Still havent fixed the brakes...

The brake pedel needs to be pushed nearly half way befor the brakes kick in, but if pumped, they will work from the top. it failed its mot on "not enough reserve movment" and the front pads below 1.5 mm, when they all have over 5mm .

Could this be a master cylinder problem? I need to do an online order for some pads, but there not gona fix this problem. Any ideas?

Rich.

woods767 said:

The brake pedel needs to be pushed nearly half way befor the brakes kick in, but if pumped, they will work from the top. it failed its mot on "not enough reserve movment" and the front pads below 1.5 mm, when they all have over 5mm .

Could this be a master cylinder problem? I need to do an online order for some pads, but there not gona fix this problem. Any ideas?

Rich.

Click to expand...

are you sure you're not looking at the thickness of the pad as a whole? the friction material is attached to a chunk of metal around 5mm thick

Very sure. Dont look far of new to be fair. Im puttin in an order for a new master cylinder and new pads anyway, they wont pass my second try if i go in there with an attitude.

Attached photos of caliper. Also a couple for BUSTER!, look what i had to do all over again after it came up on the MOT . Dident mess about this time, all new bits, and note the bungey cord holdin the caliper to the radius arm.

Not makin that mistake twice...

woods767 said:

Attached photos of caliper. Also a couple for BUSTER!, look what i had to do all over again after it came up on the MOT . Dident mess about this time, all new bits, and note the bungey cord holdin the caliper to the radius arm.

Not makin that mistake twice...

Click to expand...

That's better, and ah bet ye were a lot quicker doin' this time round anaw woody

Quick question for yer, do you know when the chassis number "HA901219" was? just with regards to my master cylinder order.

Thanks.

woods767 said:

Quick question for yer, do you know when the chassis number "HA901219" was? just with regards to my master cylinder order.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

If ye mean yer VIN number then ah reckon it should be 1990-1991. It might be worth tryin' tae 'google' it to make sure

woods, how much will the garage charge for your re-test cos ive just seen a memo at work saying that a garage at work will discount us so a full test would be 35 rather than 50. Just something for you to think about.

your new swivel housing looks all shiney and new - you can do mine when if i ever need it done

dont help yu - but place in Basingstoke does full MOT's for £30.

That sounds to me like the drums at the back need adjusting... It does have rear drums, right?

bustersbus said:

If ye mean yer VIN number then ah reckon it should be 1990-1991. It might be worth tryin' tae 'google' it to make sure

Click to expand...

Thanks, think your right, looks like the same bit as far as i can tell.

discojamz said:

woods, how much will the garage charge for your re-test cos ive just seen a memo at work saying that a garage at work will discount us so a full test would be 35 rather than 50. Just something for you to think about.

your new swivel housing looks all shiney and new - you can do mine when if i ever need it done

Click to expand...

Sounds good, im a bit past the re-test time period.

boydy1989 said:

That sounds to me like the drums at the back need adjusting... It does have rear drums, right?

Click to expand...

Yes, and yes they probaly do. Wont cause it to stick though, and i cant find the motivation to jack it up and take off the back wheels, specialy since ive just done that to bleed them. Will do them when i have to re-bleed it all for the new master cylinder.

Stick? where are they sticking?

What it makes them do is where you push the pedal almost to the floor, then reapply and the brakes bite right at the top of the pedal.

Its really easy to adjust too - fack up back corner, with wheels chocked and handbrake off, spin wheel and turn the head on the backplate until the wheel locks. Then back it off a bit until it spins freely without binding. Thats it!

Made a huge difference to my brakes.

Thanks will do that. When i say they stick, i mean when i brake hard, I take my foot off the pedel and the pedel takes a second or so to come back up.

Is the spring on the pedal OK?

Yea its fine, its seems to be som kind of vacume problem. Just to note; ive ajusted my drums, and its made no difference. Well there is one difference, my brake warning light has started coming on!

How has that caused that? Its obviously to do with the current problem, what is the warning light even attached too? Ive not found it on the discs or the master cylinder. What does it warn of?

The brake warning light is connected to the fluid level. Check it! the switch may be jamming.

Fluid level? It toped right up! Hmm.... Well, im gona fit the new front pads, and new master cylinder, the parts have come. Ill then bleed it all out, re-ajust the rear drums, then cry when its the same afterwards.

I think the warning light is assosiated with how far the pedel is depressed, theres nothing on the master cylinder. Changed that, and the front pads, and it is still the same. So i have a spair master cylinder if anyone needs one.

the warning light is to do with the fluid level. look on the reservoir and there are 2 wires on the cap. Try taking them off and seeing what happens. then try connecting them to each other. If the lights goes on and off, then your fluid level switch is buggered.

not at work today then rich?

There are no wires on the dam master cylinder! Including the reservoir! Im quite sure theres a micro switch on the pedel past a certian travel. Or the vacume rig...which im begining to suspect is buggered.

Nope, not today, working wed, thurs, fri and sat.