LincolnSteve
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A touch of the grinder had it cracked and off without damaging the shaft any further.
It cleaned up a bit and the new bearing fits ok.
Steve's unexpected Series 3 rebuild.
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A touch of the grinder had it cracked and off without damaging the shaft any further.
It cleaned up a bit and the new bearing fits ok.
LincolnSteve
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Next it's time to get that bearing fixed into place. The old one was not keen to come out.
Now I can't say that none of that damage is down to me but I swear that most of it was pre-existing. Anyway out it came.
When it came to fitting the new one I didn't fancy my chances. This seems to be one of those jobs that hardly ever goes smoothly and I have read a lot about problems with the bearings being the wrong size. Because of this I put the bearing in the freezer to try to shrink it down a bit. I gave the inside if the tube a good coating of copper grease and luckily I found a bit of tube that was bob on the correct size for tapping on the outer race of the bearing and drifting it in. For once things went smoothly.
Now I can't say that none of that damage is down to me but I swear that most of it was pre-existing. Anyway out it came.
When it came to fitting the new one I didn't fancy my chances. This seems to be one of those jobs that hardly ever goes smoothly and I have read a lot about problems with the bearings being the wrong size. Because of this I put the bearing in the freezer to try to shrink it down a bit. I gave the inside if the tube a good coating of copper grease and luckily I found a bit of tube that was bob on the correct size for tapping on the outer race of the bearing and drifting it in. For once things went smoothly.
If you had pushed it off the bridge you'd have missed out on all of this lovelly tinkering - I don't think you'd have had such a "life improving experience"!
The wear you have is too much!
I think you will be really irritated with the feel of the steering box if you put it back together again.
The pitted surfaces will give an amplified graunchy feel to the steering box. I imagine it will drive you nuts. This kind of thing is often called "character" - it will just get worse - allowing new bearings to run on those surfaces will make more damage.
The only "option" for this steering box - if you really have to keep it - is to adjust it so there is as little contact on the bearing surfaces as possible. This will make the steering feel very vague. Filling it with increasingly viscous greases will be fun until you discover water pump grease (which will probably also not be thick enough!)
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I've tried to repair surfaces like these with "modern" epoxy solutions. At a DIY level this is very hard to do as you ideally need the machining ability to cut the epoxy to match the bearing surface...
...if you have that you'd be better off welding in new metal and then machining (and then figuring out how on earth you are going to heat treat the surface)...
...I'm sorry about the negative vibes but I think new or good reconditioned is the only way.
(If I were to buy a "reconditioned" box I'd take it to bits to check for this kind of damage - not that I don't trust people - but)
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Forgot to say:-
If you want me to dig out the information on the bearing running surface epoxy stuff I used I will do so. It was 'king expensive - took a very long time to arrive (about 5 months I think - so it can't be used that frequently) - had a very short shelf life (about three months I think) - I think it was a Loctite product...
...if you've got to a stage where you can reassemble what you have do so with assembly oil and adjust as per the workshop manual and then see if you can feel anything. I bet you can.
If you want me to dig out the information on the bearing running surface epoxy stuff I used I will do so. It was 'king expensive - took a very long time to arrive (about 5 months I think - so it can't be used that frequently) - had a very short shelf life (about three months I think) - I think it was a Loctite product...
...if you've got to a stage where you can reassemble what you have do so with assembly oil and adjust as per the workshop manual and then see if you can feel anything. I bet you can.
LincolnSteve
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I appreciate what you are saying. Unfortunately the rest of the project is going to dictated by time and money. If parts are serviceable and it doesn't affect safety then it looks like they are going to have to be reused. If I can restore or improve something for a modest cost then I will. Anything that has to be replaced will be.
I will regret it. I already regret saving the chassis and not getting a galv one. I'm going to regret painting it with a brush and roller but if i'm ever going to finish there are going to have to be a lot of compromises and it will just have to be that I did the best job I could do under the circumstances.
I will regret it. I already regret saving the chassis and not getting a galv one. I'm going to regret painting it with a brush and roller but if i'm ever going to finish there are going to have to be a lot of compromises and it will just have to be that I did the best job I could do under the circumstances.
Mate - what ever gets you through the night [Good John Lennon song that!]
This is a forum - I'm giving advice with the intention of forewarning - you're a big boy who can make up his own mind. I don't want to come across as someone who is laying down "forum law" - if I do - sorry about that.
I appreciate there are always compromises and things that "would probably be done differently if they were to be done again". Been there - done it - should have bought the T shirt but I knew it would only p*** me off every time I looked in the mirror! (And by the way the chassis repair choice was most certainly the right one in my book - though after I've done mine I might feel differently about that...)
You're doing a great job - you're putting in a lot of effort - if regrets can be avoided or at least forewarned that's gorra be the best outcome eh?
I shouldn't have to say it - I'm sure you'll continue to update - but I for one am always interested to hear the opinions of others for compromises that get made.
LincolnSteve
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And any way, i'm probably going to win the lottery this weekend and when I do i'm funding all our restoration projects from here on. 
LincolnSteve
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We've touched on the emotions concerning compromise - I'm in a more frustrating situation.
I didn't manage to finish some crucial stuff before the cold weather set in. I did get glass and windows fitted so it is pretty much water tight (still need to finish off the doors so they open and close) but the floor is half done. To finish the floor I need to paint and glue - too cold for that - has been too flipping cold for nearly two months.
The (Epoxy) paint for the floor doesn't dry below ten degrees. Don't have a way of heating the building yet. Pain in the arse - massive delay - the weather just keeps getting worse - now we've got the sodding beast from the ****ting east again!
LincolnSteve
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That is very annoying. Great that it's mostly weather proof though. Just keep thinking about when it's done. You'll be sitting pretty then mate.
LincolnSteve
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Still not making any real progress. Just can't get any time. Here's what has been happening. I'll try to not put too much as it's a bit samey.
LincolnSteve
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I had a go at filling the pitting on the steering box with those brazing rods. Not much success. I couldn't get things hot enough so had to improvise a bit. In the end it sort of worked. It's certainly stuck and it's rock hard so I think it's doing some good.
Good to see some good come of those bloody welding rods Steve!
I too reached the conclusion that pre-warming is the key. Being single (now) I would have used an oven (if only it was working!) but I can see how partners might not be so keen on the overlapping venn diagram of garage and kitchen...
...I gave up with the HTS sticks for filling holes in Birmabright. Which sticks did you use here?
I'll be interested in seeing how the repair lasts - in particular if corrosion between the old and new occurs
I too reached the conclusion that pre-warming is the key. Being single (now) I would have used an oven (if only it was working!) but I can see how partners might not be so keen on the overlapping venn diagram of garage and kitchen...
...I gave up with the HTS sticks for filling holes in Birmabright. Which sticks did you use here?
I'll be interested in seeing how the repair lasts - in particular if corrosion between the old and new occurs
LincolnSteve
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They were durafix easyweld and there's nothing easy about them.
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Your fix explains what I have on an overdrive I came by not long ago. No idea if it's strong enough so was lucky to find a housing at a good price.They were durafix easyweld and there's nothing easy about them.
My own efforts with durafix came to nothing. I'd offered to stick a mate's pub's chairs back together with these magical sticks I'd bought. Got it melted, but just couldn't get enough heat into the thin tubes. Consequently no free drinks for me.
LincolnSteve
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A new steering box housing is going on my growing list of bits to get later. For now this one will do as i've got to crack on and get it back on the road.
auld duffer
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I have a couple of builder steering boxes can strip one for the casing if required .. happy to do that ,
LincolnSteve
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Thanks for the offer. Very kind of you. I'll see how this one holds out and keep you in mind.
