Hi. Sorry for not answering sooner. I've been really busy with boring, non land rover stuff.Fantastic work! Dare I ask about the cost to date? or is that something one does not add up.
That's food for thought. I will look into the compatibility of all the stuff. Thanks.I understand the desire for neat sharp corners in steel but if you look at how Land Rover made their corners you might relax your requirements a little!
I hope you persevere with your DIY folder after all that effort put into making it - but I can't recommend enough the vice mounted sheet metal banding jaws. They do require a decent large vice but that in itself is a fantastic addition to any workshop (if you don't have one).
As for the paint - rust killer {perhaps a primer} then top coat is all that is really needed. I might have misunderstood but the Bilt Hammer then etch primer then zinc primer in that order sounds like a bad idea to me. Is the etch primer a recommended layer from Bilt Hammer? A Zinc enriched coat on top of paint isn't really going to do much good: The Zinc (if you are going to use it) needs to do its sacrificial work by being next to metal. I'm worried that the Zinc coating isn't going to be stable when used as an intermediary layer...
@Stretch and @Disco1BFG I think you are right. This is from the Bilt Hamber website,
'hydrate 80 is an excellent base for a wide range of paint finishing systems. It is preferable but not essential to use a good quality primer before applying topcoats.
Due to the many types of paint formulations and curing processes test compatibility of products at small scale before use'.
It sounds like zinc primer would be wasted over the hydrate 80 as it has etched , primed and formed a protective coating already. Primer and top coats are ok as long as they are compatible and will just be a further barrier but any special anti corrosive properties won't make any difference.
@Stretch and @Disco1BFG I think you are right.
It's a never ending battle. No wonder the land rover community is addicted to galvanising everything. I think I'm going to be having nightmares about rust.Interesting. I also couldnt find much suggesting electrox was a good call for applying onto pitted and remaining rust too. In an ideal world you would get totally clean or hydrate 80 but in some places it's hard to do so. I was using electrox on all my chassis. However, I chose another rust stabalising coating half way through that would creep in and stick well to rust too at a far lesser price. Maybe electrox is rust stabilising but I was reading posts by a bh tech on another forum suggesting you needed to be near enough rust free prior to applying. Tis tricky. On another note the epoxy mastic coating they do is really tough!.
I have got some deox-c. It's so good it's almost witchcraft. Not tried the mastic though.Me? Right ?? .... had to happen sometime
Have you thought about using their epoxy mastic ??
https://www.bilthamber.com/paints-and-coatings/epoxy-mastic
I tend to use "ordinary" Tractol enamel on cleaned steel ... and have good results with it .. even on calipers and the like .... easy to re-coat too ...
Have you tried BH's Deox-C? it's blinking amazing stuff IMHO!
It's so good it's almost witchcraft
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