie
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I had this issue after changing the slave on my Renault van, confused the hell out of me then I noticed the piston on the aftermarket slave didn't protrude as much as the original, forget what I did, either a spacer or I welded an extension to the pushrod and that fixed it.
But yes, if the thrust bearing or fork is worn it's just masking the fault.
That is my worry as it started with the old cylinder. The cylinders are trw so should be decent and the one is is replacing is also a trw so they should be identical. I have resigned myself to splitting the box. It should not be the fork as that has the hd plate on the back. But I guess the slipper pad prongs could be worn.
I think I asked already, but do you have a damper fitted? Worth trying with it bypassed if you do before stripping it.
I have seen a release bearing destroyed in much shorter time but I see you have a HD one fitted so should be OK as long as its an all metal one. The plastic ones melt easily
I have seen a release bearing destroyed in much shorter time but I see you have a HD one fitted so should be OK as long as its an all metal one. The plastic ones melt easily
tottot
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I changed the clutch of my 90 in the summer of 2018 even though it was still working because of the mileage and because it felt sort of stiff and " and as you say "dragged " some.
Turned out that one of the pads on the fork [ a heavy duty item ] had taken a walk. By the look the rivet that held the pad to the fork had come loose in its hole which had then worn larger until it fell out. As a result the release bearing was only being pressed on one side causing drag.
On the replacement I welded the pins in place.
Turned out that one of the pads on the fork [ a heavy duty item ] had taken a walk. By the look the rivet that held the pad to the fork had come loose in its hole which had then worn larger until it fell out. As a result the release bearing was only being pressed on one side causing drag.
On the replacement I welded the pins in place.
What do you mean by a damper in this context? the fact I a unsure what you are referring to probably means I do not have one, but better to check.
I have had a similar failure previously where one of the pads split in two across the hole causing the same issue. When this happened with mine it just made the clutch very stiff to operate but did not cause it to not fully disengage. the fact that yours did gives me hope that I will not be splitting the box in vain.
tottot
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I have wondered if it would be possible to take a look inside the clutch housing with a borescope.
Found the source of the problem. After splitting the gearbox found this intially where cover plate spring fingers were not even. the photo makes it look far better than it actually was, the lower three finger were significantly out of line:
and then found the cause when the cover was removed. Spot the difference:
and then found the cause when the cover was removed. Spot the difference:
Flossie
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Another valeo
Mine exploded with no warning.
Mine exploded with no warning.
Shimsteriom
Master Procrastinator
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After how many miles?
Flossie
Well-Known Member
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- 11,001
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- Shropshire
Around 30k.
