Next thing is to get the relay secured in the vice. You need a 19mm spacer (bit of wood) placed inside.
Now that is a lot of spring to be compressed down into that relay. At this point I thought I might have bitten off more than I could chew. It was a bit late to be worrying though so it's time to break out the tool. I had a couple of practice goes before really going for it. When you're leaning over that spring at full compression knowing that if it gets loose it's really going to hurt it certainly focuses your attention.
When I got it locked in place I quickly stepped back and got out of it's way, still thinking it was somehow going to kill me. However it just sat there doing exactly what it was supposed to be doing. The next stage is probably even scarier. You have to put the split bushes in place, secure them with a jubilee clip. Two things to remember. Make the tool big enough to clear the bushes and position the jubilee clip towards the upper end of the bushes because in a minute you're going to have to tap that bush down into the relay so you better have enough room to get it started.
Also don't forget the washer at either end of the spring. Would be very easy to do and really annoying. Tap the shaft along with the bushes steadily down into the relay and you can get rid of the jubilee clip and the spring is contained and can't go anywhere.
New seals in the end caps. I even had to have a new bottom cap as it must have had a whack at some point in the past and was damaged. I thought I had done a good job of these but they both leaked. Not where the shaft passes through but around where they seat in the caps. So out they came again and I put a bit of RTV silicone in and then bedded the seal into the silicone. That did the trick.
So that should be it. I put the top steering arm on and tested it with the spring balance and it's way too tight. Now the manual says that this can happen and all you have to do it take each cap off, press the bushes in a little bit and get some oil between them and the shaft. That's a good plan except to press those bushes in you would have to be a good seal stronger than me. I therefore had to improvise something.
I filled the relay with oil and used that huge bar to move the bushes allowing the oil to get all round. I wonder if it would have been better to soak those bushes in oil overnight before fitting them. Despite everything I tried the relay is still very stiff. The resistance is different as you rotate the shaft through a full turn. The relay only ever partially rotates. It never turns a full 365 degrees. In fact it's probably only about 100 degrees. I'm going to position the best 100 or so degrees of resistance where it will move to hopefully give the best steering feel.
Time to refit it with plenty of copper grease.
So that's it. I'm pleased to say that it doesn't leak from the bottom at all. But it still has to prove it's a Land Rover so it actually leaks a bit from the top. That is special Land Rover leaking. It can leak against gravity.
Since posting this i've learned (many thanks to @Blackburn ) that the bolts in the last picture are the wrong way round. Bolts should go in from the rear so that the nuts are nearest the front of the vehicle. Apparently if you put them in the way I have you can't get them out later without first removing the front panel. Beware. 
