Sting Ray's '89 90 - Complete Restoration

Paul D · Sep 1, 2017

The best thing about the needle gun, and some say the worst, is that it will take crap metalwork off too, I mean big style, poking holes everywhere .. but this is just an opportunity to fix it properly ..

Sting Ray · Sep 2, 2017

Sting Ray · Sep 2, 2017

Sting Ray · Sep 2, 2017

Paul D said:
The best thing about the needle gun, and some say the worst, is that it will take crap metalwork off too, I mean big style, poking holes everywhere .. but this is just an opportunity to fix it properly ..

I've seen them used on warships - they often found weak spots!

Sting Ray · Sep 12, 2017

A little more disassembly progress:

rob_bell · Sep 12, 2017

Is that VW Passion wagon and MX-5 yours too?

Landy is coming apart nicely

Sting Ray · Sep 14, 2017

Fortunately not! I haven't enough time for those wrecks as well as my own

I took yesterday off work so that I could carry on with the strip down, and bearing in mind that I won't be able to work on the vehicle this weekend as I'll be at the Show.

The Bulkhead was worse than I thought - lower corner on the offisde, where it attaches to the chassis simply came off in my hands once the large bolt was undone. As you can see from the pictures, the nearside front outrigger is in a tragic state too!

raywin · Sep 14, 2017

Blimey that bulkhead is ... now whats the technical term

Shagged
Looks like the rust advancement laboratory

Sting Ray · Sep 15, 2017

Everything that was steel is now riddled with the stuff. Ah well, it'll be less to cut out with the plasma cutter before lobbing it in the skip.

Sting Ray · Sep 16, 2017

Decided to go for a Utility configuration, having purchased a pair of slightly poorly B posts from Nene this afternoon. Repair sections from YRM will sort them out no problem. I've no intention of fitting seat boxes in the rear though, so will (evetually) look at what panels need to be fabricated to provide additional storage behind the seats. Thinking that a water tank might be a good idea.

Sting Ray · Sep 20, 2017

Gearbox and Transfer Box are now out. All being well, the axles will be off on Friday afternoon, and what's left of the chassis in the skip.

https://postimg.org/image/9vowkkkv9/]

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Sting Ray · Sep 21, 2017

I started to remove the axles from the chassis after work yesterday. There are some big bloody nuts and bolts!!! Lots of them have woxoyl on them as well, which makes removal rather challenging, especially when the battery on your impact gun runs out and it’s back to the ol’ ½” ratchet!

Not sure how to support the chassis when the axles are ready to come off - will probably let it drop onto some blocks or bits of scrap.

Sting Ray · Sep 23, 2017

The axles were removed on Friday afternoon, and the chassis was promptly condemned to the skip along with the shocks and springs.

I drained 30 litres of diesel out of the tank, which I used as a way of saying thanks to the skip owner, who also used his forklift to get it in there.

Today I set about splitting the front axle into its constituent components - axle grease is bloody gopping!

I will probably fit heavy duty cranked radius arms etc as I'll be going for a 2" lift and will need components that can withstand the rough environment that the vehicle will be used in. The standard items will be flogged on here or ebay.

Some really good news is that I've secured the premises to rebuild the vehicle - hurrah!!! There's no heating, but I'll just have to brave the cold as I did last year when renovating my motorbike under a gazebo :-D

Sting Ray · Sep 23, 2017

Sting Ray · Sep 25, 2017

So I've got a Salisbury drum setup in the rear, and will keep that, but I'm not 100% sure about what to do with the front. I won't be needing lockers (famous last words), but have heard conflicting information about whether the 24 spline setup is better or not. Apparently Ashcroft have said the torque required to break the 24 setup is nigh on the same as the 10 spline arrangement. Any thoughts on this? I would like a resilient setup, but don't intend doing anything like the winch challenge, just driving on 'robust' terrain.

I'm assuming the front axle casings are the same, which would allow me to refurb this whilst deliberating what to do/waiting for parts to turn up.

The rear will simply get a good clean (inside and out) and lick of paint, although I should probably think about getting a Salisbury with disc brakes, or doing the conversion myself, but not sure if the difference is worth it...

Sting Ray · Sep 25, 2017

Just found these, which would potentially greatly aid the fitting of discs and calipers to the Salisbury:

http://www.red-winches.com/products/rear-axle-disc-brake-conversion-lr/109/

I've messaged them to see if they are approprite for my application.

Ian Maycock · Sep 26, 2017

I made my own spacer's when I converted my Salisbury axle from drums to discs got a write up which someone did somewhere if your interested .

Sting Ray · Sep 27, 2017

Ian Maycock said:
I made my own spacer's when I converted my Salisbury axle from drums to discs got a write up which someone did somewhere if your interested .

Thanks - I found a thread where someone did the very same thing and have bookmarked it for the future.

Mulcaster1 · Sep 27, 2017

good effort so far! that's a whole box of bits to assemble now! at least you can imrove it along the way.

Sting Ray · Sep 27, 2017

Thanks. I have moved most of what's left into my mate's workshop for now. I hope I remember what goes where during the rebuild!

Sting Ray's '89 90 - Complete Restoration

Old, nackered 'n broke, but the Landy is fine . :)

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